1972 Rover P6 2300TC - Saab B234 Turbo

[sowen]

I probably spent about an hour this morning dressing the big hole I cut yesterday so it's profile matched the passenger side, and all the edges ready to weld a plate to. I didn't want to be burnt by mig splatter underneath the car so I turned back to the exhaust.

Using the new elbows and some existing ones I already had, I fabricated two up and over exhaust pieces, spent about an hour fetling them and tacking and fetling some more until they both fitted snugly between the front section and both cherrybombs, then run out of mig wire just as I was seam welding the second exhaust piece , but at least it was solid, so I culd fit them both:









I'm really pleased with how the exhaust fits, now the cars dropped back down on the ground so I can get on with the rest of it.

[sowen]

Today I thought I'd have a look at the front brakes and carry on from where I left off. I was having big problems with clearance between the range rover calipers and vented discs. I'd previously rebuilt the brake calipers from my donor car, and had them running on this one for a while, so dug them out and split the halves, wedged a nut between the two halves, nipped the bolts up and then spent ages disassembling and reassembling the hub/disc/caliper until everything lined up:









I've fitted the discs on the hubs temporarily with washers to get the correct offset and spacing in the caliper, and called a favour so hopefully a 7mm spacer will arrive sometime early next week. I've also made some phonecalls trying to hunt down a spacer kit for the rover 3-pot calipers so I'm planning on getting the uprated front brakes sorted by the end of next week. This should be fun as the heavily pitted v8 discs I had fitted before were vicious, nice clean vented discs should be fantastic when sorted ;D

With the front wheels off, I've taken a few more pictures of the chevy wheels and one against an original rover wheel:

[archieboy]

Wow! just had look through the whole built so far, its bleeding awesome

Great work, stuff i could only dream of

[sowen]

I had to do some welding on my brothers mini today, so the rover got booted out into the sunshine for a bit







;D

[Mephiston]

that looks mean, epic stance very nice

[sowen]

Cheers

Stance wise, the front sits about 1/2" higher at the front, and with the dropping roofline looks a bit pants. Either I raise the rear a little to make up the difference, or drop the front, or even possibly both? Not sure either way yet, but when the new engine goes in, it should pull the front down by possibly 1/2" - 1".

Now the bumpers are black, I don't know whether I should paint the chrome light surrounds black, or leave them shiny? It's one of those things that could work either way, but I've got a spare set of lights so I could always paint them and try it.

[Seth]

All looks fab!

[10mpg]

Awesome build................

It just gets better every time i look...

[sowen]

Thanks ;D

Work on it will slow down a bit now, as the mini seems to be taking up a bit more of my time now. I've been busy clearing out the interior today, ready so that I can tip it up on it's side to finish a bit of the welding underneath, and while I was at it, I've temporarilly fitted the numberplate, numberplate light and rear reflectors. I'm thinking the brightwork should stay now, as it contrasts well with the black bumpers, but I'm still undecided. I'll post some pictures later.

At the current rate of progress, I should be getting it mot'd sometime this year. Once that's done, I can turn my attention to building the engine

[blackpopracing]

Are you going to fit a balance pipe in the exhaust? improves torque at low revs no end.

[sowen]

Sept 27, 2009 18:14:10 GMT blackpopracing said:

Are you going to fit a balance pipe in the exhaust? improves torque at low revs no end.

I've read that balance pipes do work on true twin systems, but surely it shouldn't make any difference on what I've built or am I missing something? Out of the 4-2-1 exhaust manifold goes a single 2" pipe that runs along the side of the gearbox and then sits centrally in the tunnel under the tailshaft, before it splits into twin 2" pipes that gardually seperate and go over the axle before exiting out of two cherrybombs either side of the boot out the back.

The plan will be to fit the v8, and run seperate pipes both sides, which will join with the existing twin rear pipes so I don't need to make another new exhaust to match the new engine. Both pipes will need bracing together so at least one balance pipe could easily be fitted somewhere in the tunnel. Is there a recommended size for the balance pipe if the whole system is made from 2" pipe?

[tolson]

That looks awsome I live the wheels and stance suits it down to the ground (no pun intended)

[Colonelk]

thats looking sweet man! hope the mini doesnt take you too long

[blackpopracing]

I've read that balance pipes do work on true twin systems, but surely it shouldn't make any difference on what I've built or am I missing something? Out of the 4-2-1 exhaust manifold goes a single 2" pipe that runs along the side of the gearbox and then sits centrally in the tunnel under the tailshaft, before it splits into twin 2" pipes that gardually seperate and go over the axle before exiting out of two cherrybombs either side of the boot out the back.

The plan will be to fit the v8, and run seperate pipes both sides, which will join with the existing twin rear pipes so I don't need to make another new exhaust to match the new engine. Both pipes will need bracing together so at least one balance pipe could easily be fitted somewhere in the tunnel. Is there a recommended size for the balance pipe if the whole system is made from 2" pipe?

Ah, my mistake, thought the V8 was already in and twin pipes were run through.
When you fit the true twin system, its best to fit the balance pipe as close to the engine as practical, this is usually somewhere around the gearbox area. 2" system should have 2" pipe ideally, but min 1.5". Or you could just siamese them for a few inches if space allows.

[sowen]

Sept 29, 2009 19:28:28 GMT blackpopracing said:

I've read that balance pipes do work on true twin systems, but surely it shouldn't make any difference on what I've built or am I missing something? Out of the 4-2-1 exhaust manifold goes a single 2" pipe that runs along the side of the gearbox and then sits centrally in the tunnel under the tailshaft, before it splits into twin 2" pipes that gardually seperate and go over the axle before exiting out of two cherrybombs either side of the boot out the back.

The plan will be to fit the v8, and run seperate pipes both sides, which will join with the existing twin rear pipes so I don't need to make another new exhaust to match the new engine. Both pipes will need bracing together so at least one balance pipe could easily be fitted somewhere in the tunnel. Is there a recommended size for the balance pipe if the whole system is made from 2" pipe?

Ah, my mistake, thought the V8 was already in and twin pipes were run through.
When you fit the true twin system, its best to fit the balance pipe as close to the engine as practical, this is usually somewhere around the gearbox area. 2" system should have 2" pipe ideally, but min 1.5". Or you could just siamese them for a few inches if space allows.

No probs mate, it's easier for me to get everything ready now before dropping the v8 in, and then needing to re-engineer parts of it again. I need an exhaust hanger around the gearbox crossmember because it bangs on it now when I move the car, so I think that's where the balance pipe will probably go. Just need to lay underneath it to work it all out.

[sowen]

I really haven't had much time to touch the rover over the past month or so. My daily driver mondeo started to break every few weeks, and with work commitments, the rover went on the backburner.

That hasn't stopped me doing a few little jobs though for a little mojo boost. With some of the interior going back together, and the cabin now sealed, and two threads in the general board about steering wheels and steering wheel covers, I thought I'd do something with the wheel. I'd been looking for a while for something that'd be suitable in a smaller size than the 16" original, and the sportier looking 15.5" wheel I've had fitted from my old 3500s spare arts car.

Most aftermarket wheels are either woodrim or chunky leather, with a huge ugly centre boss. A little thinking out of the box, I decided to stick with the genuine rover wheel, but make it smaller . I stripped the old cover and manky original cover underneath, and cut the rim off the two spokes. I cut 4 1/2 inches out of the rim and welded it all back together, resprayed the spokes and boss, then covered the rim with 10mm petrol hose, and then fitted my lace up vinyl steering wheel cover ;D .





The smaller diameter is subtle and fits in well with the black interior. It has such a 70's feel to it now, and cost only a few quid for the petrol hose and cover kit ;D .

[Knugcab]

Great idea!

[richw82]

Awesome work so far!

Do you think you'll have any clearance issues with the V8? Depending on who you talk to at Rover P6 meets some say it will go straight in no problems; some say no way, as the inner wings are a different shape.

Regards,

Ric

[sowen]

Nov 1, 2009 11:51:03 GMT richw82 said:

Awesome work so far!

Do you think you'll have any clearance issues with the V8? Depending on who you talk to at Rover P6 meets some say it will go straight in no problems; some say no way, as the inner wings are a different shape.

Regards,

Ric

Yeah I've heard and been told that one too. The chassis legs on series two p6's like my one are the same I believe between the v8 and 2000. My 2000 front crossmember has the cutout for the v8 oil filter, and the chassis legs have the cutouts for the v8 downpipes. I've already fitted the v8 specific parts of the inner wings into my shell to relocate the brake servo, so I have no worries about that. I know it will be tight around the rear of the engine bay around the steering box and idler because the 2000 models have slightly larger reinforcing uprights from the lower rear tie rod, but that's a simple issue of channeling if it's an issue.

I've also rebuilt the front brake calipers, and fitted spacers to clear the vented discs, and fitted the spacers to the vented discs to put them in the correct place for the calipers (been a long time now but finally back together ). Just need some more brake line fittings then the front brakes WILL be bled and tested.

[xbo11ox]

wow those calipers are so bright they have started to upset your camera!