the Short answer would be yes, fitting a 16swg u shaped channel would stiffen the floor sufficiently to jack it, but if Mazda did not think it necessary at the time of manufacture, then I'm not sure I would personally go down that route
Post by wallopadonkey on May 20, 2010 22:11:11 GMT
yeah i see what you mean everything on the car is done for lightness all inside the sill are swaged holes etc. however i am now more interested in being able to jack it safely after i have repaired all the damage so as not to undo the repairs if you see what i mean, most cars have good strong jack ponts but i don't get it on this at all! dave
1983 mini city e 1985 miny Mayfair 1997 Audi a4 tdi 2003 gsxf 750
Hi Tony Excellent article and a real inspiration. I am in the process of repairing the outer sills and jacking points on the drivers side and have cut out the worst rot to assess the job in hand. As you can see the bottom lip below the jacking point had lost most of its layers and I need to know what the other layers look like to be able to work out a plan of action and fabricate a new outer sill. The remaining layer has three slots in the bottom edge - are these drainage holes for the sunroof pipe? A bit boggled about where and how to start, what to cut out and what to leave.
Will post more pictures when I work out how to attach more than one.
I have not worked on an E34 before, but looking at the pictures the 3 slots are not drain holes, I suspect that they are more likely to be location holes for the jack or something like that, the reason I say that is because they are outside of the sill
I suspect that the sunroof drain tube was supposed to drain down the centre tube that the jack also locates on on the sill
The construction idea looks similar to a six series that I have done
Here you can see the inner stiffener that sits inside the sill, this has a hole in the centre that the jacking support tube goes through
Then the outer sill patch has a corresponding hole in it
The the jack support tube is pushed up through the aligned holes and then pool weld all the 3 thicknesses together
Hope that helps
If its not clear let me know and I will try to sketch something down
This thread is the greatest thread EVER!!! If only because it gave me the encouragement I needed to replace the towing eye on the BX. The BX is an ongoing project/swapathon that I suspect would make people here proud, check it out on the BXProject;
As requested, here is my experience of using this thread to create something fantastic! First up the remains of the towing eye, and what I need to duplicate (apologies for the pic being on the curse word);
It's not meant to have that sodding great big hole in the spreader! This is the only part unique to the BX 16valve, from what I can tell it was welded onto the car in a rush shortly before lunch break in the factory in Rene's. Its a pretty heavy bit of metal not quite 2mm thick!
This is the 'new metal' cut to size. It's 2mm plate. This is the bit that the thread really helped with, understanding the radiusing in corners etc. I can't show it pre cut because I marked up in pencil (ran out of chalk) so the pictures didn't come out. Its cut out with a 1mm cutting disc.
I'm reusing the 10mm bar that makes up the towing 'loop' mostly because i'm tight. So cutting it off with the cutting disc and a carefully shaped flat cold chisel (as suggested by this thread).
sandy flappy disc put to good use;
And the three pieces. Using the hints and tips here I realised I could bent this up in my vice quite easily if I gave the folding order some thought. I also gently adjusted/fettled the new steel into shape;
And finally the (almost) finished article. Its part welded, part tacked. When I bought the car the loop was out of alignment and regular brake downs haven't helped so I will weld it up fully once I can get the bumper on and make sure of the alignment.
Ah, done. All in, it probably took less than an hour, mostly because i've got a small garage so everything is to hand!
My tips would be the following. 1) Tape measures SUCK! If i'd had a steel rule, a set of calipers and square I'd have saved a LOT of time.
2) Pencil is grey, steel is grey (unless you have fancy Zintec), this is NOT a helpful combination. I have 144 sticks of chalk in the post for the next project (and rest of my life no doubt!).
3) Don't be afraid of cocking it up if your working on a 'new' part on the bench, you can always weigh it in and start again.
4) Metal sheet on your workbench, hook it to the 'earth' of the welder and now you don't need to do the earth lead shuffle/balancing act when your welding!
Just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to put this fantastic thread together. It’s inspirational stuff and has encouraged me to tackle work I’d previously thought needed a box folder, a bending roller, a spot welder, a plasma cutter, a shrinker, stretcher, swager, notcher, nibler and an English Wheel at the very least!
*Heads off to garage to try and make a battery tray…*
You can sleep in a car, but you can't race a house...
Continuing with the E34 sill renovation but interrupted by building a welding table and your excellent sheet bender - how did I manage before? As you can see in the pic, doing a piece that requires the stretching technique and I need to tighten the bend at the arrow. Do I keep fettling it with the cross pein - the metal is getting very thin and I need to put a spot weld at that point. In theory would the bend go to a right angle if you kept bashing? BTW the metal is 1.2mm/18g.
You could not stretch it enough to make it a 90 degree bend, but you will be able to stretch it enough to form a curve that covers 90 degrees
There are 3 pointers I could give that should help
 Unless you specifically need a radius on the bend of the angle, you will get better results if you form your angle with a tighter initial fold, this will allow it to curve more easily
 Even though you may need the radius formed at the end of your work piece, you will get better results if you make your work piece longer, form the curve further from the end, and then trim it down to suit
 And finally you need to focus your hammer blows nearer to the outside edge of your folded angle, as you have found if they are too close to the fold of the angle, most of your effort goes into thinning the metal
Yes, it helps a lot. I did think I might be a bit ambitious given the width of the fold I need to beat and the width of the metal bending to that process. The fold has to be that width/depth because that is the vertical edge of the sill. Would it be better in this particular case to make it out of two pieces and weld them together I.e. curve the inner sill piece with a smaller fold as you suggest and then lap weld it to the vertical sill edge?