|
|
|
Oct 23, 2024 21:14:50 GMT
|
Here it is in primer:       Next job is to carry on with the fibreglass repairs to the bonnet. blackpopracing, you mentioned flowcoat over on your thread for repairing cracks in gelcoat but what about where a large area is missing and its been repaired with matting and resin? I've been reading about this and I more confused thasn ever as to whether I need to/can gelcoat this or whether just bdyfiller and then primer is acceptable? |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2024 23:24:58 GMT
|
|
Any reason why the next step would not be to topcoat the undersides, passenger compartment and engine bay while the epoxy is still "open"? Those bits are no fun at all to go back and scuff for paint at a later date.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Any reason why the next step would not be to topcoat the undersides, passenger compartment and engine bay while the epoxy is still "open"? Those bits are no fun at all to go back and scuff for paint at a later date. I need to do the bodywork in these areas for the welded areas etc before I can paint them. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2024 22:47:07 GMT
|
|
|
| |
|
|
goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,889
|
|
Oct 28, 2024 11:25:45 GMT
|
|
Body is looking great in primer 🙂
I don't envy you with the fibreglass fixes, composites is a whole other world of challenges! And new flavours of dust! haha.
With the bonnet alignment, how does it locate at the back edge? Some cars use things like rubber cones and concave seats to help alignment, not relying purely on the shape of the potentially flexible pace to come back into line, but giving it a way sort sort of 'lock' into place so that when it's latched down the shut lines and corners always end up in exactly the same place.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2024 14:11:09 GMT
|
Body is looking great in primer 🙂 I don't envy you with the fibreglass fixes, composites is a whole other world of challenges! And new flavours of dust! haha. With the bonnet alignment, how does it locate at the back edge? Some cars use things like rubber cones and concave seats to help alignment, not relying purely on the shape of the potentially flexible pace to come back into line, but giving it a way sort sort of 'lock' into place so that when it's latched down the shut lines and corners always end up in exactly the same place. The bonnet lands on the rear lip/channel that has a rubber seal across the full width. I had to trim the seal down to get it aligned, once it's pulled in with the catches on the side it seems to be fairly stable. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2024 22:58:26 GMT
|
Today I've started work on the rear wing, I sanded the primer with an 80 grit disc to provide a key and then started to fill it. I'm using UPOL Fantastic which seems good so far:    I can't really find a definitive answer on how to deal with the larger fibreglass repairs so I've started to fill those as well:  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2024 13:12:12 GMT
|
You should not use cardboard to mix filler - the oils in the cardboard leech out and contaminate the filler. Buy an Onion board (like a thick paper pad you tear sheets off) from your local motor factors instead. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2024 22:49:17 GMT
|
You should not use cardboard to mix filler - the oils in the cardboard leech out and contaminate the filler. Buy an Onion board (like a thick paper pad you tear sheets off) from your local motor factors instead. I've been mixing filler on cardboard for the last 30 years without issue, I cant imagine its suddenly going to start being a problem now. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I was always told not to mix on cardboard as the oil in the filler soaks into the card, making it go stiff and harder to work and go off quicker.
That said I've always done it anyway, though I do tend to use the shiny side of cereal boxes.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2024 10:30:40 GMT
|
|
You're progress is fantastic, I feel your pain doing bodywork it seems like it's never ending!
|
| |
1966 Ford Cortina GT
2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2024 10:34:35 GMT
|
You should not use cardboard to mix filler - the oils in the cardboard leech out and contaminate the filler. Buy an Onion board (like a thick paper pad you tear sheets off) from your local motor factors instead. I've been mixing filler on cardboard for the last 30 years without issue, I cant imagine its suddenly going to start being a problem now. Don't shoot the messenger, I'm only advising ther correct way to do it. Other ways may work as well but at least people can make informed decisions if they know how it should be done. |
| |
|
|
glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,361
Club RR Member Number: 64
|
|
Oct 31, 2024 10:57:27 GMT
|
|
Buy a Land-Rover. Filler becomes a thing of the past. 🤣
|
| |
My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
|
|
75swb
Beta Tester
Posts: 1,052
Club RR Member Number: 181
|
|
|
|
Buy a Land-Rover. Filler becomes a thing of the past. 🤣 What else am I meant to fix my chassis with? |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2024 22:42:22 GMT
|
I've had a couple of weeks off with a bad case of man flu leading to a chest infection.
I'm starting to feel a bit better so thought some filler dust might be just what the doctor ordered 
I've been doing a few bits on the bonnet:
II've also had a quick look at the dents in the rear panel, some are dents in between two points (where I've sanded through the primer), others are dents out from the inside.
If anyone wants a hot investment tip, buy shares in Upol!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 19, 2024 23:18:21 GMT
|
|
I've always followed Miles Wklkins process(he wrote a good book on fiberglass repairs) and cut the surface back below the cracked gel coat, tissued over the area then filled smooth, areas I did 30 years ago on the elan have not cracked again.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2024 19:11:51 GMT
|
I've always followed Miles Wklkins process(he wrote a good book on fiberglass repairs) and cut the surface back below the cracked gel coat, tissued over the area then filled smooth, areas I did 30 years ago on the elan have not cracked again. Where the cracks are only in the gelcoat I've ground them out with a dremel and then used flowcoat (as recommended by blackpopracing) to fill the grove.
Where the crack goes right through I've ground the back up and then laid 2-3 layers of matting on the back with resin and then when dry I've ground the front and done the same. Finally I've ground the front up when dry and then used a skim of filler to level.
Hopefully that will be sufficient but time will tell :-)
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2024 22:06:46 GMT
|
I've been busy sanding this week but not too many pictures as its all very 'samey' looking when sanding filler
This is the scuttle mostly done:
I've also repaired the fibreglass over the nearside headlight:
I've also repaired the fiberglass on the front valence which will hopefully complete the fibreglass repairs:
Finally I've started the filling on the offside rear wing.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2024 22:46:10 GMT
|
|
I see there are some struts bonded into the bonnet - they will help to keep it in shape. But I realise that one of my fibre glass bonnets I bought new in 1970 from DJ Sportscars (who became Dax I believe) so it has lasted 54 years (and been repaired after a slight front end crash!). It has also been used as part of my Comp Altered shell so, well used over many years, it is now on my V8 Sprite.
You are doing great work and it is all positive from now on.
|
| |
Last Edit: Nov 24, 2024 22:46:59 GMT by flyingphil
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I see there are some struts bonded into the bonnet - they will help to keep it in shape. But I realise that one of my fibre glass bonnets I bought new in 1970 from DJ Sportscars (who became Dax I believe) so it has lasted 54 years (and been repaired after a slight front end crash!). It has also been used as part of my Comp Altered shell so, well used over many years, it is now on my V8 Sprite. You are doing great work and it is all positive from now on. Yes, these are 20mm conduit that I bent to shape, welded together and the bonded in.
The bonnet went from being a hopelessly floppy thing (relatively) to being fairy sold and always landing in the same place.
I would say the bonnet is now more solid that a steel one.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
