60six
Posted a lot
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Posts: 1,651
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Oct 17, 2020 23:36:39 GMT
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Also, what other preparation is there? I have looked around on some paint forums and the lingo they use goes right over my head.
I have a decent compressor and a brand new decent gravity fed spray gun. I have no experience in this kind of spraying, but I was damn good at using rattlecans 20 years ago on a beetle!
I have a big enough indoor area that can be sealed off with plastic sheeting - I know I need a mask but have no idea what kind. I also have a decent sander/da.
I have never thought of trying this before and my recent learning from scratch how to weld and not being too bad at it has given be a much needed blast of confidence in learning a worthy skill from scratch.
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Some 9000's, a 900, an RX8 & a beetle
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,225
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Thinners. You want a bit of this for actual thinning, and for cleaning the gun down. Most paint suppliers will supply what you need as a ‘kit’ if you ask, eg, for 2K epoxy, they will supply the quantity of paint you require, plus hardener and thinners for the product. Depending on what system you use depends on what you need to thin it etc.
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Oct 18, 2020 14:33:39 GMT
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Ventilation is important, a booth filter before extraction fan for overspray plus another filter to allow fresh air into booth recommended. Good lighting essential. A wet floor helps keep dust down,temperature matters too. Mask-wise a full face with visor tear off is best but can be pricey (150 roughly) but great investment and keeps harmful vapours away. without extraction and mask difficult to see and breathe once painting started. Try to do all sanding before setting up sheeting for booth, tack cloths and panel wipe/pre wipe degreaser best for wiping down bodywork prior to priming /painting. A separate clean area for paint mixing, gun cleaning etc and paint mixing cups preferred. Small Inline regulator/pressure gauge fitted to spraygun to confirm gun pressure helpful too.
Just ask if anything ive missed here
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,710
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Oct 18, 2020 14:40:37 GMT
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As mentioned above temperature and relative humidity will be your biggest issues this time of year. Metallics tend to show up fluctuations more than solid colours as it will effect how the metallic pigment lays. You relay need a heated environment With stable conditions (no temp drop overnight etc.) to be able to painT consistently through the winter months.
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Oct 18, 2020 15:48:38 GMT
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You need to make sure you use a good quality 2k thinner in your basecoat, do not use cellulose/gunwash thinners. You need to have a gun setup size of 1.2-1.3 mm, anything bigger will put on too much material. Spray at 2 bar pressure. You're not looking to put on very "wet" coats as they will take a lot longer to dry and run far easier. The base can be dried by simply blowing air out of the gun onto the panel to evaporate the thinners, heat is needed in the paint area too but the air movement speeds up drying. Let each coat dry well before overcoating, 10 minutes should do so long as you're not hammering the coats on. Allow 20mins before lacquer. You also need to make sure the primer paint underneath is finished with fine enough sandpaper or the basecoat will appear scratchy and the metallic will show it up worse. Id recommend 500 grit on a da sander or 800-1200 grit waterpaper.
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Oct 18, 2020 15:49:39 GMT
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Also finish the final layer of metallic with a drop or dust coat by dropping the pressure down to 1 bar and dusting the paint on.
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60six
Posted a lot
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Posts: 1,651
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Didnt consider temperatures - and ventilation may be an issue - this may be a little too difficult for me to pursue at the moment. Now I understand the prices charged!
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Some 9000's, a 900, an RX8 & a beetle
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Oct 19, 2020 17:38:31 GMT
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I have to say. It's one of the few things I would get somone else to do if I wanted it anywhere near right. Painted a few cars in my time and it's well worth paying someone even considering the time saving let alone the fact they will do a better job. Especially metallic!
Biggest issue is finding someone reliable.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,185
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Oct 19, 2020 20:36:07 GMT
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If you are painting part of the panel, I recommend you get some blending thinner or if out of a rattle can, blending in lacquer.
I've managed to blend in lacquer so people can't tell, but very very close up, I've always seen the difference, albeit being critical. I thought the BT/BiL was was the same as a left handed screwdriver, but it does exist and give a better finish if you are partially painting something.
I was scared of doing metallics for the reason people say in this thread. I practicised on the scrap Mondeo door we have and TBH, I'm glad that I did. It's given me a little more confidence to do more.
Sure, I could go to a paint shop but it seems good ones are hard to find and generally expensive, albeit their overheads etc. are not the cheapest.
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Last Edit: Oct 19, 2020 20:37:41 GMT by ChasR
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