1967 Ford Anglia LOL,,,THE ONE WITH 69's ON THE SIDE

[Jonny69]

Mar 21, 2023 17:04:09 GMT jimi said:

I've never been able to successfully solder nichrome wire, I've always had to resort to crimping, which normally works if you use uninsulated hi-temp crimps. I believe spot welding works but never had the equipment to try it with.

Yeah I feared that’s probably the case. We’ve actually got a miniature spot welder at work for making tiny thermocouples but I can’t figure out a good way of getting it in there without blowing the wire to pieces. I’m wondering if that bodgy method with a big battery and a pair of stout nails would work. Only needs to do one joint. I wonder if the BMS in my Makita batteries cuts out if it sees a short?

[jimi]

Not sure I'd want to try the battery/nails welding method with lithium or nicad battery pack, possibly better with a lead/acid battery (as in car battery, designed for high current discharge) 😉

[Jonny69]

I've now also checked out some other senders to see if they're similar. Closest is A40 Farina (looks identical) but for some bizarre reason they're also ££££. However, I've managed to find a universal sender for a bit cheaper. £21.59 is a bit more reasonable for something that might not work.

What I need to do next is check the resistance range is compatible. It seems to be 200 Ohms for the universal ones and this Zodiac sender is 300 Ohms. I don't know what the stock Anglia one is. I have a bundle of 47 Ohm resistors from another project that I can use to test this. Essentially I just want to check that 200 Ohms will be enough for the gauge to read empty. Zero resistance is full. Theoretically I should be able to set the float height by bending the wire so the 'empty' position on the gauge is when there is a gallon or so left in the tank. I can probably do that by measuring the depth of the tank and working out what height of fuel relates to a gallon. I can check where the float sits in the top of the fuel by checking it in a basin of water. The densities of petrol and water are fairly close so it won't be far out.

[Jonny69]

Strung up a load of 47 Ohm resistors to make 300 Ohms in total to fake up what the Zodiac gauge did. Grounded one end and I could then connect the gauge wire from zero up to 300 Ohms at 47 Ohm intervals.



At 200 Ohms the gauge reads here, which looks pretty acceptable as an ‘empty’ point:



So that’s good news. Forgot to take a tape measure to measure the depth of the tank. Pretty sure the 4” sender is the one I want, but I want to double check.

[CaptainSlog]

Although pricy there is this solution to allow the use of the "wrong" sender

spiyda.com/gauge-electronics/the-gauge-wizard.html

[Jonny69]

Something I'm toying with the idea of is replacing the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one. In daily use, the mechanical pump is fine, but if you leave the car to stand for any period of time the fuel drains back into the tank and you have to crank for ages to get the fuel back up. The mechanical pumps are hopeless at pulling the fuel back up and the battery invariably takes a hammering during the process. When I'm re-commissioning after the car has been standing, I usually pull the pipe off the carb and suck the fuel up myself to prime everything.

When I ran an engine with no pump lobe on the cam, I ran this Facet pump:



I noticed the car was MUCH easier to start because the fuel was always primed and the carbs filled properly before cranking. I fitted it in a bit of a hurry and it was actually mounted on a stand-off welded to the pump blanking plate on the side of the block. It worked fine but I was never 100% happy because I was concerned with the vibrations and heat coming from being directly mounted to the block. It's a lift pump, so being at the front is also not ideal though not a problem. This time round I'd ideally like to put it at the back of the car. There is literally nowhere to put it back there though, where it won't be in the way of the tank, suspension or the axle. So I think it'll have to stay at the front.

Up front, same story. I can't see anywhere to put it that I can physically get to, especially to drill any holes. I think where I put it was probably because that's all I could do with the engine in place. There are a couple of advantages of where it is though:
-It's easily accessible and I can get spanners on it
-It's right next to the wiring it needs
-It doesn't transmit any noise through the bodywork (it's a clicky pump and even rubber mounts won't stop it clacking away)

So my plan for now is to stick it back where it was but to put it on a couple of rubber cotton reels to isolate it from the engine. I think this will be fine.

________________________________________________

Tank / sender calculations

Tank dimensions (mm):
570 x 380 x 150 deep at gauge, 120 at back:



Radius approx 35 all round

Sender dimensions:
Arm length from pivot to centre of float: 100mm
Bottom of flange to pivot point: 38mm
Float diameter: 30mm

So the total from the bottom of the flange to the bottom of the float is around 153mm, which is more than the depth of the tank. Give or take, it would read zero when the float made contact with the bottom of the tank, so that's probably why it ran out of fuel when the needle touched the red on the gauge. Some quick tank calculations will give me an approximation of the depth of fuel needed.

First up need a rough idea how much volume the radius around the bottom of the tank takes up. Switching to cm for these calculations as it makes converting to litres easier:



That suggests it takes up about 0.5 litres.

Volumes of the respective parts of the tank:



So about 30.8 litres, minus two lots of 0.5 litres if brimmed is about 30 litres give or take. From memory, the tank is 7 gallons which is 31.8 litres so I'm in the right ballpark.

The bottom 3cm of the tank holds 1.6 + 3.25 - 0.5 = 4.35 litres. Would like another litre in there at 'empty', ideally.

Upper part of the tank 57 x 38 x 1cm = 2166cc = 2.2 litres, so a litre equates to around 0.5cm depth.

Back to working in mm now. Total depth of fuel with 5 litres in the tank is therefore around 35mm.

Someone check that please. There's a green pen in the stationery cupboard if you need one.

When the sender arrives, I can measure the approximate depth the float sits, measure the length from the top, then put a suitable bend in the wire to suit.

[kevins]

Could you put the pump in the bottom of the spare wheel well and lay the spare flat (probably doesen't fit anyway)

[Jonny69]

Mar 29, 2023 14:16:45 GMT kevins said:

Could you put the pump in the bottom of the spare wheel well and lay the spare flat (probably doesen't fit anyway)

I don't currently carry a spare, but if I put the pump there I'd have to run the fuel line into the car and back out again. If I put it on the bottom it will be too low and will get hit by split speedbumps etc. No space on the front or back due to the chassis crossmember and the tank. It's actually way more convenient up front and since the pump is designed for front mounting I'm going to give it a crack and see how it survives.

[Jonny69]

A slightly frustrating couple of hours in the garage, but productive. I offered up the fuel pump on the rubber bobbins and the poxy thing didn’t clear the steering box. There was no way round this. I’d made the stand-off on the blanking plate specifically so you could still get the bolts in without swearing, so shortening it wasn’t possible. That meant the only option was to revisit mounting it at the back.

Much wriggling around under the car and trying to work out where the holes would poke through in the boot later, I decided on a spot. Bit the bullet and drilled two holes. This is what I got:



It’s way too close to the handbrake mechanism. However, if I lose the one-way valve it is plenty clear so I think it’s a win. It probably doesn’t need it now anyway since the pump is lower and right by the tank. Just need to figure out a way of running power down to it now. The existing loom runs up the A pillar and over the door. I won’t be able to feed anything through there with the headliner in place so I’ll have to go along the floor and probably behind the interior panels in the back.

[fiat127pt]

I have the same exact fuel pump on my 127 for years now, and I have to say it's an amazing upgrade for anyone wanting to daily their classics, makes them way easier to start and overall more reliable!

Good pick and good luck with your Anglia!

[Jonny69]

Well that sounds like good news, cheers for that.

[daddyshortlegs]

How noisy is that fuel pump?

[kevins]

Same one on my elan too, mounted straight to the body but not noisy, GRP does deaden sound better than steel though.

Works a treat.

[Jonny69]

While I was under the back I remembered I needed to replace the handbrake mech hanger on the back of the axle. It's bolted to the axle on one side and the mech on the other, with a thick canvas sandwich in the middle to allow for some movement. Mine rotted through years ago and I always had a thick cable tie holding it together. I found a replacement at some point at the NSRA swap meet but it wasn't identical to the original and needed a bit of modification. For whatever reason I didn't do it when the axle was last off the car and a couple of the bolt heads were well rounded and needed grinding off, which I couldn't get to with the tank on the car. Tank is off at the mo so I'm dealing with it. Managed to actually get one of the bolts off, so that's now only one I need to cut.

The hanger isn't identical. The original had an extra 90° bracket rivetted on. I drilled out the rivets and opened up the holes to suit a pair of M6 button heads which won't get in the way of assembling the dome-top bolt that holds it on the handbrake mech. Here it is loosely assembled and I'll sort the final fit once it's on, as it sort of slides into a slot and I can't remember which way round it goes.

[ducklooker]

Thats a cool wee Anglia

[Jonny69]

Thanks ducklooker.

Slightly frustrating couple of hours on the car today - but a little bit of progress. The existing fuel line is 6mm but the 8mm unions on the pump had to be rammed into it. Tank and carb ends are also 6mm, so I bought some 6mm unions to go with the new 6mm fuel line. I went for the cheaper 2192 Cohline stuff rather than the full-fat 2240, which still claims to be E10 resistant. That all arrived today which was good.

Mods to the sender didn’t quite go to plan. I just needed to put a couple of bends in the rod, but it made the joint come loose where it was swaged in. I gave it a whack with a punch to re-secure it and that seized the whole thing up. Grrr. Then I decided to take it apart, opened the pivots up a bit with a 4mm drill and spent an hour trying to get it back together and get the wiper in the right position.





I did eventually get it good again. Next issue is the stud on top for the sender wire touches the bodywork ie it shorts out the output. Pretty sure I’ll be able to just cut it down to make it clear. And then I had a better look at how to get power down to the pump. I pulled a long wire through and found what looks like a spare terminal on the ignition switch. This is convenient and should work fine.

So I’m getting pretty close. Something I want to do before putting the tank back on is just wire brush a couple of bits and whack a bit of underseal on. Then I’m happy to put it all back together.

[Rob M]

I'm always massively impressed by people who know their way around auto electrics.
Top work there, wish I had your talent!

[Jonny69]

Hello, what’s this outside my house?



Full day in the garage today. Started with the handbrake mech mount on the back of the axle. The rounded bolt head was a sod to cut through, but I eventually got through it. The new mount didn’t quite fit and needed a hole opening up a bit and slotting. Once that was done I had this:



While I was doing that, I noticed the rear exhaust mount had eaten itself. It was never a great fit because it went through an existing hole which wasn’t quite in the right place. I put a new rubber cotton reel on, put another bend in the mount and drilled a new hole in the floor. Still not brilliant but it fits much better now:



Then I fitted the new fuel line front to back, gave the underside of the boot floor and the tank a wire brush and a fresh coat of underseal, and faffed about getting the tank back on. Last job was to wire up the new electric pump. Stuck a few litres of fresh fuel in, let it prime itself and it started straight up on the first turn. On the first turn folks, a 50 year old engine that hasn’t been run for 10 months!

So I’m pretty pleased with the new pump. I’ll need to get underneath it again at some point because it’s got a very slight fuel leak at the pump. Also, my new tank sender looks a bit like it might be reading backwards. I’ll need to run the tank down a bit to confirm…

[Jonny69]

One of the J69x10^-1s was sick in the night so no nursery run for me this morning. I took the opportunity to drive this to work. Didn't miss a beat. Mad to think the last time I actually drove this anywhere other than to the petrol station was in 2018. Pictured here outside the abandoned wind tunnel building at work which is due to be demolished soon.

[Jonny69]

Rare opportunity to do a bank holiday weekend wash. From this:





To this:



I didn’t bother cutting or waxing. The paint is absolutely trashed and it would need flatting back again before polishing. It’s got a few scrapes and scabs due to the ravages of time, a few crashes, a fire and the fact that it was cheap curse word paint. I just doused the whole thing with a heavy spray of Demon Shine using the logic that it might lightly nourish the surface of the paint and it’ll help stop too much curse word from the garage roof sticking.