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Jan 14, 2010 12:47:21 GMT
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Over the years playing with cars, you gather masses of knowledge that is absolutely invaluble. But if you're learning largely by yourself, or only getting new knowledge when something new breaks, there will be glaring gaps in this knowledge. Then it gets to the point where you feel daft asking about it because you should know.. The purpose of this thread is to fill those gaps, and help others to fill theirs. My first question- How do you pronounce Dzus? My second question- How do you work out where the HT leads go on the Distributor? Can you start from any point as long as the order is correct? Do you go by the firing order and put them on clockwise? Or anticlockwise? See? Really simple questions I should know. But have never learnt. I'll have more later, I'm sure. Please feel free to add your own. It is an amnesty, afterall
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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ThePollitt
Posted a lot
Fix up, look... at that car on eBay!
Posts: 4,693
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Jan 14, 2010 12:53:33 GMT
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What a superb idea for a thread!
I look forward to watching this one flourish!
Chris
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Jan 14, 2010 12:55:38 GMT
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My ol' man used to work in the fastner business and thier cheif competitor was Dzus, which he pronounced "Zeus" as in the head of the pantheon of Greek mythology.
As for distributors, set the static timing as per your haynes/chilton/S-P/factory manual, but generally, when number one cylinder is at TDC with both the inlet and exhaust valves closed then the rotor arm will point to the lead on the distributor cap which is number one. You connect the rest of the leads up following the firing order specified in your manual (or often cast into the inlet manifold on older cars) and ensure you check if the distributor turns clockwise or counter-clockwise to avoid any embarrassing calls to AA Homestart later.
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jan 14, 2010 12:58:54 GMT
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I can't answer yours I'm afraid, but I do have an embarrassing one of my own:
What, in simple terms, is torque?
I know basically what it is, naturally, but if someone says to me 'what's the difference between power and torque?' I struggle to succinctly sum up the torque side of it in a simple way without banging on for ages about overtaking ability and twisting forces and stump-pulling and availability of power across rev ranges and stuff... what I really need is a simple one-liner to summarise it. I've tried 'it's sort of how the power is delivered, but not really', but this requires subsequent clarification. Anyone?
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Jan 14, 2010 12:59:07 GMT
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Marvellous, thank you! Don't forget to add your own questions
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Jan 14, 2010 13:02:45 GMT
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My second question- How do you work out where the HT leads go on the Distributor? Can you start from any point as long as the order is correct? Do you go by the firing order and put them on clockwise? Or anticlockwise? Easy for me middle goes to coil left for left, right for right. Even easier on a 2CV which I believe has no dizzy. I wonder if it would blow up or run in reverse if I put them on back to front. hehehe. As for embarrising things I cant work out how to adjust the points gap on mine. Or which way around the vaccum pipes under the bonnet goes. The way round that ive found is to chalk the pipe/lead and conector and match like for like. Paul
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Last Edit: Jan 14, 2010 13:11:49 GMT by pauldaf44
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Jan 14, 2010 13:03:18 GMT
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Torque is - How big the bang is Power is - How many bangs there are
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Jan 14, 2010 13:10:51 GMT
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Somebody on here has a good anwser in there sig to that. Goes something like this.
Power (bhp) = How fast you hit the fence. Torque = How far you take the fence with you.
Simplest way I can describe it is how much power is required for one revolution of the driving wheels. As you know torque is measured in Nm which is Newtons * metres. Newtons is a measurement of force in this case power and metres in this case circumfrance of driving wheels. Torque to the road is dependent on how much power comes at engine revs. Thats how our lecturer described it anyway in our vehicle science lectures. I'm doing a degree in Automotive engineering so should have been able to anwser that better now walks of to confer with lecturer lol.
Paul
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Daft question amnestyBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Jan 14, 2010 13:11:39 GMT
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Torque is - How big the bang is Power is - How many bangs there are That's brilliant. Never seen it expressed like that before! Here's my question for the amnesty: I don't really understand diff gear ratios. I get the gearbox end, where the ratios go up until the engine speed and output shaft speed are at a 1:1 ratio (excluding the overdrive). But what about the differential? Surely the diff doesn't gear it back down again? Or does it? And in any case, why don't they have the diff as a 1:1 ratio and let the gearbox do all the work?
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jikovron
Part of things
mechanical chaos
Posts: 633
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Jan 14, 2010 13:27:20 GMT
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power and torque is hard to imagine but i normally think of it this way due to my tedious nature haha vvvvvv
torque is how much turning force the gearbox input shaft sees ,,power is how much work the force does in a time period
100lb/ft @ 0 rpm = 0BHP as no work has been done despite the turning force existing 100lbft @ 1000rpm = 19bhp 1000lb/ft @100rpm also equalls 19bhp as the overall output from a gearbox when geared to the same speed is equal (this shows that gear ratio's don't modify power,just modify its properties) engine A running at 1:1 ratio would equal 100lb/ft @1000rpm,,,,and engine B running through a 10:1 rato would equal the same 100lb/ft @1000rpm
if they both ran through identical ratio's the first engine would run the vehicle 10 times faster than the second engine,,but it would have a pulling force 10 times less
the next thing is that engines produce varying torque as the rpm rises therefore adding even more to the mix
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Jan 14, 2010 13:27:46 GMT
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I like this thread - my first question has already been answered - ie torque. Brake Horse Power - I get horse power, but what does the brake bit relate to? PS How many questions are we allowed to ask, I feel a long list developing...
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1974 Aston Martin V8 (in bits) 1974 VDP 1300 (in bits) 1997 Ford Escort Cabrio (should be in bits)
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Jan 14, 2010 13:41:32 GMT
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dzus - zzzzzzzzzzus
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2001 HONDA CT110 (NOT RCV)
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Jan 14, 2010 13:42:39 GMT
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Brake Horse Power - I get horse power, but what does the brake bit relate to? That one's easy! The 'Brake' in 'Brake Horsepower" refers to the magnetic or water resistance brake used to apply load to an engine on an engine dyno, for example the brake at the end of the shiny machined adaptor in this photo: Basically it's about identifying the method of measurement at which the power reading is taken. In other words, Brake hp means that it was measured on an engine dyno, as opposed to the increasingly popular "Rear wheel horsepower", measured on a chassis dyno. Also note, that it is important to state the method of measurement when quoting a power figure, as it dramatically affects the results (at-the-wheels figures are often as much as 30% lower). Even on an engine dyno, for example, there are different testing standards which govern the way the engine is run, ie. the modern SAE standard, or back in the old days there was "Gross" and "Net" brake horsepower. Gross horsepower was basically cheating and was used to bump up the power figures for advertising purposes, and it involved running the engine with no accessories whatsoever, no alternator, power steer, fan or even water pump, this frees up lots of power from the parasitic losses. "Net" power runs were supposed to be done with all the accessories set up as they would be in the car, similar to the modern SAE/DIN bhp figures.
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Jan 14, 2010 14:00:56 GMT
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I don't really understand diff gear ratios. I get the gearbox end, where the ratios go up until the engine speed and output shaft speed are at a 1:1 ratio (excluding the overdrive). But what about the differential? Surely the diff doesn't gear it back down again? Or does it? And in any case, why don't they have the diff as a 1:1 ratio and let the gearbox do all the work? The diff does reduce the output speed, so the propshaft can turn roughly 3 to 4 times faster than the wheels. This is useful for many reasons, but basically you want a final gear reduction as close to the end of the driveline as possible so that all the other components can be made smaller, lighter and cheaper. Basically it comes down to the fact that power = torque x revs. A shaft or gear's strength is rated in terms of torque, so if you want a certain amount of power to be transmitted by a shaft, the faster the shaft is allowed to spin, the weaker/thinner/lighter/cheaper the shaft can be. Say you have a tailshaft which can take 300Nm of torque before it breaks. If your diff ratio was 1:1, then for a certain road speed your tailshaft may only spin at 1000rpm, which means that you can put x amount of power through. If you have a 3:1 diff, then the shaft turns at 3000rpm, and hence you can put 3 times as much power through the shaft before it breaks. (Also your gearbox would have to be enormous for similar reasons, but let's not complicate things). Hope this helps.
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Jan 14, 2010 14:03:36 GMT
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Torque is - How big the bang is Power is - How many bangs there are After seeing many, many attempts at an explaination of this, this is still my favourite. Its not technically correct in many pedantic respects but gets the message across. BHP = (torque * RPM) / 5250. So BHP is only ever a calculated function of torque and revs.
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jan 14, 2010 14:07:23 GMT
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The diff does reduce the output speed Can I be a pedant? The diff does not do anything other than allow the inner and outer wheel on an axle to turn at different speeds to allow the car to turn a corner smoothly. The CROWNwheel and pinion, or "final drive" is the bit of the machine which alters the speed of rotation of the driven shafts. I appreciate that its common practice to (incorrectly) refer to a 3.7:1 diff or whatever but since this is a "answering those questions" thread I'm in pedant mode. Sorry to be picky with an otherwise fine reply!
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Last Edit: Jan 14, 2010 14:07:36 GMT by akku
1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jan 14, 2010 14:22:14 GMT
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Well met, Alistair! Point taken. I was in "layman's terms" mode, otherwise known as being lazy! I'm pretty sure everyone would've more or less got the idea though.
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Jan 15, 2010 10:49:33 GMT
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OK, my question is this:
I can never remember the proper definitions of "peek" and "poke". Being old skool with computers these mean storigin and retrieving data from memory using low level code.
But as per relating to wheels and tyres...
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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DutyFreeSaviour
Europe
Back For More heartbreak and disappointment.....
Posts: 2,944
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Jan 15, 2010 12:07:43 GMT
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Here's mine - safety related too!
What is 'acceptable' 'safe' etc... for fuel lines on carb applications? Copper OK? Galvanized piping etc...? Rubber fuel hose only?
How would you know (official markings?) or would any metal piping be OK and fuel 'rubber' only for short flexi runs....?
Does it depend on if the line runs internal or external?
For some reason I'm struggling to find anyone in Brussels that knows/has what I'm looking for.
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Back from the dead..... kind of
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Jan 15, 2010 12:16:15 GMT
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Brilliant idea for a thread - I'm sure I will have some questions to add!
Alistair - As far as I know, Peek and Poke were just commands to directly view or modify the contents of a memory location - "Peek" gives the contents of a specified location, "Poke" puts a given value directly into that location.
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