MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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^^ Yeah, that's correct. It is a little confusing when just looking at a 2D photo Anyway, I've just finished the 3 into 1 collector;   This now finishes in 2 1/2" diameter, so, the rest of the original 2 1/8" system will now probably be removed and an evil plan is forming for a new one. That will most likely be a 2 1/2" diameter 'cherry bomb' and little else. possibly exiting just in front of the offside rear wheel 
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,841
Club RR Member Number: 71
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^^ Yeah, that's correct. It is a little confusing when just looking at a 2D photo Anyway, I've just finished the 3 into 1 collector;   This now finishes in 2 1/2" diameter, so, the rest of the original 2 1/8" system will now probably be removed and an evil plan is forming for a new one. That will most likely be a 2 1/2" diameter 'cherry bomb' and little else. possibly exiting just in front of the offside rear wheel  nice work - going back to the pairings it's actually the same firing order as Monza 6 but when I was looking at a 6-3-1 and exhaust specialist said I'd be better off with 2 x 3 - 1 ( (1,2 & 3 grouped 3-1 and 4,5 & 6 grouped 3-1) I don't know why it would be better or worse that 3 x 2 - 1
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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General consensus is that a 631 system gives a broader range of torque and less peaky power output. I'd assume that the same principle applies to all sixes with the same firing order. Tbh, I probably won't notice any great difference as it has a peaky cam anyway. Lol
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Apr 12, 2015 23:22:08 GMT
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Well, it's been a little while, and not much has happened tbh. I've now given my Megasquirt to my tamed tech geek to finish off for me. I just couldn't get my head around it. I understand mechanical things, but not a blooody word of what they were saying about uploading the 'code' onto the 'daughterboard' etc. In the meantime, I've finally found some tyres for the rear wheels. They're not Michelins like I had before (I could only find new ones at around £200 each) but I did find a pair of Kumho Advan and they look the part in my eyes.  I'm hoping to get the completed ECU back in a couple of weeks time, so I can start on the EFI installation
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Jul 16, 2015 15:47:29 GMT
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Why oh why do we do these things?! Just taken the car for it's MOT (it passed) but it wasn't due until 22nd August (Date seem familiar?!) Well, with little more than 5 weeks before RRG'15 I've decided that now is a good time to tear apart a perfectly well running car and try to install a whole new fuel and ignition set up. Yes, I've finally got my  in gear and started on fitting the Megasquirt. Massively 'last minute dot com' I know, as I've been sitting on some of the parts for a couple of years now, but I'm going for it. EFI or bust!! On the plus side, because I won't be altering any of the current carb/dizzy set up but just removing it all wholesale, if it does go tits up, I should be able to just bolt it all back on to get running. And the MOT? Well, seeing as I've just done that, it's one less (massive) thing to worry about!
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,841
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Jul 16, 2015 20:39:37 GMT
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Why oh why do we do these things?! Just taken the car for it's MOT (it passed) but it wasn't due until 22nd August (Date seem familiar?!) Well, with little more than 5 weeks before RRG'15 I've decided that now is a good time to tear apart a perfectly well running car and try to install a whole new fuel and ignition set up. Yes, I've finally got my  in gear and started on fitting the Megasquirt. Massively 'last minute dot com' I know, as I've been sitting on some of the parts for a couple of years now, but I'm going for it. EFI or bust!! For me it was the reverse process - I took a perfect running driving fuel injection car and fitted triple sidedrafts and an old style swing dizzy We do it because we can and because we want to  On the plus side, because I won't be altering any of the current carb/dizzy set up but just removing it all wholesale, if it does go tits up, I should be able to just bolt it all back on to get running. And the MOT? Well, seeing as I've just done that, it's one less (massive) thing to worry about! I'm normally pretty good like that too - I MOT'd the Monza before I ripped out the 12V and installed the 24V - as you say one less worry and plenty of time to get the car right before the next MOT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,244
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jul 16, 2015 21:31:27 GMT
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Getting the Vitesse mot'd before the efi conversion is just too sensible  I really hope you get it done in time, took me less than a week from receiving my Megasquirt ecu and loom kit to getting the engine running with previous experience and all the leftovers to hand...
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Jul 16, 2015 21:51:16 GMT
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The mot is possibly one of the most forward thinking planning ideas I've ever had! Yes, I've 'lost' a months worth of mot, but it's worth it for peace of mind. sowen, I'll be happy if I get it done with a couple of days in hand before RRG I've got the manifolds all made, but I've got a lot more to do yet!
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Jul 17, 2015 11:53:34 GMT
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You didn't get a 13 month MOT?
How'd you get on with e 'squirt?
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Koos
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Jul 17, 2015 12:37:49 GMT
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You didn't get a 13 month MOT? How'd you get on with e 'squirt? No mate. I was about a week too early, but I wanted to get cracking with it! Well, I've got the ECU all built, and I've started reading a lot of stuff about it. Waiting for a USB adapter before I can start playing with it, but I'm concentrating on getting the hardware fitted up first 
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Jul 17, 2015 17:24:45 GMT
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Well, a little bit done yesterday and today. I've taken a perfectly useable, good running motor and, errrrr, dismantled it!   Looks nice inside the old manifold. A little sooty maybe (I always keep it on the rich side) but looking fairly healthy imo  Need some room in the engine bay for extra bits of hardware, so I'll be putting the battery in the boot. I've been thinking about doing that for a while anyways. So, swirl pot, coil pack (on newly made bracket) and high pressure pump laid out roughly in position]  And the new exhaust manifold (I had to adjust it a little) and inlet manifolds trial fitted with ITBs   Just a vary small modification to the buolkhead, but other than that, it fits in a treat  And TIG welded a stainless steel boss into the 3-1 collector for the O2 sensor 
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Jul 17, 2015 19:02:27 GMT
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Still pretty in pink I see :-) what were the bodies from?
I've got an old shittop with a serial port and Xp if you get stuck.....
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Koos
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Jul 17, 2015 19:15:00 GMT
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Still pretty in pink I see :-) what were the bodies from? They're Triumph. Ok, Triumph motorbike. 675 daytona I think
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Jul 24, 2015 17:59:36 GMT
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So, I've been getting a few bits done in the evenings. Not tonight though as I'm busy building an Ark!! Anyways, coilpack, swirl pot, high pressure pump and pressure regulator are now all mounted, as is the relay board underneath the dash. I also have a spot under there for the ecu which I'm starting to play with through TunerStudio. I have no idea wtf I'm doing with that yet! lol Fitted a water temp sensor and air temp sensor for the Megasquirt to read. I also needed a fuel rail of sorts. The throttle bodies have their own rail fitted, but that only does each bank of three. I also needed a return line to feed the pressure regulator. So, a couple of bits of copper pipe and brass strip, add a little silver solder and hey presto!  Next up is a return line back to tank, but that's a job for a day when we don't have rain of biblical proportions!
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Jul 25, 2015 22:35:31 GMT
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I might be teaching granny to suck eggs but a return line isn't necessary if you got a swirl pot.... Low pressure pump from tank to pot and high pressure from pot to fuel rail. After the regulator the fuel goes back in the pot. It can theoretically heat the fuel, but it means you have less high pressure fuel line to leak, split etc.
Manifolds look good. Did you fab them?
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Koos
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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It's not just heat soak that's a potential problem though. The idea of the swirl pot is to ensure there is no air in the fuel supply. Without a return to tank there is nowhere for any separated air to go, so it would just gather in the pot. Thus rendering it useless ;-)
Yes, All the manifolds were fabricated up by me :-)
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Last Edit: Jul 27, 2015 9:24:18 GMT by MrSpeedy
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Jul 29, 2015 21:26:16 GMT
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So, little update. Trigger wheel and CPS fitted;  Old battery tray repopulated with high pressure pump, swirl pot and coil pack;  And air temp sensor mounted;  Most of the wiring is now done. Just waiting for a connector for the coilpack. I think I've spent more on damned connectors than the ECU!  Now, to finish off the fuel system I needed to fit a return line from the swirl pot back to the tank. We are all (I hope) well aware of the hazards of modifying used fuel tanks, and I'm rather cautious myself when it comes to this. So, how do we get a return line into the tank without blowing myself up?! Well, I had what I consider to be something of an epiphany! (lol) I'm not sure what sparked it, but, "why not fit a 'RivNut' into the tank and screw a fitting into that?!" Well, why not indeed. The biggest nut my kit can handle is M10, so ordered some inserts and remachined a fitting to M10 one end and 1/4" compression on the other. One hole carefully drilled and RivNut fitted with 'Wellseal' sealant;  And one return line fitted; 
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stevietuck
Posted a lot
 
Never argue with idiots,they drag you down to their level then beat you with their expertise!
Posts: 1,348
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^ ^ ^ Now that is a clever idea.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,244
Club RR Member Number: 24
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^ ^ ^ Now that is a clever idea. +1, inspired! Love the throttle bodies 
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Ok, update time; To mount the battery in the boot, I needed some brackets, so knocked a pair of these up  Bolted down and wired up;  Ignition wiring and plumbing finished off;  So, to the exhaust. The new manifold bears no relation with the original system, so, I had to make a new one. New stainless braided flex welded to collector;  And a new length of 2 1/2" pipe 'adjusted' to fit as well as possible in the space available;  I had initially hoped to make it a side exit exhaust, just in front of the rear wheel, but there just isn't room to get the pipe across the car and still maintain some ground clearance, so it'll exit as per the original one with just a 'Cherry Bomb' on the end.  New accelerator cable made up and fitted;  Now, you may be wondering why there are two cables. Well, I'm not using any kind of Idle control valve with these throttle bodies, in an attempt to simplify things, so the second cable is the original choke cable, to give me a manual fast idle control
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