|
|
|
Hi all, Got brake work to do on my RRC, so I’m thinking of changing to silicon fluid at the same time, since I tow a lot, advantages of non hydroscopic etc Obviously the system has been filled with regular dot3/4 until now, and I’m aware you can’t mix, nuns & kittens etc So how clean is clean? Just drain and refill, or complete brake stripdown, callipers etc? Just how far do you have to go ? Tia
|
|
|
|
|
Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 767
Club RR Member Number: 12
|
|
|
Personally I wouldn't take the chance with changing over. Good quality (Motul, Castrol etc) fresh DOT 4 fluid should be fine, unless you are very heavily loaded and going down a lot of hills.
I have used MOTUL RBF 600 which is a DOT 4 racing fluid aimed at bikes and I have never had any brake fade with it, and I drive like an A-hole.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I changed to silicon on all my cars when i rebuild the brakes and had all parts dismantled to change the seals so i cannot help you if a change works without dismantling. I bought some spray cans of brake cleaner for 1 car to flush the brake pipes. The other 2 cars were totally restored so got new brake lines Peter
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I use a air feed / one man brake bleed system to drive everything out of the braking circuit via the bleed nipples - nothing then stopping you from pushing a dose of brake cleaner through the system using the same method - with brake cleaner being solvent based hence evaporating to vaper I then leave it overnight before using the brake bleeder again to allow low volume air pressure through the system to the nipples and ensure that the circuit is dry - essentially just as you would when bleeding the brakes - then bleed the system with DOT 5 silicone - never had a issue with any of the 20+ cars / restorations that I have utilised this method on
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 28, 2020 8:32:54 GMT by Deleted
|
|
|
|
|
Don't waste time or money changing to silicon, if you do you should then change it yearly. it's not cheap and you'd be better using Dot5.1 which will mix with the Dot3/4 without cleaning the system out and is a similar price as Dot 3/4. If you have working brakes on your trailer and you drive appropriately your brakes shouldn't get any hotter than when not towing.
|
|
|
|
scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
|
|
|
Don't waste time or money changing to silicon, if you do you should then change it yearly. it's not cheap and you'd be better using Dot5.1 which will mix with the Dot3/4 without cleaning the system out and is a similar price as Dot 3/4. If you have working brakes on your trailer and you drive appropriately your brakes shouldn't get any hotter than when not towing. The main advantage of silicone brake fluid is that it doesn’t need changing as often (in fact ever, according to some). The theory about water sitting at the lowest point and not mixing is just myth (how would water get in there if it’s not hygroscopic).
|
|
|
|
dog
Part of things
Posts: 50
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 10:22:11 GMT
|
Only used silicone once on a new build with every brake part new, kept in garage while built but kept getting bubbles of moisture in reservoir, took it all out and wont use it again.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 10:47:35 GMT
|
The theory about water sitting at the lowest point and not mixing is just myth (how would water get in there if it’s not hygroscopic). The same way water gets into ordinary fluid.
|
|
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,258
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 11:17:11 GMT
|
I use a air feed / one man brake bleed system to drive everything out of the braking circuit via the bleed nipples - nothing then stopping you from pushing a dose of brake cleaner through the system using the same method - with brake cleaner being solvent based hence evaporating to vaper I then leave it overnight before using the brake bleeder again to allow low volume air pressure through the system to the nipples and ensure that the circuit is dry - essentially just as you would when bleeding the brakes - then bleed the system with DOT 5 silicone - never had a issue with any of the 20+ cars / restorations that I have utilised this method on Has that method been used on a car with ABS? I ask as I am aware that they can be a pig to bleed without the right diagnostic software to effectively "run" the pump, thus making it bleed for you . Don't waste time or money changing to silicon, if you do you should then change it yearly. it's not cheap and you'd be better using Dot5.1 which will mix with the Dot3/4 without cleaning the system out and is a similar price as Dot 3/4. If you have working brakes on your trailer and you drive appropriately your brakes shouldn't get any hotter than when not towing. The main advantage of silicone brake fluid is that it doesn’t need changing as often (in fact ever, according to some). The theory about water sitting at the lowest point and not mixing is just myth (how would water get in there if it’s not hygroscopic). Condensation can still get into the reservoir through temperature changes. No different to that building up in the engine cam cover or on the outside/inside of the windscreen. I'm also in the camp that a decent conventional fluid will be fine. If you can afford it, Castol SRF is a very hardy fluid.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 11:35:06 GMT
|
I use a air feed / one man brake bleed system to drive everything out of the braking circuit via the bleed nipples - nothing then stopping you from pushing a dose of brake cleaner through the system using the same method - with brake cleaner being solvent based hence evaporating to vaper I then leave it overnight before using the brake bleeder again to allow low volume air pressure through the system to the nipples and ensure that the circuit is dry - essentially just as you would when bleeding the brakes - then bleed the system with DOT 5 silicone - never had a issue with any of the 20+ cars / restorations that I have utilised this method on Has that method been used on a car with ABS? I ask as I am aware that they can be a pig to bleed without the right diagnostic software to effectively "run" the pump, thus making it bleed for you . The main advantage of silicone brake fluid is that it doesn’t need changing as often (in fact ever, according to some). The theory about water sitting at the lowest point and not mixing is just myth (how would water get in there if it’s not hygroscopic). Condensation can still get into the reservoir through temperature changes. No different to that building up in the engine cam cover or on the outside/inside of the windscreen. I'm also in the camp that a decent conventional fluid will be fine. If you can afford it, Castol SRF is a very hardy fluid. Chas - I have to say that I have never done a brake fluid change on a motor with a ABS brake system - all my stuff is very old school systems - anything with a ABS system I would send to the man who services / MOT's the moderns The point with DOT 5 silicone brake fluid is that even if water did get into the brake reservoir it would float on top of the silicone fluid - Unlike DOT 4 where the water mixes with the fluid and becomes hydroscopic
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 28, 2020 11:39:24 GMT by Deleted
|
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,258
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 11:39:10 GMT
|
I think his RRC (Range Rover Classic) would have an ABS pump on in that case, which would complicate things IMHO ; I know on BMWs, INPA can run the ABS pump, VCDS can on VAGs and I believe Snap-On Solus can too on a number of cars, but the RRC would be pre-OBD, unless someone out there knows a way to run the pump somehow (i.e wire up the pump to the battery on a switch etc.). In that case, it strengthens the case for sticking with DOT 4 or 5.1, to me anyway .
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 12:11:26 GMT
|
ChasR, it’s a 1983 rrc so no abs, and it’s not likely to gain that setup because with six wheels it might get a tad Confused ...😀 Thanks for input all
|
|
|
|
melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 2,001
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 13:06:06 GMT
|
6-wheel RRC? I think we need a pic!
|
|
www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
|
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 13:45:55 GMT
|
I’ll try and get one in a bit, but there’s a disclaimer: it’s no showcar....
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 14:15:28 GMT
|
Right, for those that want to know what a really shabby rrc looks like: Here you go
|
|
|
|
melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 2,001
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 15:09:54 GMT
|
That is ugly and ace in equal measure! Love it!
What's the story behind it? Was it built for a special purpose?
|
|
www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
|
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 16:39:22 GMT
|
eBay purchase about 13 years ago without engine or box, I think it’s a JNR Conversion but nothing to prove, it looked good but was rotten, now it looks rotten but it’s solid underneath and mechanically pretty good, on about its 5th engine since I’ve had it, now the td5 I’ve been bleating about on here occasionally I love it, gets attention everywhere it goes, I’ve lost count of the offers I’ve had to buy it, until I blew it up last year it was covering 16k a year There were loads of coach builders in the Birmingham area making them in the 80’s, but they’re all out of business now
|
|
|
|
Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 767
Club RR Member Number: 12
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 16:53:48 GMT
|
That’s ace, how is it to drive? I presume it must scrub like curse word when doing tight turns?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 17:15:59 GMT
|
I forget it’s there normally, only sleeping policemen or tight corners remind me,but having had it for so long it’s second nature now, when I drive my sons disco I look behind and think it’s short. it does like to scrub out rearmost tyres so only gets cheapy secondhand ones on the third axle I’m so used to it now I look at people staring and think ‘what are you staring at? Oh yeah....!’😀
|
|
|
|
scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
|
|
Mar 28, 2020 21:36:09 GMT
|
The main advantage of silicone brake fluid is that it doesn’t need changing as often (in fact ever, according to some). The theory about water sitting at the lowest point and not mixing is just myth (how would water get in there if it’s not hygroscopic). Condensation can still get into the reservoir through temperature changes. No different to that building up in the engine cam cover or on the outside/inside of the windscreen.. Sorry but it’s very different - condensation occurs where you have a temperature differential, such as a chunk of metal under a rocker box versus outside temp or the inside of the car v outside. The free air space inside a brake reservoir isn’t going to condense much!
|
|
|
|
|