1939 Morris Eight V8

[owen]

Nothing much happened on the car, I have been knocking down a wall to make my drive easier to access.

I have collected some box section to start strengthening bits of the chassis



The headlights that fit in the wings



1 more slot mags



And most importantly the tandem fuel pump off the rolls royce



I also got given the original log book for the car from when it was new, the reg is different to the reg on the car now, although my v5c doesn't say anything about it not being a transferable reg, so maybe the reg was changed when it was converted to a hot rod originally. Need to crack on it the new year

[jjp666]

lightbulbfun is your man for dvla queries

[glenanderson]

I sold a few registrations back in the late 90s, early 00s, and normally the V5 would come back with the new age-related number and the clear statement “non-transferable”; but a couple of times it didn’t have that on it. Both times I was able to transfer the age related one as well. Bonus. I think it was a glitch at the time, back when there was still a human element in the process, and inspections were carried out at local offices.

[owen]

Small update, we went over to Iceland for Christmas so haven't been in the garage a while, then we collected a jimny for my sons first car, had to make some tweaks to it, straighten the steering wheel, adjust the clutch, check the spark plugs ect. So only just got back to the morris, I decided to make a rubber grommet for the wiper lever to come through the bulkhead, I used a large tyre valve 20mm one, and machined the correct grove in it so it sit tight in the bulkhead



Got this little lathe which will come in handy for a few little jobs



Then I started trying to sort the gear selector, I was given a bmw one which hasn't worked out, then I swapped the original linkage around so it's above the pivot point instead of below. This means I can make my own shifter rat style using a bit of round bar





It's a bit long at the moment but you can get the idea.

I need to work out how I am going to lift the body off next

[owen]

Yesterday I managed to buy some new wheels, a set of 5 18s, not sure if I will run full set yet or just 2 on rear.








Tyres are 255/60/18 I can drop to 235/60/18 and keep a decent height tyre. I will play with the front and see what I decide

[owen]

Gear selector progress, I found an old shock Bush metal insert in the boxes of junk I have, it's about 4mm walled with an 8mm hole up it, I got to play with the lathe, I machined the 10mm round down to 8mm so its a quite a tight fit





Then I tapped the gear linkage to 12mm, ran a bolt down it. Then cross drilled the 2 gearstick and the bush parts.
I then welded the old shock Bush part to the head of the 12mm bolt





I made it like this so it can be taken apart easy without having to take the tunnel out, I then did some measuring and cut the slot in the tunnel.



Next I need to make a splash cover, probably us some rubber mat and make 2 brackets so it slides along the under side of the tunnel. Also need to make a neutral lock and a park lock, I might design a cable operated mechanism to lock it at neutral and park

[owen]

Ordered lots of new bits and they have started to arrive,
Hydro handbrake which is going to have a set of small alloy 2 pot Calipers mounted on top of the disc



12v compressor to start the air suspension setup, this is a very basic setup just 2 pump/exhaust buttons one for front and one for rear for now



Some stainless rivets to start getting floors and stuff fixed



Lots more bits on route, so will be cracking on soon

[owen]

Started a quick mockup, should be enough space for the handbrake



Not going to get much shopping in the boot though 😂

[owen]

More new bits, v8 defender engine mounts £10 a pair, rolls ones were £60 each second hand so I will make these work

[owen]

Classic mini yellow tag master cylinder, this is designed with 2 differen bore sizes 0.7" front 0.75" rear so should give a decent brake balance

[owen]

Drill powered rivet gun, was £9.16, so will see if its any good soon



This is the Calipers I will use for hand brake

[owen]

Rivnut kit arrived, will be a handy tool I feel

[owen]

Had some time in the garage tonight, an hour finding a roll of brake pipe I knew I had. threw the master cylinder in loose and there's enough space for it, will get a photo when I remember, then onto the gearbox mount that is not there, tried a load of different bolts in the holes not knowing what thread it is. Then came up with the wise idea of trying the land rover mount in it, turns out there the same thread



So this makes things easier, so the plan is, when my angle gauge turns up, set the ride height some where near the angle I want it. Then set the transmission flange angle and make the box mounts. Make the 2 engine mounts up thst are broken using the landy mounts. Set the pinion angle and finish welding the rear end up.

Then move the front axle forward 12 inches. Then we are getting close

[owen]

Few more goodies brake tees, master cylinder clevis, Hydro unions



Angle meter



Alternator belt



10mm wheel spacers to pull the rear wheels out a little

[ducklooker]

Jan 17, 2024 11:28:20 GMT owen said:

More new bits, v8 defender engine mounts £10 a pair, rolls ones were £60 each second hand so I will make these work

I used these on a Mk1 escort as "ford" ones were 3x the price....

[kevins]

Probably won't be much of an issue for you but when I used the pattern ones on my Range Rover they were noticibly harsher than the originals.

[owen]

Jan 18, 2024 19:21:54 GMT kevins said:

Probably won't be much of an issue for you but when I used the pattern ones on my Range Rover they were noticibly harsher than the originals.

The other engine mount option was to bolt it solid, so anything should be better than that😂

[owen]

Came into a bit of a problem possibly, the gearbox out put was sat really bad, I have lifted the box around 6 inches to get it to 3.5 degrees of flange angle.



I can't find any solid details on the angle it should run at, but the carburettor tops sit level at that



Problem is, the transmission is a big lump to hide in this tiny cabin as it is. I think it was running at 6 degrees initially, which to me seems a lot.

Options are drop the engine an inch or 2 to counteract the output shaft angle?
How many degrees can I get away with since the back axle is designed to run at 0

[kevins]

Everyone has a different opinion and it's dependant on factors like the prop length and RPM I would suggest an absolute max of 5 degrees and idealy around 3 max, you also don't want zero as the joints wear out quicker aim for a minimun of around 1/2 degree.

Oh and remember it's not just the angles of the diff and gearbox, the relative heights affect the angle too.

[colnerov]

I always understood that the flanges should be parallel with each other but not inline because as said the joints can 'freeze'. So offset either up or down or left to right is OK. If not, phasing the joints can help if there are vibrations.