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Still,waiting,for the V5c which the letter from DVLA suggested could be here by tomorrow or early next week if all went well. Thread: forum.retro-rides.org/thread/215488/grizz-purgatory-rezin-rockit-adviceHELP AND ADVICE NEEDED PLEASE. Opinions we know, differ a lot. I like this style of wheel based on the Driver Style cars from the Philippines Saw these last night. And at £80.00 it seems a worthwhile avenue to investigate, if one can make changes at an affordable, SAFE level. I am not clever with the whole pcd/et/spacer/wobble bolt/tuner wheel bolt thing, but know what I like the look of, and also that not everything is actually doable in the real world. Note: They are MULTIFIT 4x100 and 4x108 according to the seller. Seller had these fitted to his car using some of these bolts. Remember, the Rezin Rockit has old skool Ford hubs with regular studs....... so where does one turn with conversions etc, one rear drum is missing, one front brake calliper is busted off, so starting fresh is possible. Does one go with spacers (not sure I like them a lot, but....) This is what they offer et 35 so a long way from et 0 needed to fill out especially the rear arches. So these are the wheels, one has a small dent, which I do suspect can be traightened with a decent protected lump hammer if needs, but not too bothered as he said it was still air tight. Two have tyres fitted as well. So come on clever people........ Can it be done?
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Last Edit: Oct 9, 2020 10:02:28 GMT by grizz
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I can't see photos (blocked on work pc)
But one key thing here is that -35 actually sticks out more than 0 so the opposite to the problem you think you've got.
Offset works in that the higher the number above 0 the further within the arch the wheel sits.
I don't know if you've done it or not yet but best thing to do is to get the full specs of the current wheel, then measure how much you need to make it stick out more to sit where you want it to and then we can take it from there based on increase in width or decrease in offset or more likely a combination of the two ...
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I can't see photos (blocked on work pc) But one key thing here is that -35 actually sticks out more than 0 so the opposite to the problem you think you've got. Offset works in that the higher the number above 0 the further within the arch the wheel sits. I don't know if you've done it or not yet but best thing to do is to get the full specs of the current wheel, then measure how much you need to make it stick out more to sit where you want it to and then we can take it from there based on increase in width or decrease in offset or more likely a combination of the two ... My bad..... It is not - -35 but rather a space, and just 35 et Sorry for confusion. Have edited it now mate.
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Last Edit: Oct 9, 2020 9:55:16 GMT by grizz
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,850
Club RR Member Number: 58
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In your title do you mean et "hyphen" 35 rather than et "minus" 35? Because an et minus 35 wheel would poke out further than an et0 one. Though those wheels appear to be et+35, so shouldn't be too much issue to space them out to where you need them I used some bolt on spacers on my MGB for years with no issue, something like this Some short nuts to fit them to the studs on the hub, then regular taper nuts (or whatever the wheel requires) to affix the wheel to the spacer. Assume your car is 4x108 if its Ford hubs, so as long as one of the PCD's on those wheels are 4x108 you're sorted, if the wheels are 4x100 (going by the MINI centre caps) then you can get PCD adapters which are just like the spacers but have two PCDs on them. Other thing to watch would be the centrebore size on the spacers, from memory the central bit of the front hub on the MG was quite large compared to most modern cars, Fords might be similar. So a quick measure to check they'll fit on the hub properly wouldn't hurt Edit: fr€$h&m1nt¥ beat me to it
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Last Edit: Oct 9, 2020 9:56:57 GMT by adam73bgt
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In your title do you mean et "hyphen" 35 rather than et "minus" 35? Because an et minus 35 wheel would poke out further than an et0 one. Though those wheels appear to be et+35, so shouldn't be too much issue to space them out to where you need them I used some bolt on spacers on my MGB for years with no issue, something like this Some short nuts to fit them to the studs on the hub, then regular taper nuts (or whatever the wheel requires) to affix the wheel to the spacer. Assume your car is 4x108 if its Ford hubs, so as long as one of the PCD's on those wheels are 4x108 you're sorted, if the wheels are 4x100 (going by the MINI centre caps) then you can get PCD adapters which are just like the spacers but have two PCDs on them. Other thing to watch would be the centrebore size on the spacers, from memory the central bit of the front hub on the MG was quite large compared to most modern cars, Fords might be similar. So a quick measure to check they'll fit on the hub properly wouldn't hurt Edit: fr€$h&m1nt¥ beat me to it Sorry, I work with sales figures and clinical stuff, so often use a hyphen as that, and sometimes as a minus. Have edited it now. Both you adam73bgt and fr€$h&m1nt¥ seem to be of the opinion it can be done. This appeals to me, as I like bonded steels, and may have a set on it on day as well, but do prefer this look of wheel, and painted and detailed a bit differently, think anthracite or thereabouts, and you have ne happy, along with variations in bronze and gold.
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In your title do you mean et "hyphen" 35 rather than et "minus" 35? Because an et minus 35 wheel would poke out further than an et0 one. Though those wheels appear to be et+35, so shouldn't be too much issue to space them out to where you need them I used some bolt on spacers on my MGB for years with no issue, something like this Some short nuts to fit them to the studs on the hub, then regular taper nuts (or whatever the wheel requires) to affix the wheel to the spacer. Assume your car is 4x108 if its Ford hubs, so as long as one of the PCD's on those wheels are 4x108 you're sorted, if the wheels are 4x100 (going by the MINI centre caps) then you can get PCD adapters which are just like the spacers but have two PCDs on them. Other thing to watch would be the centrebore size on the spacers, from memory the central bit of the front hub on the MG was quite large compared to most modern cars, Fords might be similar. So a quick measure to check they'll fit on the hub properly wouldn't hurt Edit: fr€$h&m1nt¥ beat me to it I believe these wheels need studs as the holes are quite thin or narrow going down. So spacers with threaded holes at 4x108 and also holes to affix to hubs will be the and]sweet. I suspect that something like that would work.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,850
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Aha no worries, it certainly sounds doable www.willtheyfit.com/ is a handy tool as well for wheel fitment stuff, particularly if you've already got some wheels on the car, you can just plug in the specs of the old and new wheels and it shows you where the new wheels will sit in relation to old. I'm a sucker for a wheel with a polished lip, particularly when the centres are gold or bronze! If your car is staying white then a nice dark bronze could be just the thing for it
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Aha no worries, it certainly sounds doable www.willtheyfit.com/ is a handy tool as well for wheel fitment stuff, particularly if you've already got some wheels on the car, you can just plug in the specs of the old and new wheels and it shows you where the new wheels will sit in relation to old. I'm a sucker for a wheel with a polished lip, particularly when the centres are gold or bronze! If your car is staying white then a nice dark bronze could be just the thing for it you beat me to it this time. If you've found the wheels you like (and know the width and offset of them) the next thing you need to find the width and offset of the current wheels and use the above site to see how different they'll sit so you can work out what spacers / adaptors you need - if needed at all. The tricky part with this is that if you're buying banded steels the offset needs to be measured rather than reading the original offset stamped in the wheel as the banding process would have resulted in a different offset as well as width.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,850
Club RR Member Number: 58
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I believe these wheels need studs as the holes are quite thin or narrow going down. So spacers with threaded holes at 4x108 and also holes to affix to hubs will be the and]sweet. I suspect that something like that would work. It could probably be done with bolts as well, but to be honest I like the ones with studs for the ease of fitting wheels if nothing else, trying to balance a wheel while lining up a bolt is a bit of a faff. It looks like theres a few options for "35mm 4x108" spacers on ebay so should be easy to sort
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I believe these wheels need studs as the holes are quite thin or narrow going down. So spacers with threaded holes at 4x108 and also holes to affix to hubs will be the and]sweet. I suspect that something like that would work. It could probably be done with bolts as well, but to be honest I like the ones with studs for the ease of fitting wheels if nothing else, trying to balance a wheel while lining up a bolt is a bit of a faff. It looks like theres a few options for "35mm 4x108" spacers on ebay so should be easy to sort So.... BOOOOM !! As Paul Y says. I am waiting to hear from the seller about the pcd on Messenger. He could be working or sleeping. I think that if they are good in a pcd way, the aesthetic which I like, which includes Rotas and the above Filipino Owner pic, would be delivered. And as you say Adam, if the paint is right, And a polished lip..... we could be in business cheaply, well.... relatively.
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Last Edit: Oct 9, 2020 10:35:18 GMT by grizz
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Just heard from seller. He just measured and they are 4x100 and 4x 114/5 So I guess it becomes a matter of getting these converted onto a 4x108 hub. If that is even doable in the realm of eBay and others.
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Search 4x100 to 4x108 adaptor on ebay.
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Search 4x100 to 4x108 adaptor on ebay. Thanks Or the reverse. As the hubs are 4x108
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I'm not sure. In my limited experience I thought the first pcd was that of the wheel and the second the hub.
I'm sure a competent person will be along shorty.
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I'm not sure. In my limited experience I thought the first pcd was that of the wheel and the second the hub. I'm sure a competent person will be along shorty. Poop...... Dangerous having people like me about. No knowledge, little info, and a dream
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Thanks for the replies guys.
Been out doing stuff.
Seeing my carports steel beams, they look huge.
And bought some steel.
Now got to start cooking Grilled ribs etc for tea.
In the mean time........
How wide a tyre can one fit sensibly/safely on a 7.5J wheel?
And also, what would the narrow, sensible limit be?
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215 or 225 i think.
Depends how you want the tyre to look as the aspect ratio plays a big part in that.
You could do it the other way around if you want a specific tyre and the see what sizes it comes in
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,850
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Another handy site tyrestretch.com/ , while more geared towards those who are actively looking for a bit of stretch, you can get a bit of an idea for what some tyre and wheel combos will look like. As ballbagbagins says the aspect ratio will affect the look also, as will the brand and style of tyre, some have squarer shoulders than others for the same given width. I've had 225's (can't remember the aspect ratio) on a 17x8 before so a 215 on a 7.5 shouldn't look too out of place at all
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,762
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Oct 10, 2020 11:12:04 GMT
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May just be the pictures but those measurements don't look even close to accurate ?
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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Oct 13, 2020 20:57:57 GMT
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Clever wheel guys....
Question time, and a riddle.
What is the stud pattern of these ?
Tyre that was on them was a 245 50 16
5 studs Approximate measurements stud centre to next stud centre 7cm stud centre to hub centre 6cm
No stamps that i can see. As accurately as i can with a tape measure, the stud holes are 1.6cm. The inner rim width is 21.5cm and the central hole is 7.7cm
Thanks.
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