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An extra piece will be added below, and I think an aluminium grille off the series one p6's painted black would finish it off just fine ;D Oh yeah, I've bought some more paint and set the compressor up so I can continue spraying, yee ha! you should do a rear diffuser to match, now that would be awesome. ;D
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jun 25, 2009 12:21:17 GMT
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this is an epic build I was sceptical at first but it really looks the billy boll*cks now, all it needs is a decent lump of Detroit iron (or ally) under the bonnet to give it some real grunt... How about a buick 455 engine to keep the rover/buick theme going, would 420bhp and 500lb/ft get it shifting... [glow=red,2,300]CHEVY LS1[/glow]I've roughly measured an LS1 recently, and it looks to have very similar dimensions to the rover lump, and if my cashflow remains good, there is a very high chance of an ls1 going in
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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Jun 25, 2009 12:35:12 GMT
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That would be beyond awesome......
nothing more needs saying..
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The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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Jun 25, 2009 13:09:54 GMT
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What an awesome project!
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FJSigma
1989 Volkswagen VW1500 (The argentinian Avenger)
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jun 25, 2009 22:05:53 GMT
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hey can you give me some more specs on the diff like what car it is from... there are a lot of jag diffs out there and is it an lsd and powerlock? thanks tom It's now a powerlock/lsd (actually the same thing) using the case and 3.058 gears from a mid seventies XJS (I think) and the lsd unit is from an early S-type, but they're almost all a standard unit based on the american dana44 diff design, manufactured by Salisbury. hey is it possible to put the rover sd1 2600 engine in the p6? Contrary to popular belief, the p6 engine bay is really small. The chassis rails are close together, there is a hefty bulkhead behind the engine, which sits a long way forward, giving very little room lengthways for anything, which is probably why the p6 came as only a 4 pot and v8. That would be beyond awesome...... nothing more needs saying.. I'm seriously sold on the idea of an ls1. Practically, I must get this on the road first before I mess around with the engines too much more, and I need to start thinking about spending some money replacing my old daily/parts chaser (285k miles and counting ). Anyway, the front wings and valance have now been fully sprayed up in blue, just need some minor filling in some corners and flattening back a little to give a nice smooth topcoat. I'll probably leave the paint to go off for a bit and move back onto the rear arches and doors/wings next and get them finished (a bit of deja vu there, thought I'd got the arches sorted before lol) More pictures to follow when I remember to take the camera out with me
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Last Edit: Mar 18, 2018 16:10:29 GMT by sowen
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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With the drivers door off, I could get to the last rust hole (actually it was the only one on the car) and weld it up: With the doors progressing, I found all the door shut rubber assemblies, removed the old rubber from the aluminium strips, cleaned and painted the aluminium, and fitted fresh rubber to the strips: Then a package arrived, in the shape of a genuine rover rear door skin. I was never happy with the repair I did to the passenger door, so I've dug into my pockets and bought two new rear door skins. While I'm fitting them, I'm adding small 1 inch square steel tube along the centre, for rigity when the remaining skin gets cut off, and some extra protection in the event of a side impact, and modifying the door frame where it sits over the rear arch so I can relocate the door seal: The bar is just tacked in place to start with, and will be fully seamed in when the old skin gets removed. The door skin has been stripped to remove some tiny rust spots (must be at least 33 years old so I'm not complaining) and will be welded on when I find a sheet of the anti vibration stuff that was on the old door skin.
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Last Edit: Mar 18, 2018 16:32:09 GMT by sowen
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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The bar got fully welded to the rear face of the door frame first, then the door was refitted with all latch mechanism attached and adjusted so I could shut the door close to it's final position. Using a big adjustable spanner, I tweaked the allignment of the bar on the hinge side, so that the rear of the door frame alligned with the rear wing, and welded the front of the bar to the frame: After all this welding, I trial fitted the window frame and skin to see how well they fitted: New door skin just hanging in place: The fit of the frame and skin were good, and the frame is now very rigid, so I could then splash some paint over the panels prior to final assembly: With tape measure in hand, I transferred the measurements to the passenger rear door and replicated the bar fitting process: The drivers rear door is now waiting for the sound deadening mats to come through the post, and the passenger rear door requires full stripping and wheel arch modding before it too can be painted and re-skinned, then finally all trace of the original yellow will be gone ;D
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Last Edit: Mar 18, 2018 16:44:53 GMT by sowen
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Excellent work and some great progress
I am glued to this thread
Tony
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Last Edit: Mar 18, 2018 16:50:12 GMT by sowen
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Amazing work coming on really nicely and that front end looks outstanding.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 12, 2009 20:32:01 GMT
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New wheels... ...fitted... = happy Simon ;D
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Last Edit: Mar 18, 2018 16:52:53 GMT by sowen
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Speedle
Posted a lot
Need a Country Rock band in the Hampshire Area? https://www.facebook.com/DirtRoadDiaryUK
Posts: 2,221
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that car looks awesome!!!!! some amazing work!
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Colonelk
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,742
Club RR Member Number: 83
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this is really coming together now
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Davenger
Club Retro Rides Member
It's only metal
Posts: 7,272
Club RR Member Number: 140
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This is epic in it's awesomeness
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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Aug 13, 2009 10:21:16 GMT
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stunning! what are the wheels nicked from?
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The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 13, 2009 16:12:53 GMT
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stunning! what are the wheels nicked from? I'm led to believe a Chevy Blazer, of '79 vintage
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 15, 2009 20:01:25 GMT
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Things are slowly coming together after a long period of hard graft and no visible progress. Another parcel came through the post during the week in the shape of a series 1 aluminium grille set for a 2000. With a little trimming to the lower edge and to the outer end, they are now both roughly fitted in place: The gap in the middle will probably be filled in with pieces of steel to replicate the original Rover aluminium, then the whole lot will be sprayed black to match the wheels and bumpers. I've also been gathering parts for the rear brake, and finally got round to putting the Jaguar brake calipers through the blast cabinet at work so I could spray them up in red today: The Jaguar rear brake pads are the same size as the original front pads the car originally came with, so some work may be required to the braking system to reduce the effectivity of the rears. This could involve fitting a dual master cylinder and only having servo assistance on the front.
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Last Edit: Mar 18, 2018 16:59:32 GMT by sowen
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