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Tomorrow i pick up the replacement headlight. Mk2 k11 lower arms should be here anyday, once i have them the front hubs and coilies can go on. Saturday iam going to the breakers to get some parts froma facelift car, iam getting wings, bumpers, bumperbars, bonnet, indicators and iam also chopping the entire front off of the car just infront of the strut towers.
My mate who is helping fix the damage says its the best way to get a neat finished result, i would never be able to pull the chassis leg and make it look ok.
I also want to grab a mk2 rear axle if i can. I want to cut and camber it and also just tart it up with some paint and new bushes.
Cheers Kev
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did i see big rizla silvers in one of those pics? you naughty boy. slap yourself on the wrist. and keep moddin
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1965 Datsun spl 310 1967 MGB roadster 1979 Dodge Spacevan 1983 Citroen LNA 1989 Volvo 760 GLE 1990 Volkswagen Jetta 1990 Nissan Bluebird 1990 Volkswagen LT35 1984 MZ TS125
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rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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Tomorrow I pick up the replacement headlight. Mk2 k11 lower arms should be here anyday, once I have them the front hubs and coilies can go on. Saturday iam going to the breakers to get some parts froma facelift car, iam getting wings, bumpers, bumperbars, bonnet, indicators and iam also chopping the entire front off of the car just infront of the strut towers. My mate who is helping fix the damage says its the best way to get a neat finished result, I would never be able to pull the chassis leg and make it look ok. I also want to grab a mk2 rear axle if I can. I want to cut and camber it and also just tart it up with some paint and new bushes. Cheers Kev Shame your not leaving it prefacelift, but finding parts for em is proving to be bloody difficult! Ive been looking for some front sidelight covers for ages with no luck
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did I see big rizla silvers in one of those pics? you naughty boy. slap yourself on the wrist. and keep moddin Lol
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Tomorrow I pick up the replacement headlight. Mk2 k11 lower arms should be here anyday, once I have them the front hubs and coilies can go on. Saturday iam going to the breakers to get some parts froma facelift car, iam getting wings, bumpers, bumperbars, bonnet, indicators and iam also chopping the entire front off of the car just infront of the strut towers. My mate who is helping fix the damage says its the best way to get a neat finished result, I would never be able to pull the chassis leg and make it look ok. I also want to grab a mk2 rear axle if I can. I want to cut and camber it and also just tart it up with some paint and new bushes. Cheers Kev Shame your not leaving it prefacelift, but finding parts for em is proving to be bloody difficult! Ive been looking for some front sidelight covers for ages with no luck Iam keeping it pre face lift Just changing the bumpers and wings to face lift. I have managed to get brand new old stock headlights for 35 each delivered i just need 1 sidelight and iam all good. ill use the bonnet to align the front end and get the panel gaps right. cheers kev
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K11 lower arms just arrived Iam actually fairly tempted to play around with rose joints, but i really should just leave it fairly basic on the chassis side of things. I have a habit of letting things get out of hand lol
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kee
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,988
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keep it simple and finish it no point with rose joints unless you are racing it.
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Hi Kev, As you can imagine, I'm still busy with my car. I have managed to get my car featured in " Mini Magazine" in "On the job" section. I'm near starting my engine so this will be fun! Manifold wise, let me know when you needed. I hope you still have my address if not, pm me. How about super chager and turbo together for this car? A guy I knew has one long time ago... well almost 13 years ago. I think it was only 2 in UK. Super charger for lower rev and turbo for higher rev!# Cheers Atchi
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Building roof chopped, screen raked '68 Mini with G13B 1.3 16v Gti engine with LSD, Yamaha R1 carbs. As well as mk1 Suzuki Swift Gti AWD with a turbo. Drives PHEV Outlander but wishing my mk1 Swift Gti or mk2 CRX Vt were still with me!
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keep it simple and finish it no point with rose joints unless you are racing it. You are right, the rose joints arent really needed for the road. The main reason i want them is for correcting the roll centre on the front, the arms are pointing up at a terrible angle and the car has fairly severe bumpsteer. Although i have already started to make alterations to the front hubs too make the bumpsteer less severe. don't worry this will defo get finished, i can jump in and drive it as it is, but its missing a headlamp and indicator. Cheers Kev
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Hi Kev, As you can imagine, I'm still busy with my car. I have managed to get my car featured in " Mini Magazine" in "On the job" section. I'm near starting my engine so this will be fun! Manifold wise, let me know when you needed. I hope you still have my address if not, pm me. How about super chager and turbo together for this car? A guy I knew has one long time ago... well almost 13 years ago. I think it was only 2 in UK. Super charger for lower rev and turbo for higher rev!# Cheers Atchi Thats awesome that you got it featured i cant wait too see it finished. As for my car iam stuck with a 1000cc 16v gearbox which will blow up if i have more than 100hp and the torque from a boosted engine will destroy it very rapidly. Also its my daily driver so bike carbs will be more than enough I will search through my pms on 16vminiclub and send you a pm regarding the flanges, thanks mate, ill be in touch soon. Kev
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kee
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,988
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bumpsteer can be adjusted by moving the position of the rack and the angle of the arms etc. although you seem to already know some of that judging by your name and your convo's with atchi did you put a G13B in a mini? i have a mate, also on the 16v mini club, who races with one of those, and hes currently building a bike powered racer with his dad. i'd love to put a G13B in my fiesta, such a good engine and so light too.
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Yeah i did almost finish putting in a g13b but threw in the towel before i finished it. I started it before uni, rushed some bits, got offered a xr2i engined mk2 fiesta, blew that up, fitted zetecs. Then i got a drift car lol and all the other projects got neglected The mini hasnt been touched in about 4 years They are an awesome engine if you can find bits and stop the gearbox blowing up!! I think i recognise your name from xrtwo!?? I learnt a bit about suspension at uni but my driftcar has taught me a curse word load more. I modded some hubs for stupid amounts of steering lock and also to make the steering quicker. Its a 200sx which makes 50* steering angle in 1.25 turns. Standard is 36* steering angle in 1.75 turns the reason why i want to mod the hubs is because they cost me 20quid and can be easily replaced. ill probably leave it cose the bumpsteer makes it more exciting cheers kev
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kee
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,988
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i'm planning on doing that to improve the turn on mine too ;D yeah i'm on xrtwo.com under the same name and probably same sig too. the 4wd boxes are pretty strong I'm told, from a justy i think. if you want to let the engine/box etc. go for a good price in the future, let me know
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rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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Would love to pick yours and Kee's brains about loosing the bump steer as mine in shocking for it and I have no idea what to do to stop it
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Ryan, there are two ways to do it: 1) make it so you can space the rack up and down. Remove the springs and raise and lower the suspension. Adjust rack up and down until you can raise the suspension without the steering angle changing 2) Rosejoint the lower arms and using the same method as above, space the rosejoint off the hub until you get as little change in steering angle as possible. Anyone else getting slightly confused by the conversation between 'swiftmini' and 'miniswift'?
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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Oh and you can also shorten the steering rack and lengthen the steering arms....
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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Its more confusing on 16vminiclub lol everyone is called mini something or swift something lol As above ^^^ its all about getting the arms in sync. If you look at your front suspension with the car on the ground (not jacked up) you will notice that the tirod is pointing up at about 30* and the lower arms is about 15* approx. You want too aim to get the arms parallel too each other and pretty parallel to the ground. Well thats my opinion based on what i have been reading for the last few years obviously there is more to it than that but you will have a far better handling car than it is now. This is a good thread zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/296725-roll-center-suspension-pickup-steering-angle-modification-thread.htmlFor s bodies though, but still relevant.
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kee
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,988
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alan staniforth explains it all well in one of his books. best thing to do is take the spring out and then you can lift the wheel to see how it is affected and do what adam says with the steering arms until bump steer is eliminated
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Its a bit of a myth that all bump steer is bad btw. A lot of manufacturers dial in a bit of bump steer to counter torque steer or side effects of having compliant bushes. However if you don't know whats your bump steer is doing then getting rid of it is the best place to start.
Moving the rack around will also change your Ackerman geometry so be careful....
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1997 TVR Chimaera 2009 Westfield Megabusa
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rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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hmm it sounds like its going to be very comlicated and precise, and I cant do precise ;D Thanks for the info so far though I'm gonna have to find that book kee and give it a good read!
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