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Nov 24, 2020 17:46:08 GMT
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If you are changing tyres, might as well lower it and fit alloys It will want brake fluid, plugs, air filter, oil, filters, coolant, alt belt, cambelt if it's sat idle for 10 years. if you are doing the subframe - rebush it all as well. If you do suspension, change the top mounts as my old one steered so much better when that was done. Best thing with something that needs a few jobs is, you can upgrade instead of just replacing.
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Last Edit: Nov 24, 2020 17:48:15 GMT by joem83
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Nov 24, 2020 18:24:57 GMT
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Thanks!
I had an idea that yellow steelies would look pretty cool ...
Indeed all would go on the to do, and I would upgrade as I went; I suppose my question is should I get it trailered home and do all the above before putting any miles on it, or would it be fine to do it piecemeal as I drove it a bit. Probably the former is safer.
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Nov 24, 2020 18:53:09 GMT
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Well it has MOT so should be ok to drive it in theory.
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Last Edit: Nov 24, 2020 19:06:27 GMT by joem83
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Nov 24, 2020 20:58:00 GMT
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Nov 24, 2020 21:28:08 GMT
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Nov 24, 2020 21:44:13 GMT
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I know you said no, but.. StarletStarletYou could daily one of those without am issue. If you can get a rust free 3dr 205 under £2k you wont loose money & the 1.4 is a fun drive. Still loads of upgrades available too
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Nov 24, 2020 21:56:16 GMT
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I know you said no, but.. StarletStarletYou could daily one of those without am issue. If you can get a rust free 3dr 205 under £2k you wont loose money & the 1.4 is a fun drive. Still loads of upgrades available too At 1200 quid the 205 appeals a lot more but at 350 quid I could be tempted into a Starlet!
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Nov 24, 2020 22:08:13 GMT
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Slightly misleading advert...the "recent MOT" was a fail and it is the second MOT it failed this year. Registration H615PVG.
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Nov 24, 2020 22:49:41 GMT
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Nov 24, 2020 22:56:53 GMT
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merryck
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 477
Club RR Member Number: 9
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What first project car?merryck
@merryck
Club Retro Rides Member 9
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Nov 24, 2020 22:58:54 GMT
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Out of interest why don't you want to learn to weld?
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Nov 24, 2020 22:59:28 GMT
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After a lay up of that long i'd be carefully considering replacing anything rubber before doing too much. Brake lines can degrade. Metal brake lines need a good poking at. Belts will probably fall apart when turned for the first time (does it have a timing belt? Consider that before starting it for the first time). Brake discs/drums will probably have loads of rust on them. Pads/shoes might be stuck to the disc/drum. Other than that, try it and see what happens . If it breaks you've got something to fix. As for first projects cars, well that depends how you describe a project. I had a kit car which i never finished. Had a civic and an Integra which I did a lot of fiddling with. Bought an old Land Rover and the rest is history. Literally a professional mechanic now. Edit: Sorry old bean I missed the second page. You can probably disregard most of that now.
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Last Edit: Nov 24, 2020 23:00:15 GMT by Xenocide
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Nov 24, 2020 23:03:41 GMT
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Out of interest why don't you want to learn to weld? I think I should start with the more straightforward things!
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Nov 24, 2020 23:05:11 GMT
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After a lay up of that long i'd be carefully considering replacing anything rubber before doing too much. Brake lines can degrade. Metal brake lines need a good poking at. Belts will probably fall apart when turned for the first time (does it have a timing belt? Consider that before starting it for the first time). Brake discs/drums will probably have loads of rust on them. Pads/shoes might be stuck to the disc/drum. Other than that, try it and see what happens . If it breaks you've got something to fix. As for first projects cars, well that depends how you describe a project. I had a kit car which i never finished. Had a civic and an Integra which I did a lot of fiddling with. Bought an old Land Rover and the rest is history. Literally a professional mechanic now. Edit: Sorry old bean I missed the second page. You can probably disregard most of that now. Thanks! Given it has an MOT I would hope all the rubber bits aren't totally degraded such that it will fall apart on starting, but point taken. As for what I mean by project...something to tinker with but driveable rather than fully blown restoration!
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The Sunny is a good shout. I'd have it as a first 'project' car over a 205.
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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I spoke to the seller of the 205, friendly chap, seems like an enthusiast (apparently he is rebuilding a sunbeam alpine). Going to go out and take a look this weekend. Definitely will need new fluids and a bit of TLC. He acquired it in 2013, it had been off the road a few years since, he changed the oil and did a few bits and pieces then, put it on blocks in his garage and left it for 7 years. Might try and knock a few quid off on account of the work needed, but it seems to be pretty cheap already.
Quick query - as far as I can tell the 205 has the TU3 F2/K engine, 1,360 cc, 2-bbl carb (the seller confirmed it is not fuel injected anyway, these cars seem to have been fitted with endless varieties of engine according to wiki). Anything I need to know about starting/driving a carb engine? I am a bit young to remember them ...
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Nov 25, 2020 10:33:11 GMT
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Whatever you decide to get try to find one that isn't rusty, especially since you're not keen to do your own welding. Fixing mechanical things usually pretty straight forward and is a finite cost whereas chasing rust goes on for ever and quickly becomes prohibitively expensive if you have to pay someone else to do it. Disclaimer; I live in New Zealand. We don't salt the roads here so non rusty cars are easier to come by. Would be looking at C70 Volvo's in your shoes myself Volvo C70s are a good shout. For well under £2k you'll get a good one with the older style cable throttle (Pre 1999). You're looking at a thrummy 5 cylinder putting out around 240bhp - interesting enough? Probably the most comfortable car I ever owned either. I recommend a coupe rather than convertible, as they're stiffer and less prone to scuttle related handling problems. They don't really rust and are very easy to work on. They are quite heavy and not the sharpest steering car around but make absolutely perfect GT cars.
Old Ovlovs are great first time project cars. Miles of space in the engine bay, simple electronics, reliable engines, very good availability of cheap parts too. If you take up welding you'll be grateful that the panels are so flat and boxy and easy to fabricate and repair.
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Nov 25, 2020 10:45:08 GMT
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I spoke to the seller of the 205, friendly chap, seems like an enthusiast (apparently he is rebuilding a sunbeam alpine). Going to go out and take a look this weekend. Definitely will need new fluids and a bit of TLC. He acquired it in 2013, it had been off the road a few years since, he changed the oil and did a few bits and pieces then, put it on blocks in his garage and left it for 7 years. Might try and knock a few quid off on account of the work needed, but it seems to be pretty cheap already. Quick query - as far as I can tell the 205 has the TU3 F2/K engine, 1,360 cc, 2-bbl carb (the seller confirmed it is not fuel injected anyway, these cars seem to have been fitted with endless varieties of engine according to wiki). Anything I need to know about starting/driving a carb engine? I am a bit young to remember them ... They have a choke, so when it's cold you will need to pull it out to get it started. Should have a single solex. The XS had a the double choke solex which gave it a bit more power. It can be luck of the drawer weather it had an alloy block tu3s or an iron block tu3. It's supposed to just be the xs that has the alloy block but as you say, so many variations of this engine in so many cars. It's a peppy engine though and people do/did tune the 1.4. one of the Citroen piccasos actually had a tu gearbox with xu internals so was a very strong box. At one point I could have told you the codes and ratio's 🤣
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Nov 25, 2020 10:56:13 GMT
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Cheers. To make it even more tricky the seller thinks the engine/box might have been switched at some point. So who knows what engine is in it ...
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Nov 25, 2020 11:55:28 GMT
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Take a magnet, if you can stick it to the block it's not a tu3s - if it doesnt then it has the lighter 85bhp XS engine, which isnt a bad thing! Just found this, should be same & might help identify what engine it has quicker www.peugeot206cc.co.uk/repair-206/206/info/gb/b1bb13k3.htmIf it is a 1.4 it needs to say TU3 somewhere on the block (TU1 is 1.1 & TU9 is 0.9 apparently)
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Last Edit: Nov 25, 2020 11:58:34 GMT by joem83
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