I just watched the video again (about the 8th time ;D) and just noticed the severe camera shake when the engine fires up/revs. Didn't notice it first few times because I was just loving the noise too much....but now I know it's there it makes me love this car a WHOLE LOT MORE!
It's kinda how I imagine my brain/vision would be shaking if I was there myself. Virtual reality is awesome. Please post up some more vids
its manual, W57. ive run with factory computer for now. this car is going to be a cruiser with air con and power steering, Ive got my other one (see "1976 celica RA23" for my fast one) to go fast in, I want this one for road trips and cruising. I will probably run an aftermarket computer when I supercharge it but thats a year or two off yet. it runs allot better now that all the air pipes and whatnot are sorted out, ill stick up another vid.
right, on with the rest of the build up untill now....
well ive been doing some measuring and stuffing about and ive arrived at a final figure of 85mm per side must be removed to get me back to stock celica hub face to hub face (1370mm total) I'm going to have a look around a 4x4 wreckers tomorrow and see if i can find some nissan navara shafts that are somewhere near right. if i can find some that are 3" shorter then we'll be in business. I'm not holding out much hope though, this would make a very short shaft indeed and not the sort of thing youd want on a long travel 4WD setup, time will tell.
and so this update isint completely lame heres a pic of the cradle stripped ready for me to make a jig then cut it and shut it....
also i have done this to assure no hope of future success.
right! how to cut up a perfectly good GTR subframe. first, weld some random bits of steel you have lying around the shed to it in a fairly inconvenient place, then cut some bits off.
once you've done this, cut up the bit you cut off into even smaller pieces.
if there is any bits joining your two half's together, cut them off as well.
then move the bits all over the place so you have no idea where they were and you can possibly put it back together.
try to put it back together and fail miserably. by now you should have something that looks like this, and no hope of it ever working again.
now that ive created this edifice i have no option but to try to make use of it somehow. there will be more to this story i can assure you..........
well for those of you who think ive been sitting round doing nothing except going "a doop pe do, a doop pe do do do, doopie do" i haven't. and to prove it i have photoshopped up some images that look like progress. the subframe is back together and fully welded/strengthened and ready to go into the car. it fits where i want it to and i reckon its plenty strong enough. i still have to weld up and strengthen the floor and chassis rails but its getting there. half shafts are almost finished and i can start to think about putting it together properly and bolting it all in.. some pics of the frame. i might weld some more bits on it but i don't reckon i need to....
passengers side chassis rail is finished. ive used 3mm plate and tied it all in pretty well. i used the old upper control arm mounting point as part of the structure so its pretty strong. ive started on the drivers side and will probably get it 99% finished tomorrow. still got allot to do but its coming along.
more has been achieved in the area of welding bits on. Ive got the subframe sitting where i want it, i was going to move it forward by another 10mm but i don't think i need to. the reason i was going to do this is all to do with wheel clearance issues i had with the 23, but none of these rules apply here because the wheel wont move in an arc like it does on a normal live axle car. ill take out the strut and check wheel clearance but i think I'm good to go with where it sits now. the wheel thats on the car in the photo bellow is about 630 in diameter, roughly the same as a 235/40/17. with the car on the ground the wheel moves up about 15-20mm from where it is now (the strut and spring i have is very stiff, ill be changing this but its all i have for now) but thats the ride height I'm aiming for. i have to make some more plates and such for the mounting points and to strengthen up the floor. but the rails are done and there is clearance (curse word all but enough) between the chassis rails and the subframe.
so its more upside down welding for me. i went out in the shed last night but i couldn't hold my arms up above my head any more so i had a night of, i need to acquire some 10mm plate and some huge angle iron bits and pieces to make stuff with. i can actually see a light at the end of the tunnel now. hard to believe. and it looks like ill be able to have a back seat as per normal too.
so thats it as of right now. the onlty things that have changed since christmas are that ive put the rear screen in, put the front screen in which then promptly cracked in half, bought a new front screen and aquired some bits of steel to make more parts of the floor with. ive been very busy with my other celica so this one has had a bit of a rest lately. ill be back into it now though, i realy want to drive this car, its been in a shed over half its life and its high time i drove it!!!!
wellllllllll, after what seems like ages but has in fact been 3 months i have made some actual parts for this car. ive made the rear chassis mounting point for the subframe. and ive welded it to the car. in some of the photos taken from bellow the car you can see lots of parts of the roof of my shed, this is because there are still many large holes in the car. but slowly, slowly I'm filling them in with stuff. this is the last major structural part (apart from the strutt towers) that was left to make. there are lots of little hole in the rails to fill but these are easy to do. soon, very soon I'm going to sit it back on its wheels. then its only a matter of making the GTR brakes fit on the front, building a driveshaft and i can drive it. i can believe i just said that, "drive it". it hasn't moved under its own power for about 16 years........
front brakes are finished. still need new flexi hoses and that but the brackets are done and it all bolts up. got crown hubs, GTR disks and GTR calipers.
i found that with the GTR disk sitting on the crown hub the caliper needed to be 4mm away from the factory bracket. i welded a scrap bit of metal on first so i could get the holes in exactly the right place, i had to slot the holes a bit and curse word around with getting the caliper sitting in exactly the right place but once id done this i welded the final piece of 4mm plate on the other side and transferred the holes through. then i cut the scrap off. simple once its done. i welded another bit of 4mm plate into the gap on the other side so it was a bit stronger, then i just transferred the holes from left to right. i also found that the brackets will swap from left to right so i can put the calipers on the front of the disk or the back. they clear on either side so I'm going to run them on the back of the disk.
heres some pics of the stock caliper mounting bracket and the modifications i made to bolt up the GTR stuff. its a bit hard to see clearly but i think you'll get the idea.
this is the side of the bracket that faces the disk, the caliper mounts against this side.
this is the other side, the bolts go in from this side. they aren't the same because i changed my mind after id made the first one........
you can kind of see the 4mm offset that i needed in this photo.
now i got brakes!!! I'm really happy with how easily this bit came together. sheepers
got the passengers side strut tower pretty much finished. i cant put a top on it yet because i need to change the springs that i have for the rear struts (current ones are way to stiff) so the height will change a bit when i get the softer springs in. i reckon the top will be about where the line is. i can get the back seat in and it will latch up in its normal place so thats pretty sweet.
I'm gonna buy some wheels this week, i need to machine the front wheels to give them a bit more offset but the rears wont need it, in fact ill need to run a 20mm spacer to get them sitting right. this makes the stats on the wheels, front 17 x 8 +33 and the rears 17 x 10 -8. when i get some propper wheels made some time in the future i will have heaps of room for the megga dish of doom on the back. twill be sweet.
but for now, a basic list of things i need to do so i can drive it round the block, make drivers side strut tower make a throttle cable make a driveshaft acquire and fit rear brakes acquire and fit comminwhore in tank fuel pump fit fuel tank make hand brake work get a set of locks and key tumbler so they all use the same key find and fit seat belts. strip and paint/HPC rear subframe install new bushes and assemble/install rear subframe and diff.
there is lots of little things that i cant think of right now that will take ages and lots of money but its getting close....
got new springs for the rear and was able to finish the strut towers. ive got a couple of holes to patch in the floor and some seatbelt mounts to put in but the structure is finished. i pick up my wheels on wednesday and that will be the final test really. I'm happy with the rear end and where everything is sitting and how it all moves. it will all be sweet. starting to think about driveshaft and a few other little odds and sods then i can drive it!!
OMG!! this is how all cars should be. i just hope you do something like this for a living, and not when you just ar5e about at home on a night. or your talents are not being exploited!! there's some top quality work going into that build!! total respect to ya.