Cheap way of cleaning out a choked DPF?

[contrarian]

I've bought a cheap V70 D5 which will hopefully replace my T5 daily if I can get it up to scratch.  It was cheap mainly because the DPF is choked up and it's down on power as a result.  Obviously I'm not up for replacing the DPF or paying more than I did for the car to have it mapped out etc, so I'm looking for a ghetto fix   I've seen Wynns off-car DPF cleaner for about 30 quid a gallon.

Also if you keep the clutch pedal depressed for any length of time the pedal stays on the floor and has to be pulled back up manually.  Can't see any fluid peeing out anywhere but I'm worried that the concentric slave is on the way out, in which case it may only see a bucket and sponge before being moved on again with full disclosure.

It was an ebay mistake.  I put in a cheeky offer thinking the seller would counter and I would arrange to see it but........OWLD AAAHT YER AAAND!  

Thoughts/advice much appreciated

[stealthstylz]

Take it off, cap one end off then stand it vertically against something and fill it with neat TFR, leave it overnight, then empty and blast through with a pressure washer. Repeat (you can use the same TFR over and over) if needed. If they're still running that generally works.

[kevins]

On Fords the clutch is usually the master cyl, because they have over centre springs they are sensitive to a small increase in friction with wear and dirt.

Dpf - clean as above but you also need to find why it blocked, are there exhaust pressure sensor, thermocouple, injector or egr faults etc.

[legend]

my mate uses oven cleaner on his DPF

[generallee]

I have no idea, but props to you for buying it anyway. Far too many messers on ebay.

[nel5on]

Washed mine with a water blaster backward to the flow(mostly), then hose and dishwashing liquid, then cooked out the water on the BBQ. took a few hours

[xbl]

I use an SDS on rotostop with a large SDS Chisel on my DPFs, they're one of the most Heath Robinson pieces of engineering in the history of the motor vehicle.

[homersimpson]

I had a VW Passat where the clutch pedal stuck down, it only did occassionaly or if you sat with your foot on the clutch for long periods. Pulling it back up always restored the status quo and I got used to just lifting it up with my foot when it did it.

It never used any fluid so I assume the master cylinder was on its way out but I did 20,000 miles in it like that before giving it to a mate of mine who put another 10,000 on it before it wasn't worth fixing for other reasons.

[contrarian]

Sept 18, 2020 19:32:12 GMT xbl said:

I use an SDS on rotostop with a large SDS Chisel on my DPFs, they're one of the most Heath Robinson pieces of engineering in the history of the motor vehicle.

I'm definitely not a fan of them either.  Would this not require a remap though?

[contrarian]

Sept 18, 2020 4:31:38 GMT stealthstylz said:

Take it off, cap one end off then stand it vertically against something and fill it with neat TFR, leave it overnight, then empty and blast through with a pressure washer. Repeat (you can use the same TFR over and over) if needed. If they're still running that generally works.

Will have a go at this.  It's running but totally gutless like the turbo isn't there at all.  After jumping out of my old T5  I felt like a sitting duck in this thing at junctions and roundabouts.  I suppose it will be pokey enough once sorted.

Cheers
George

[contrarian]

Sept 18, 2020 17:45:14 GMT generallee said:

I have no idea, but props to you for buying it anyway. Far too many messers on ebay.

My word is my bond guv, stand on me etc

[contrarian]

Sept 18, 2020 8:41:18 GMT kevins said:

On Fords the clutch is usually the master cyl, because they have over centre springs they are sensitive to a small increase in friction with wear and dirt.

Dpf - clean as above but you also need to find why it blocked, are there exhaust pressure sensor, thermocouple, injector or egr faults etc.

I really hope it is the master leaking internally, much better than pulling the box out.  I have a scan tool on the way from ebay which seems like a decent one for the money.  

Cheers
George

[contrarian]

Sept 18, 2020 9:06:12 GMT legend said:

my mate uses oven cleaner on his DPF

Good shout.  Folks seem to have good luck with it for turbo vanes and EGRs too.  I'll go with something a bit gentler to start and work up to this.

Cheers
George

[contrarian]

Sept 18, 2020 18:27:03 GMT nel5on said:

Washed mine with a water blaster backward to the flow(mostly), then hose and dishwashing liquid, then cooked out the water on the BBQ. took a few hours

I'll spend a good while rinsing it out like this after the chemicals.  I don't have a BBQ but I do have one of those high velocity dryers that dog groomers use.  I'll give it a blow through with that and let it sit for a day or two before refitting.

Cheers
George

[contrarian]

Sept 18, 2020 21:14:11 GMT homersimpson said:

I had a VW Passat where the clutch pedal stuck down, it only did occassionaly or if you sat with your foot on the clutch for long periods. Pulling it back up always restored the status quo and I got used to just lifting it up with my foot when it did it.

It never used any fluid so I assume the master cylinder was on its way out but I did 20,000 miles in it like that before giving it to a mate of mine who put another 10,000 on it before it wasn't worth fixing for other reasons.

I can''t see a leak (yet).  Might try givng it a bleed and see what happens.

Had a couple of B5 Passats myself and liked them.  Seems like people will still pay strong money for a late low miler.  Probably because they don't want to deal with all this DPF farce.

Cheers
George

[ChasR]

Sept 19, 2020 5:23:28 GMT contrarian said:

Sept 18, 2020 21:14:11 GMT homersimpson said:

I had a VW Passat where the clutch pedal stuck down, it only did occassionaly or if you sat with your foot on the clutch for long periods. Pulling it back up always restored the status quo and I got used to just lifting it up with my foot when it did it.

It never used any fluid so I assume the master cylinder was on its way out but I did 20,000 miles in it like that before giving it to a mate of mine who put another 10,000 on it before it wasn't worth fixing for other reasons.

I can''t see a leak (yet).  Might try givng it a bleed and see what happens.

Had a couple of B5 Passats myself and liked them.  Seems like people will still pay strong money for a late low miler.  Probably because they don't want to deal with all this DPF farce.

Cheers
George

Nope, it's because the B6 that followed it after was a turd. For the first time ever, a Mondeo of that generation (well, a Mk4) is pricier than a Passat. The Passats are that curse word.

The other reason? B5.5s are thin on the ground now. Those who know how good they are won't sell them. Why would they? This leaves either abused cars for sale or ones with attention thrown at them. I'm not saying they are quite in the 'retro' status, but they are certainly uncommon now.

Mine was nice when it worked but Jesus I had almost every 'common' problem. I could have wished for a DPF issue if another car came with one. How bad? The following was borked

-Steering Column Module ; Google B6 Steering Lock Issues and you'll see what I mean. Mine was an early car, so yes, it needed the expensive fix
-Both rear Electric Brake Calipers
-Camshaft ; this is admittedly a 1.9 PD issue
-Random electrical faults. Not having a working fan of any means is annoying ; Driving in the rain was a nightmare as it simply wouldn't demist inside or get the heat into the cabin. We couldn't figure it out so we wired it up permanently
-Gearbox fragged itself. On the 5 speed manuals, I'm told that's a common issue.

I have people, generally VW Fanbwois saying "You must have had a bad one mate, they're bulletproof", except

-A Car dealer mate had almost no issue with B5.5s, but has with B6s. Generally, the rear calipers going wrong. Small wonder B6 taxis often have the yellow EPB warning
-Both friends B6s, one of which was a sub 60k car, had the steering lock problems. They lived with it, but it's something that personally would annoy me like mental, not knowing if a car will start up right, and potentially cut out because of it.

The B5.5 in comparison was sewn from granite. I know of a few B5.5s that simply refuse to die. One friend of mine has actually bought two, as well as owning his long term HighLine B5.5. The Sport is more of a spare/hack car on 235k. The other was owned by a mate. Since B5.5s aren't as popular as they were, spares are drying up, so our mate's car has been a great spares car. That got retired due to an injector fault, but it does still run well.

[Rich]

Sept 19, 2020 4:53:19 GMT contrarian said:

Sept 18, 2020 19:32:12 GMT xbl said:

I use an SDS on rotostop with a large SDS Chisel on my DPFs, they're one of the most Heath Robinson pieces of engineering in the history of the motor vehicle.

I'm definitely not a fan of them either.  Would this not require a remap though?

Yes, removing it completely will still have the car running poo. Basically I would put money on the car being in a soft-map for engine safety as not to clog the DPF further, based off the DPF pressures sensor reading. Cleaning it and resetting the codes and doing a regen will put it back into normal mode. Removing the DPF contents means the sensor reads the same before and after the DPF and the ECM has a hissy because it knows the DPF has been tampered with. The remap just reprograms the ECM to see the readings as normal.

[nel5on]

Sept 19, 2020 5:16:58 GMT contrarian said:

Sept 18, 2020 18:27:03 GMT nel5on said:

Washed mine with a water blaster backward to the flow(mostly), then hose and dishwashing liquid, then cooked out the water on the BBQ. took a few hours

I'll spend a good while rinsing it out like this after the chemicals.  I don't have a BBQ but I do have one of those high velocity dryers that dog groomers use.  I'll give it a blow through with that and let it sit for a day or two before refitting.

Cheers
George

Oven maybe, key is to get it dry....
Also gutting the DPF is not a good idea, to know its blocked it measures both sides of the DPF, if they read the same, it faults also.

[contrarian]

Sept 19, 2020 6:00:19 GMT ChasR said:

Sept 19, 2020 5:23:28 GMT contrarian said:

I can''t see a leak (yet).  Might try givng it a bleed and see what happens.

Had a couple of B5 Passats myself and liked them.  Seems like people will still pay strong money for a late low miler.  Probably because they don't want to deal with all this DPF farce.

Cheers
George

Nope, it's because the B6 that followed it after was a turd. For the first time ever, a Mondeo of that generation (well, a Mk4) is pricier than a Passat. The Passats are that curse word.

The other reason? B5.5s are thin on the ground now. Those who know how good they are won't sell them. Why would they? This leaves either abused cars for sale or ones with attention thrown at them. I'm not saying they are quite in the 'retro' status, but they are certainly uncommon now.

Mine was nice when it worked but Jesus I had almost every 'common' problem. I could have wished for a DPF issue if another car came with one. How bad? The following was borked

-Steering Column Module ; Google B6 Steering Lock Issues and you'll see what I mean. Mine was an early car, so yes, it needed the expensive fix
-Both rear Electric Brake Calipers
-Camshaft ; this is admittedly a 1.9 PD issue
-Random electrical faults. Not having a working fan of any means is annoying ; Driving in the rain was a nightmare as it simply wouldn't demist inside or get the heat into the cabin. We couldn't figure it out so we wired it up permanently
-Gearbox fragged itself. On the 5 speed manuals, I'm told that's a common issue.

I have people, generally VW Fanbwois saying "You must have had a bad one mate, they're bulletproof", except

-A Car dealer mate had almost no issue with B5.5s, but has with B6s. Generally, the rear calipers going wrong. Small wonder B6 taxis often have the yellow EPB warning
-Both friends B6s, one of which was a sub 60k car, had the steering lock problems. They lived with it, but it's something that personally would annoy me like mental, not knowing if a car will start up right, and potentially cut out because of it.

The B5.5 in comparison was sewn from granite. I know of a few B5.5s that simply refuse to die. One friend of mine has actually bought two, as well as owning his long term HighLine B5.5. The Sport is more of a spare/hack car on 235k. The other was owned by a mate. Since B5.5s aren't as popular as they were, spares are drying up, so our mate's car has been a great spares car. That got retired due to an injector fault, but it does still run well.

I briefly worked for a VW dealership  in 07/08 so I can sympathise with anyone who bought a B6.  We stocked so many B6 steering columns for warranty work that they had to be kept in a seperate area with bulky items like body panels and wheels.  Also many EPB switches.  These items were failing when the cars were basically new.  The techs regarded the B6 as junk.  

I don't like to generalise but some VW enthusiasts are so blinkered they come across more like cult members.  For me the MK4 generation cars were the high water mark and the current stuff is no better than anything else. 

Cheers
George

[welshpug]

once you wash it out you need to figure out what caused it to clog up, sticky EGR is a common fault, also if temperature sensors in the exhaust are off and coolant temp is too cold they wont do a proper regen even if you ask it to.