andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,148
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Mar 20, 2021 18:21:36 GMT
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Alternator on the Pug 205D is putting out 16.5 volts, which might explain why the battery won't hold a charge now! So is this the regulator on the back of the Bosch alternator? And do I just swap for a new one? Also, where's a good place to get one? Thanks
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,233
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Alternator QuestionsRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Mar 20, 2021 19:03:24 GMT
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Indeed, that is the regulator. If you google the P/N (the bit under where it Says BOSCH) you will find an exact match, and even OE ones.
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,946
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Alternator Questionsmk2cossie
@mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member 77
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Pretty much just replace with a new one as said above. However, the contacts in the alternator on the shaft may need a slight clean up/polish
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,148
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Mar 21, 2021 10:22:10 GMT
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Thanks, for once I guessed right! But it's always to good to get confirmation.
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,946
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Alternator Questionsmk2cossie
@mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member 77
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Mar 21, 2021 10:26:31 GMT
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Also, if you can get genuine and justify the price, get an actual Bosch one Mickey mouse parts generally do not fit brilliantly, at least that's my experience anyway
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Mar 21, 2021 21:35:21 GMT
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Also, if you can get genuine and justify the price, get an actual Bosch one Mickey mouse parts generally do not fit brilliantly, at least that's my experience anyway If you do go for a Bosch one get it from a reputable source, nowadays just because it says Bosch doesen't mean it is.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,148
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Well, swapped the new one in and I'm getting a voltage reading of 1 on the new battery.
Guess it didn't work, the part of the rotor the regulator contacts is pretty worn, so I'm guessing it's a fail.
Shame really, can't really justify the price of an alternator on a car I'm not using and that's worth less than £500 with an MOT.
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Does not compute..... if it was putting out 16.5v before the generating ability is there....
Suggest checking all the contacts including the earth sleeve on the mounting screw and also that the alternator is earthing through it’s mounts. I know this last sounds weird but corrosion can prevent proper earthing and that leads to strange things, like loss of ability to regulate, because the regulator can’t properly see the battery voltage.
Suspect a proportion of alternator “faults” are fixed by the cation of swapping remaking the earth rather than the new alternator.
Remanufactured alternators are pretty cheap.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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find a local old boy in a tin shed that rebuilds alternators would be my next port of call if you don't feel you can fix it.
you should have at least battery voltage (12.5 or thereabouts for a healthy battery) when testing at the battery, so I think your testing method may be flawed, have another go!
your alternator is the same body fitment as the gti, so very easy to find a replacement, join up one of the many 205 groups on Facebook and you should be able to find something pretty quickly.
the slip ring is the part attached to the main shaft, two copper tracks joined to the main windings, they are glued in place.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,148
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Mar 28, 2021 13:50:14 GMT
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Will check the alt earth, didn't think of that!
Tested the same way when I had 16.5V and a fried battery, multimeter on 20V and across battery terminals?
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,233
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Alternator QuestionsRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Mar 28, 2021 13:54:41 GMT
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Well, swapped the new one in and I'm getting a voltage reading of 1 on the new battery. Guess it didn't work, the part of the rotor the regulator contacts is pretty worn, so I'm guessing it's a fail. Shame really, can't really justify the price of an alternator on a car I'm not using and that's worth less than £500 with an MOT. Yea, as mentioned you can't have the engine running and the battery showing 1V, that's not actually possible. The XUD needs about 7-9V at least to allow the solenoid on the diesel pump to let it run. Definitely check again.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,148
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Apr 16, 2021 16:53:14 GMT
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Ok, the saga continues!
Fitted a new alternator, I'm getting a healthy 13.5 volts across the battery while the engine is running, did the headlights on while battery is disconnected and they shine nice and bright.
But, (you knew that word was coming!) the ignition light stays on?
Surely if the ignition light isn't working, the battery wouldn't charge?
Advice please!
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 855
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Apr 17, 2021 14:47:31 GMT
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It suggests that the alternator has a problem (unless there is a wiring fault) In some fault conditions the alternator will still charge but the light will remain on. The fact that you are seeing 13.5V at the battery suggests that the alternator is 'sort of' working. However, it does have a fault and if the alternator is new it should be replaced under warranty.
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,148
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Apr 19, 2021 17:45:42 GMT
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Thanks, getting good at taking the alternator now!
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