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Mar 12, 2021 23:33:31 GMT
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Is there a best way to do this? Going to give the badges on my MX5 some love while the panel is being painted, I have some metallic black touch up paint I want to paint the lettering in. Should I: a) polish up the badges before cleaning out the lettering and applying paint and lacquer using a syringe? b) spray the entire badge black then flat back using fine wet/dry until back to metal on the raised surface, then lacquer the whole thing? c) something else entirely?  |
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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Mar 13, 2021 16:51:08 GMT
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I've always dripped enamel paint into the letters with a tiny paint brush.
If you do put paint into the recesses, be careful not to add to much. It's very tempting but will end up with shrinking marks as it dries.
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Last Edit: Mar 13, 2021 16:51:21 GMT by ferny
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Del
South East
Posts: 1,448
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Mar 13, 2021 16:51:44 GMT
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What about those paint marker pens?
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Mar 14, 2021 23:28:41 GMT
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The paint pens I have, not that I have black, have a very fat nib and are a bit unruly. Not sure they'd be precise enough to work here.
ferny those little detail artist brushes are a good idea, I'll have to find some. And good point about not adding too much, it's something I'd quite likely do.
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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When I used to paint recesses on citadel miniatures (war hammer) figures I’d paint into the creases with a fine brush and then wipe off excess in raised areas with some cloth whilst still wet.
Same technique could work here.
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shin2chin
Part of things
Making curse word cars slightly better
Posts: 820 
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When I used to paint recesses on citadel miniatures (war hammer) figures I wouldn't have admitted to that, should have said Airfix or something! |
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1977 PORSCHE 2.0na 924
1974 VW Beetle 1600
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When I used to paint recesses on citadel miniatures (war hammer) figures I wouldn't have admitted to that, should have said Airfix or something! I broke the first rule of role playing club.  |
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I wouldn't have admitted to that, should have said Airfix or something! I broke the first rule of role playing club. Haha TBH I paint WH too. Used to as a kid then picked it back up recently. It's a pretty therapeutic little hobby that's different enough to car work to give a good break. Another technique from that is using washes. They're basically inks with a base that's got low surface tension. You can brush them over textured areas (or recesses) and it'll flow into the recess and leave the high spots clear. You might need a few layers for the deep recesses, and to brush off the edges a bit, but it should work well. Can make your own car-appropriate washes by just heavily thinning down the paint. |
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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Mar 15, 2021 10:08:10 GMT
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I did my Avenger badges a while ago. I just spray painted the lot, then when the paint was touch dry, but not bone dry, I scraped the highlights off with my fingernails. It worked surprisingly well.  IMG_20201217_175906 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr  IMG_20201217_183018 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr  IMG_20201217_181741 by Chris Witkowski, on Flickr That Eunos badge looks pretty rough though, so I'm not sure how well the paint would scrape off. You could mask off the majority of the badge so you're not scraping for hours. |
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Last Edit: Mar 15, 2021 10:09:57 GMT by lebowski
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Mar 15, 2021 21:06:59 GMT
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Thanks all, I think I'll orde some detail brushes and play around with flowing nicely into the crevices, thinning it if I need to.
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Project Diary1975 Viva / 1988 T25 Camper / 1989 Mini / 1991 MX5 / 1992 Mini / 1994 Saab 9000 / 1997 Saab 9000 / 2008 Saab 9-5
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Mar 15, 2021 21:47:02 GMT
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I would go with 1 shot sign writers enamel and a really good quality super fine brush. It is not cheap but is very very good.
Do not get polish, wax or anything silicone based in the area you want to paint.
No need to lacquer and as the name suggests it's designed to last.
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Last Edit: Mar 15, 2021 21:49:17 GMT by duggers
Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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I broke the first rule of role playing club. Haha TBH I paint WH too. Used to as a kid then picked it back up recently. It's a pretty therapeutic little hobby that's different enough to car work to give a good break. Another technique from that is using washes. They're basically inks with a base that's got low surface tension. You can brush them over textured areas (or recesses) and it'll flow into the recess and leave the high spots clear. You might need a few layers for the deep recesses, and to brush off the edges a bit, but it should work well. Can make your own car-appropriate washes by just heavily thinning down the paint. I suspected I wouldn’t be the only one around here. I was tempted to get back into it during lockdown which would have been my third phase (First around 11 years old in 1990/1991 / second time around 2007ish) but I already have enough hobbies backed up before I get back into figures. I was going to mention inks but didn’t think that would work for car badges, I hadn’t thought about thinning down paint. |
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I’ve seen a different technique used in an Italian body shop.
The whole badge is sprayed in the colour that the lettering is required to be. Once dry, the inset/depressed area is filled with wax or blu tak and made flush with the surface. The high spot paint is then sanded back and the required paint is applied. The wax is then melted out or blu tak picked out.
Peter
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