1986 Toyota AW11 MR2 - Turbo Time.

[darrenh]

Oct 18, 2012 21:25:13 GMT ToolsnTrack said:

just a double flare I need to make that seal, correct? Can I reuse the old union bolt?

yeah can reuse the old union aslong as its normal snub nosed job.

hastily googled example for picture reference...

www.cbsonline.co.uk/pub/files/Products/Braking_and_Clutch_System/Brake_System_Parts/Unions/.thumbnails/1283773043_bu10ms_w250_h250.jpg

[ToolsnTrack]

Nice one. I cant remember off hand if it is, but I'm sure its certainly shorter than that. I had torqued it right up to the last thread and the pipe still had jiggle room... :/

[will930]

hey there just a quick question where did you manage to ghet the master cylinder from? as my 87 corolla gti has the same mysterious disapearing dot 4 issue and auto factors are quoting me nearly 100 on trade for a new one (ouch)

great car and so much dedicatioon i love it.

I'm hoping that due to both being toyota of the same age they will be pretty much the same slave cylinder.

[ToolsnTrack]

I got it on eBay. Once I get to a real computer I'll pm u the link. Should be the same unit. Got a build thread?

[ToolsnTrack]

Ooooh, a steering rack arrived today. This should be a productive week!

[ToolsnTrack]

PROGRESS!

Had a wee sesh on the car last night. Priority was to get it on its wheels again as i have a house move in 10 days and its the biggest big of furniture i own in its current state!



First up, throw the rack in roughly where it should be...



Then make it a bit more permanent!



Thought i was doing well getting it all torqued up and toight. Then i saw the steering wheel when the front wheels were lined up straight ahead. Oh well....



That just leaves this tricky dick. Ordered up some long length M10 fittings to see if they solve the non-seating problem. Also in the post is a nice Sealey flare kit and a new bleeding bottle with one way valve.

I love new tools!

[Twincam]

I've recently had to replace the master cylinder on my AE82 corolla. I couldn't get hold of a new one for love nor money - anywhere that listed them always came back as out of stock/NLA when you went to order. Toyota didn't make them either.

Toyota did still do a rebuild kit though (think it was about £35) which is what I ended up doing. So if all else fails, you probably have this option (although from memory MR2 is a different part number so may still be available).

[pork]

I love this car!!!

Totally changed my opinion off them, good stuff

[ToolsnTrack]

Oct 24, 2012 18:03:25 GMT Twincam said:

I've recently had to replace the master cylinder on my AE82 corolla. I couldn't get hold of a new one for love nor money - anywhere that listed them always came back as out of stock/NLA when you went to order. Toyota didn't make them either.

Toyota did still do a rebuild kit though (think it was about £35) which is what I ended up doing. So if all else fails, you probably have this option (although from memory MR2 is a different part number so may still be available).

Nah, i got a full replacement master cyl for that. Needs fettling to make the union fit but thats still far less than the fettling to repair a master with a rebuild kit!

[ToolsnTrack]

It just never ends with this car at the moment. bought a Sealey flare kit from the bay. Wait all week for it to arrive, get it today, attempt to flare clutch line to attach to new master cylinder.

First attempt, no flare, the line slips out of the clamp.

Second attempt, clamp does this:



For the record, that was hand tight. Broke that with the raw force of... a thumb.

Now, problem is i think the clutch line might be a steel one rather than copper. Am i curse word in the wind trying to flare this with a brake kit?

[ToolsnTrack]

Broken tool now on its way back to eBay seller. Pipe still sat unflared. Moving house tomorrow, having to leave the wee mr2 behind in in-laws garage for now.....


I hate the way being a grown up saps the mojo right out of things... MR2 one flare and a fluid bleed away from being in the best shape of its life. Camaro a distant memory, and will be for a few years now while i build a garage to house it. Even the Vitara hasn't had the chance for as much as an oil change since i bought it.




Mojo bending the needle on empty.

[ToolsnTrack]

Cracked it (I think...)

Got back from Bahrain last night, shattered but determined to suss this annoying but long winded problem out. Went to my new man cave and had a faff with some copper line, the new master cyl, and a borrowed master flare tool.

After establishing how to double flare, I mocked up a trial with a bit of copper line to make sure it worked. I also have some new unions, (clutch fitting is 12mm by the way, but the I/d is bigger than 3/16 brake line type).

Even with the longer 12mm unions, the brake line was still wiggling inside, unseated. A bit of deduction and I have worked out the issue. Pattern parts! The casting for the master cylinder is too bloody wide. As such, the union threads right up to the hex without meeting the pipe flare.

BODGE TIME!

Out and the angle grinder with a precision blade, and I delicately lopped off around 5mm from the face of the master cyl where the union threads in. Works a treat, even with the old, shorter union that was on the car.

Will need to try and finish tonight (and get pics) as the poor MR2 is still sat in the outlaws garage. Fingers crossed themaster flare tool will work on the larger steel clutch line pipe, or the next option is invariably going to be rip the whole line out and replace with copper stuff...

[ToolsnTrack]

Did the master flare tool work?



Yes. Did the flare hold when tested against fluid?



Yes. Is my car running again?

No. Needs bled, and with a clutch line running the length of the car, it really is a 2 man job. i am but one man.


Soon....

[ToolsnTrack]

Get in! Tonight i hit the success pig.

Needed a fair bit of bleeding, a jump start, and the steering wheel is cocked at 90 degrees, and sittish due to lack of tracking, and the bite point is 7 microns off the floor due to the arm being well wound in on the adjuster screw....... but it drives!

Next step, get it out the outlaws garage and down to the new hoose. In the mean time i brought the rest of my garage tools down in the Vitara. I tell ya, nothing helps you sleep better at night than knowing your tools are with ya!

[ToolsnTrack]

Further tinkering tonight. Went to the outlaws armed with basic tools. Adjusted the clutch to a more reasonable height, to a good result. Also whipped the wheel off and reattached 90 deg around so it drives "straight" (It only looks like it, more later). After that i fired in all the frunk gubbins and deemed it shakedown time....


Except it wasnt. Needed a jump again, which was a bit concerning as i did give it a run yesterday, but in fairness not very far. Vitara on hand and it was running fairly easily. My concern is its either a goosed battery (has had many full to drained cycles over the past few months sadly) or a goosed alternator, which certainly makes its bearing objections known on first start these days.

Country road blast: Steering feels substantially weighted, and solid. Massive improvement over before, but ermagerd is the tracking out. Got it up to 70 and i thought it was going to pounce into a hedge on its own accord.

Engine was a bit sluggish to begin with, but this might be down to the alternator sapping a lot for charging and it clearing the damp out. Still pulls well!

All in I'm happy. Will try and get it back to my own house tonight if time permits, then give her a wee clean!

[ToolsnTrack]

So the violent judder is still there. The one that caused me to pull it off the road months ago. I cant beat around the bush, and i don't think i can blame it on dodgy tracking. Its there. As pronounced as ever, when turning left above 50mph.

This leads me to a few logical conclusions:

1. All the components I have changed over the past few months (of which there were many faulty ones needing done) were not at fault, meaning it was a partial epic time-waste.

2. Whats left is the tracking potentially having been bad in the first place, which may be a case of re-calibrate and cure. This is unlikely because I suspect....

3. I have somehow, unbeknownst to me, buckled the nuts off one of my front Image split rims. If this has happened, I will not only start mass genocide against anyone who works in Scottish council departments, but will probably be found weeping myself to sleep with a lump hammer. BUT!...

4. It may be I have lost a balance weigh from one of said Image split rims. Oh lordy, how I pray this is the case. Frankly though, I doubt it. It is oh-so violent, waaay beyond the call of a wheel balance issue.


What the ruddy nora is causing this?? Its going in to get tracking and wheel balance done this weekend. Results will determine my presence at this months Retro Edinburgh Midnight run below....

retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=eam&action=display&thread=139803

[mrluke]

Ooo I might be able to help.

I have had a nightmare fixing clunking in the rear suspension of my aw11.

First thing to check is how tight the hub nut is. For the rear this needs to be over 140ftlbs. Id imagine the front is fairly similar. When you do these up you need to tighten them up then loosen them and retighten a few times. If you just torque it up once they have a tendency to come lose.

Next thing, have you killed another wheel bearing already? My rear hubs were worn, garage thought they would be okay and pressed in a new wheel bearing, it lasted 20 motorway miles.

If its making a definite knocking noise then get a pry bar and give everything a good pull to try and find the movement, it must be there somewhere.

[soretro]

If the vibration is below 60 its balancing, a quick way to check if the aligment is out is by putting wet newspaper on a concrete floor and driving straight over it the paper should stay intact if it tears on a particular side the alignment is out on that wheel and can be adjusted on the tie rod this is only an indicator and can't be used for permanent adjustement. But works well as a get me there solution, as tolerances are so small. It is always a good idea to ask the alignment mechaic to toe in the car slightly. Sort of 0.01 instead of 0.00. It is often overlooked because we rely on machines and they only measure stationery alignment but once a car begins to accelerate especially in fwd vehicles the front wheels automatically toe out, so in order to get it to run true you have to toe in

[jaykay]

is it worth checking for a dodgy tire too? i put a partworn on my golf which turned out to be knacked, the car had never sounded so bad,vibrations and thudding coming through the streering, went when i changed the tyre.

[mrluke]

Nov 27, 2012 22:00:39 GMT soretro said:

If the vibration is below 60 its balancing, a quick way to check if the aligment is out is by putting wet newspaper on a concrete floor and driving straight over it the paper should stay intact if it tears on a particular side the alignment is out on that wheel and can be adjusted on the tie rod this is only an indicator and can't be used for permanent adjustement. But works well as a get me there solution, as tolerances are so small. It is always a good idea to ask the alignment mechaic to toe in the car slightly. Sort of 0.01 instead of 0.00. It is often overlooked because we rely on machines and they only measure stationery alignment but once a car begins to accelerate especially in fwd vehicles the front wheels automatically toe out, so in order to get it to run true you have to toe in

If your wheel is hanging off you will get vibration below 60.

Toe out on acceleration is much more of an issue in fwd, 0 toe is also not the perfect setting, theres plenty of good reason to have a degree either in OR out.