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An important subject I feel. After getting my pride stolen last weekend, I am in the process of upping the security at my house and on the car when I get it. My car did have an alarm and a single point / circuit immobilizer. I don't want people going into specifics and giving away on a public forum information that might put there car at risk.
The question is what method of security do you prefer? Electronic or Physical / visible. You can pay £100's if not £1000's for the latest whiz bang alarms. A lot of it being gimmicks like remote start. But unless a thief tries to steal your car (and probably does some damage in the process) they aren't going to know it has one till that point. Yes there might be stickers and flashing LED's in the dash but they can be fitted with out the presence of an alarm.
Where as big chains, bits of steel, are plainly visible, and scream "you better go and get a petrol grinder mucker" ;D
So far, my intentions are a 500w minimum flood light so they're in plain site, and criminals don't light bright light (bit like vampires).
CCTV - probably a point of contention this one, with the "hoodie" youth of today. My take is at least CCTV footage will demonstrate to the insurance the fun and games they had stealing the vehicle, and all the claimed anti theft devices where in place when the vehicle was stolen. So it removed a way for the insurance to wriggle out of payment
Concreted in metal post - fitted across the driveway. Can be cut out, but will make noise as long as it is of sufficient strength not to be beaten by bolt cutters. The same with ramming it, yanking it out with another vehicle. They will need another vehicle and it will make loads of noise.
Wheel clamp over one wheel - visual deterrent Steering wheel dis clock - visual deterrent
Baby monitor hidden in car - so any noise we hear, will be from either inside the car or very near to it.
Finally a thatcham approved alarm with immobilizer - I think the pain problem with alarms is that fitters fir them in the same locations, so the intension is to place it in a really hard / odd place. Remove dash and fit there? This will depend on the car. And the siren, I want the most ear bleeding noise I can obtain. So I KNOW this time I will wake up as will the whole street. If thief's start seeing bedroom lights coming on and curtains twitching they'll hopefully curse word off sharpish.
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Oct 17, 2009 10:00:01 GMT
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think youve got most of it covered there
you can easily fit additional battery backed sirens and airhorns to a alarm , get some hidden internal sirens too , and as you say make sure its a good hidden install
disclock steering wheel covers are a good visual deterant too
maybe depending on what car ...would a car cover help it not stand out to thieves
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Oct 17, 2009 12:19:16 GMT
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Internal and External sirens. Dual stage immobiliser and what about a dry ice machine inside the car?
Small wireless video camera hidden in the binnacle pointed at the drivers face that only activates when the alarm is triggered?
Magnavolt?
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Last Edit: Oct 17, 2009 12:27:44 GMT by Soopahfly
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Oct 17, 2009 12:55:57 GMT
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No engine too large,no car too small,,,,,
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Oct 17, 2009 13:47:42 GMT
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we run a car audio, security and modifications shop, and there are some thatcham approved systems out there that will give you pager alert if the alarm is triggered. Clifford do a callgaurd system that will alert you by text. If you don't want to got to that expense, ebay will net you a similar gsm system, but it will be chinesse sh1te.
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Its not broken, its resting! Max signature image height: 80px
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93fxdl
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Posts: 2,013
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Oct 17, 2009 14:00:33 GMT
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a few suggestions for anti theft i prefer diy systems as the scum usually know how to bypass any alarm/immobilizer after all it is their business
fit windows with security film (like limo tint but clear) so the scum cant get in by breaking a window fit remote locking and disconnect the manual locks so the scum cant slim jim or screwdriver the locks rig up a bracket and padlock to secure the gearstick in reverse so can only be driven back wards strap a large barbed spike to the drivers seat so if the scum get in they will have a surprise when they sit down fit extra locking or hide the bonnet release to make it harder for the scum to access the engine electrics mount the battery in the boot and wire in using a cut of switch so the scum cant get the electrics to work if mechanical fuel pump replace with electric and wire through a pull out plug fit a tap into the fuel line no petrol no go yes in the past I have had "the scum" take one of my cars but even I am not psycho enough to suggest connecting it to the mains with a 6mm bolt in place of the fuse or an airbag with a projectile in the steering wheel (well not quite psycho enough) ttfn Glenn
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Last Edit: Oct 17, 2009 14:05:09 GMT by 93fxdl
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Oct 17, 2009 14:12:23 GMT
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Only problem with the spike etc glenn is that unless there are warning signs, you go to jail for booby traps but visual deterants are more likely to stop someone trying to steal the car in the first place, so big light, camera, steering wheel lock, and one of those automated poles that come out the ground behind your car would be more than enough to stop all but the most determined of them !
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Oct 17, 2009 14:21:25 GMT
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No security for me! Car's usually left unlocked on the driveway. don't really suffer from car theft round here and I'd rather someone just opened the door and took the stereo than smashed the window. I do lock the doors when i take it up london.
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93fxdl
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Oct 17, 2009 14:24:02 GMT
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WARNING ATTEMPTING TO STEAL THIS CAR MAY RESULT IN PERMANENT INJURY OR DEATH but yes I agree visual is the first line of defence but you have to follow that with making it difficult to get into following that with difficult to start/keep running/tow away and then there is the tracker type option so you have a chance of getting it back if the car is on your drive how about a trip wire to the house so an alarm in the house goes off if the car is moved away ttfn glenn
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Last Edit: Oct 17, 2009 14:26:13 GMT by 93fxdl
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Oct 17, 2009 18:50:21 GMT
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For physical deterrants, nothing beats a proper discklock - time and again they come out top in trials. My only beef with them is they are very cumbersome and really need stowed in the boot when not in use, and laziness and complacency when "just popping t the shops" may mean you might not use it every time. Most other stuff is pish - autolock between handbrake and gear lever.....crooklock between steering wheel and pedal....I'm not even a car thief and I can get these sorts of things off in seconds pretty much silently.
The hardest car to immobilise is something on carbs, especially if it has a mechanical fuel pump. ie minis etc. A foot long bit of wire will get this type of car running no matter what immobiliser or cut off switches it has. Best bet is to cut the coils EARTH via isolating it from the chassis and wiring an earth wire though a hidden switch. cutting the positive feed is relatively pointless.
Other cars running EFI are best with a minimum of 2 circuits immobilised - fuel pump and EFI main power are most common.
A lockable line-lock in the brake hydraulic pipes is a relatively straight-forward fit if you can make up brake pipes, plus adds an extra safety element when parking.
Solenoid valves are quite easilly available to be fitted into the fuel lines to cut the fuel flow until a hidden button is switched - this is simple plumbing and electrics to implement.
Not much you can do against a hi-ab or tilt-bed and powerfull winch - this is where stuff like a driveway post come in usefull. Its surprising how many neighbours wont bat an eyelid at seeing your car being winched onto a flatbedin broad daylight - they just assume its something normal happening, but if a post has to be cut out first, this will alert them that things are not normal.
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1986 Panda 4x4. 1990 Metro Sport. 1999 Ford Escort estate.
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Oct 17, 2009 19:03:10 GMT
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will
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,023
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securitywill
@familybanger
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Oct 17, 2009 20:46:16 GMT
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I remember seeing (in a bike mag) about some blank shotgun cartridge firing devices, they were for garage doors set up on a trip wire could be handy for some, although no idea where to get um or of the legality of such a device. Good element of surprise though ;D.
I've also used those hand held rape alarms on garage/shed, the ones where you can pull a string to set off the siren could be used on vehicle itself with a little adaptation, hiding inside wheel arch connected to wheel or brakes for instance.
Over the years living in London I,ve found that what the eye don't see the thieving feck's less likely to tea leaf. Garage or covers FTW.
If your looking at lock and chain try almax they tested them for their website vid at my work and the chains are tough as......... Many of the other big names were tested, saw some very expensive chains cut like cheese. I'm not linked in any way (pardon the pun) but good products deserve a mention in my book.
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93fxdl
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a couple of more suggestions back in the 70s (i think) a couple of manufacturers (ford and lotus?)started using anti run on valves which when the ignition was switched off the valve opened and let air into the inlet manifold and they got quite a name for failing and the car not starting there is a range of products made by chubb used for the care of the elderly and in this range there are door alarms and proximity sensors the door alarms are a bit like the cheapy jml type but are connected by radio to a control box so if triggered the box alarm goes off the proximity alarm works by going off when the sensor moves more than a preset distance from the control box you could try the large dog left in the car but many years ago an estate car loaded with disco gear and a rottwieler was targeted and it was the dog that was taken! ttfn glenn
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