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Huh. Went check the panel here on the house and it's 50A but someone just put 20A breakers in the garage. i had a similar situation, big juicy 6mm2 armoured cable from the house to the garage, but only 20a breakers in the garage, 20amp in the house. i thought to myself why don't i change them both to 32a. the answer was that between the consumer unit in the house, and the point where the armoured cable started (house wall) was a radial spur of 2.5mm2 cable, which i researched was not man enough for 32a. they were rightly cautious
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Last Edit: May 14, 2021 8:58:01 GMT by darrenh
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May 14, 2021 23:44:15 GMT
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Last Edit: May 14, 2021 23:44:29 GMT by PhilA
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Point of no return. Started to pull the glass out, by cutting the old window seal away. Surprisingly, it came away in one piece. Cleaned this corner up. It is surprisingly good, just needs a little bit of new metal letting in. The other side.. is probably worse. Phil
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And for a laugh.. The stainless trim is held in with spring clips, which are screwed in around the periphery of the window. The bottom left two undid, two for two. The clips are rusted to nothing but the screws undid just fine. Took me a while to realize what was what but I can see how the corner is formed, and it was originally all leaded over. I thought the metal was a bit soft. Not sure if I'll be leading it again, it'll probably end up sealed and fillered. Unless I start feeling adventurous with bodywork... Phil
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What's the duty cycle on it at full capacity? Seems like it will only do 0.8 or 1mm if I'm reading the specs correctly so you are likely to have the power turned all the way up.
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May 16, 2021 12:56:40 GMT
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What's the duty cycle on it at full capacity? Seems like it will only do 0.8 or 1mm if I'm reading the specs correctly so you are likely to have the power turned all the way up. 40% at maximum (180A), it hits 100% duty cycle at 116A which is well in excess of what I need for sheet steel. Phil
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May 16, 2021 14:24:47 GMT
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It only ever occurred to me when a friend was welding me some RSJs up and he had to keep waiting for it to cool off....
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May 16, 2021 19:01:25 GMT
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More wire wheel action today. There's a screw in there somewhere. As much as American metal loves to rust, imagine trying to undo that if it was made by BL in the sixties. This side is significantly better than I thought it would be. There's a couple holes but nothing bigger than a screwdriver jab. That's repairable. This is the trim I want to reinstate on both sides, that's the only one I have and the lugs are both broken off. I want to try get a pair with the "PLYMOUTH" script on, they look good. Progress is progress. Phil
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May 18, 2021 22:56:52 GMT
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Griiiiiind. Griiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiind grindgrind. Grind grind grind. Lay on a bit of the first can of gloss paint I had to hand. One ripple and a couple dinks. About three pounds of filler for that. Why?! I'm pulling all the damn filler out and starting over. Nonsense. Phil
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Also, sad that straight-outta-the-rattle-can-blue has better gloss than the "professional" mauve...
I like that blue on it, too.
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Oh man, I wish I'd known that the rocker cams were sided before I'd rebuilt my first head. Would have saved me 3 months of grief.. That engine noise with just the manifolds on made me smile. Now I want some muscle* in my life. Those strip discs are great for taking the tops off welds, too. The poly discs are better for taking paint and filler off without sanding the metal to sharp points though.
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I'd avoid using flap discs to remove paint - they take too much metal off as well. As said polystrip discs are excellent at removing paint without hurting the metal underneath.
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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May 19, 2021 11:33:58 GMT
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Your car, your choice. but if you are doing a respray I would lean towards an era correct hue, something like the Citron Gold. Also, it will hide a less than perfect body... I would definitely daily this car...with a 440.... Nice work Phil. P.
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May 19, 2021 12:14:07 GMT
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I'd avoid using flap discs to remove paint - they take too much metal off as well. As said polystrip discs are excellent at removing paint without hurting the metal underneath. Case of what the store had. Plus, the flapwheel was good here because I did want to take a little bit of metal in some areas as the guy has fillered over rust.. I am going to take it all down with my DA and even it out, then work on balancing it. The left hand side looks like it was sanded down by the previous guy with a house brick.
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Last Edit: May 19, 2021 12:22:32 GMT by PhilA
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May 19, 2021 12:32:10 GMT
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Your car, your choice. but if you are doing a respray I would lean towards an era correct hue, something like the Citron Gold. Also, it will hide a less than perfect body... I would definitely daily this car...with a 440.... Nice work Phil. P. I don't like ZZ1 to be honest. I am leaning towards a flat color though, despite most of the palette being metallics in '66. The brighter colors started to appear by about '68, the '66 color set was very subdued. I do plan on getting the bodywork straight on this though, so it should be able to accept anything I throw at it. I'm tempted by black interior, mauve body, cream roof. But, that is subject to change with the direction of the wind. Phil
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Last Edit: May 19, 2021 13:04:40 GMT by PhilA
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May 20, 2021 20:29:20 GMT
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Just ordered a bunch of polycarbide wheels, they should be in soon.
I need to continue stripping out the interior but it's hot outside and really muggy.
Phil
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May 20, 2021 20:42:12 GMT
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Just ordered a bunch of polycarbide wheels, they should be in soon. I need to continue stripping out the interior but it's hot outside and really muggy. Phil Weather is a valid excuse.
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Weather is a valid excuse. Well, it's been 22-24C and 60-odd percent humidity since February, suddenly it's 30-35C and 85-90% rH... That's a hell of a change, and it's been bringing the flooding locally. Makes working in the garage, even late into the evening quite unpleasant and sweaty. In the summer, it's the rain I only get a couple hours a day maximum garage time, and that's often after 9pm.
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May 21, 2021 12:52:56 GMT
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Rain, rain, rain. I decided to do something to the car last night. So to continue a theme, out came the clock. I wanted to see if it would still run. No such luck, totally dead. So I took it apart. Inside it was actually quite clean. The escapement was bent, along with one of the pallets. I fixed that and lubricated it. I was rewarded by the clock starting to run for the first time in however long it had been sat. The electrical side of it is just an electromagnet that winds the main spring periodically. That was showing open circuit. Yup, that looks a bit crispy. Looks like the clock jammed up, the points stuck on and the electromagnet overheated. So, I bashed it apart and unwound the wire which was totally unfit for purpose any more. 212 turns of 28 AWG wire, so I've ordered a spool of that and will hopefully be able to rewind the form. I might add a thermistor to it for in case it jams again- as it heats up, the resistance rises and kills the amount of current flowing, preventing it from self destructing. Quite happy though that I pushed the winder round and the clock began to run this morning on the bench. Phil
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Last Edit: May 21, 2021 12:54:27 GMT by PhilA
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May 21, 2021 12:59:50 GMT
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That...is incredible. I totally need to take more stuff apart instead of searching for replacements...
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