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Jan 15, 2010 12:17:53 GMT
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How many nuns/school children/rare species can I expect if I chop my springs?? ;D
Don't laugh at me now, but does a twin/dual circuit brake system have two complete sets of brake pipes to each wheel? Every car I have ever worked on only has one pipe per corner. If not, how does it work? Surely if one pipe leaks you lose your brakes?? (and I told you not to laugh!!)
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Jan 15, 2010 12:23:04 GMT
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How many nuns/school children/rare species can I expect if I chop my springs?? ;D Don't laugh at me now, but does a twin/dual circuit brake system have two complete sets of brake pipes to each wheel? Every car I have ever worked on only has one pipe per corner. If not, how does it work? Surely if one pipe leaks you lose your brakes?? (and I told you not to laugh!!) Two independent pistons in the mastercylinder. Usually they're linked diagonally, ie the front piston will work on one front and the opposite side rear. Then you get twin mastercylinder setups where one cylinder works the front calipers, and one works the rear and therefore you can adjust the pressure on each to get the balance right.
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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Jan 15, 2010 12:27:22 GMT
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Here's mine - safety related too! What is 'acceptable' 'safe' etc... for fuel lines on carb applications? Copper OK? Galvanized piping etc...? Rubber fuel hose only? How would you know (official markings?) or would any metal piping be OK and fuel 'rubber' only for short flexi runs....? Does it depend on if the line runs internal or external? For some reason I'm struggling to find anyone in Brussels that knows/has what I'm looking for. John, we had a thread on this recently, started by Mr K, which was pretty informative. 8mm Copper heating pipe is usually used for the long runs with the ends flared, then rubber hose off each end to the tank / fuel filter. In the 205 I used braided rubber hose all the way through and it's started to perish already... as little rubber as possible is the way to go really.
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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rysz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,554
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Jan 15, 2010 12:27:46 GMT
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I believe that the twin dual circuit is that diagonally opposite wheels are on the same circuit that way if you get a leak on one circuit, you can stop slightly safer. The two circuits will come from the Master Cylinder or the Servo so you will only get one line to each wheel. At least, this is my understanding of it - I stand to be corrected though! Rysz.
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,513
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Jan 15, 2010 12:28:39 GMT
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What is 'acceptable' 'safe' etc... for fuel lines on carb applications? Many original fuel pipes were just steel like brake lines. You can replace them with copper/kunifer or even stainless as long as they are clipped appropriately to reduce the risk of any undue long term fatigue fracture. I would always consider it best to have as much solid line as possible and then short rubber hose connections at each end. But then there are more modern "plastic" options. I think blownimp used push fit connectors on his car? If this is for the GT6 then probably an idea to look up whatever race regs there are for what you might use it for as it might specify
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Jan 15, 2010 12:33:57 GMT
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I would avoid "pure" copper for any autpmotive application as it work hardens with vibration and then snaps. This is worst with brakes but you don't want a fuel leak over your hot headers or the oil cooler line to burst causing a high pressure oil leak... Kunifer is best. Stainless can also have brittleness issues which is why its not used for brake lines more often but it is used a bit for fuel. Thats said the Americans use stainless much more than we do. I don't think they have kunifer lines at all. Also also stanless is harder to "work" when fitting lines.
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jan 15, 2010 12:34:37 GMT
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Alistair - As far as I know, Peek and Poke were just commands to directly view or modify the contents of a memory location - "Peek" gives the contents of a specified location, "Poke" puts a given value directly into that location. Thats the one. Far better description than mine. It also is a term used to describe stretched tyres and "euro" wheels.
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jan 15, 2010 12:41:09 GMT
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Ahh I see now - just read your question properly. No idea how they relate to tyres, either....
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Jan 15, 2010 12:42:11 GMT
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Aye, comments like "I like the peek but it needs more poke" or whatever.
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jan 15, 2010 12:43:07 GMT
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Ah good, nice to see the thread has found its way back up. I normally have so many questions for stuff like this but they've all escaped me now. I'll be back again with more later..
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Jan 15, 2010 12:44:11 GMT
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It's widely accepted that dwell angle is the more accurate way of setting your points as opposed to gap size. But what if your cam lobes on your dizzy are worn? This would mean that if you set the dwell to the specified figure,then the points would not open as far as the should,just as long as they should. So in this case,which is the better method....gap or dwell?
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Jan 15, 2010 12:45:29 GMT
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Bhp and torque are hard to describe so that you can get your head round them, for example you can make bhp with high revs or large displacement, but its hard to make a high revving engine make lots of torque.
Revvy engines tend to be short stroke and therefore have small diameter cranshafts, long stroke engines need a bigger diameter crankshaft so the piston (through the con rod) has more leverage on it because its pushing down further from the centre line, like longer pedal cranks on your push bike make it easier to pedal up hill.
Higher compression engines also tend to make more torque, this is partly why diesels are more torquey, they tend to be longer stroke and higher compression than petrol engines.
If you imagine a nail sticking out of a bit of wood as the work you need to do, you can either hit it really fast with a small hammer (high revs) or hit it slower with a big hammer (large capacity) both way will get the nail into the wood, but if you have Rambo swinging your hammers with his big strong arm full of torque the nail will go in faster than if Peewee Herman is swinging them.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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DutyFreeSaviour
Europe
Back For More heartbreak and disappointment.....
Posts: 2,944
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Jan 15, 2010 12:57:29 GMT
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THAT ^^ will stick in the mind for ALL the wrong reasons! Thanks for info - I missed the thread on it. It's actually for the 2500 as I chopped through the plastic in place. The GT6 will be race spec all the way - but it's a track toy - not looking for a championship...... ( don't think a GT6 with a Nissan turbo lump will fit in for most) Off to the plumbing supplies. Bruce - you can spot the dual circuits as they'll have two lines from the master servo - this splits them and means no single point of failure (yeah - right!) and should mean you'll stop albeit screaming/praying/puckering.... My Alfa GTV has 'em - made no real difference and I still cr*pped myself when they went
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Back from the dead..... kind of
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Jan 15, 2010 13:35:46 GMT
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I always liked:
Horsepower sells cars. Torque wins races.
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Jan 15, 2010 13:42:54 GMT
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It's widely accepted that dwell angle is the more accurate way of setting your points as opposed to gap size. But what if your cam lobes on your dizzy are worn? This would mean that if you set the dwell to the specified figure,then the points would not open as far as the should,just as long as they should. So in this case,which is the better method....gap or dwell? Dwell, and for the reason you mention. Dwell is more accurate because it takes into account wear on the lobe - setting the gap is just a mechanical way of estimating the dwell time (based on a standard lobe profile)
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in
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Dom
Part of things
Limey
Posts: 617
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Jan 15, 2010 13:49:31 GMT
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Could someone explain to me, like you would the offside law to your girlfriend, how a diff actually makes the wheels turn at different speeds? Never understood despite some good diagrams. Oh and, when you miss a gear and grind it, what bits are actually in contact? The gear teeth or the sides of the cogs or what? Cheers
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Jan 15, 2010 13:51:31 GMT
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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DutyFreeSaviour
Europe
Back For More heartbreak and disappointment.....
Posts: 2,944
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Jan 15, 2010 14:33:29 GMT
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Just thought of one - what the heck is the big difference between the 'strut' suspension and 'coilovers' If I look at my Trump/Escort/Others - the strut, insert and spring are all in the same config (although maybe larger diameter etc...) Insert in body of strut as absortber, spring external on platforms - so what's the gain?
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Back from the dead..... kind of
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Dom
Part of things
Limey
Posts: 617
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Jan 15, 2010 15:09:59 GMT
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Cheers Pop, I get it now.
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Jan 15, 2010 15:33:49 GMT
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Whats dwell and how do I set my point by the dwell angle?
*hides behind monitor*
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