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Dads xr4 is now running spot on, So I decided to give it a little blip up the road.... Upon doing this I realised that when the clutch comes up to biting point theres a wobble... Now at a guess I was thinking engine mount/ gearbox mount? But having no expierience of fords/sierras I thought id ask? Just incase they have a frail bushing somewhere thats an obvious cause? Have some pics for your troubles....      |
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Last Edit: Mar 13, 2011 15:45:20 GMT by retrowagen1234
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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could be either a soft gearbox mount rubber (they go like jelly when oil contaminated), or an engine mount (less likely) or oil, maybe rust on the flywheel, or a warped clutch plate ?
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R.I.P photobucket
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could be either a soft gearbox mount rubber (they go like jelly when oil contaminated), or an engine mount (less likely) or oil, maybe rust on the flywheel, or a warped clutch plate ? Pretty sure its not clutch related as if i ride it its fine. Its just when i try to drive normally it gets a bit of a wobble on..... Gonna get the exhaust finished today so ill have a look when I'm under there. Cheers mate. If anyone thinks of anything else please say ;D |
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,650
Club RR Member Number: 1
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Since I bought my 2.8 Capri ive had the same issue, mine turned out to be the Propshaft bearing and rubber.
I don't know if the AR4i has these but on mine once it was changed the car felt amazing.
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Since I bought my 2.8 Capri ive had the same issue, mine turned out to be the Propshaft bearing and rubber. I don't know if the AR4i has these but on mine once it was changed the car felt amazing. Could well be..... Ill try that next.  Going to replace the gearbox mount. Not sure what they are meant to look like. But after being under it a second a go it doesnt look healthy. The cup that retains it has dropped and I'm guessin there should be a rubber bush in there to prevent that. So just phoned camberly autofactors who are listing them at £21 so off to get one in a mo ;D It could also explain some of the vibration when running. As the engine is realy healthy sounding. no knocks or rattles but theres a very ressonant vibration thru the car... |
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Last Edit: Mar 7, 2011 12:13:12 GMT by retrowagen1234
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if the box mount is dead you should feel a lot of vibration through the stick
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Someone just shot the elephant in the room. |
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MWF
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,945
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There is a donut in the prop that's worth looking at, I snapped a bolt in mine during a hard launch.
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IDY
Part of things
Posts: 893
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There is a donut in the prop that's worth looking at, I snapped a bolt in mine during a hard launch. Definitely worth inspecting, the one on my old XR4x4 had cracks in the rubber which I ignored  not a wise decision as it broke up as I accelerated down a dual carriageway |
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I will get round to finishing it at some point
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Changed the gearbox mount. Still wobbling  I took a look at that doughnut when i was under there and it seems fine.... Also the prop seems to have no play that i can feel. Gonna get dad to drive it tonight slowly and see if i can see any movement at the motor end.... It only happens in 1st/second too. Not reverse... And strangely seems to come from the rear O/S wheel  |
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The engine mounts are week on XR4i,s
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1955 Austin A30
1981 Jawa Mustang
1990 Trabant 601 (Tommy)
1989 Trabant 601
2009 Jaguar XF
2012 Toyota AYGO
2018 Scomadi TL
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3 door shells are pretty lightweight and floppy, don't rely on what your senses tell you if something isn't right, the shell is very bendy, course that don't mean its NOT the rear wheel.  |
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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haha knowing my luck its the whole blooming subframe going walkies each time...
Think I'm going to have a better look at the engine mounts and see where that leaves me. don't realy want to be taking the box off as ive just got the exhaust sealed up..... lol
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There is a donut in the prop that's worth looking at, I snapped a bolt in mine during a hard launch. Definitely worth inspecting, the one on my old XR4x4 had cracks in the rubber which I ignored not a wise decision as it broke up as I accelerated down a dual carriageway That brought back a memory ;D As to the wobble. Even if the shaft 'feels' good it can still move a lot Change the donut anyway as they can make a spectacular mess  if they go. If memory serves they were fairly cheap in the late 90's a sI used to go threough a couple a year |
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dowot
Part of things
Posts: 105
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check the rear beam mounts and the trailing arm bushes....worth a 5 min check ..  |
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Definitely worth inspecting, the one on my old XR4x4 had cracks in the rubber which I ignored not a wise decision as it broke up as I accelerated down a dual carriageway That brought back a memory ;D As to the wobble. Even if the shaft 'feels' good it can still move a lot Change the donut anyway as they can make a spectacular mess if they go. If memory serves they were fairly cheap in the late 90's a sI used to go threough a couple a year Cheers for the headsup... Will get onto the motorfactors today and see if they are available check the rear beam mounts and the trailing arm bushes....worth a 5 min check .. Gotta be worth a check i guess... Are the diffs solid mount on these? Sware theres gotta be a rubber there? Dad mentioned it to a guy this morning whos into his fords (albeit mk1/2 scorts) But he said poss diff mount.... As the wobble is coming from the rear..... |
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think there is rubber pad under there, I'm half sure i got a poly replacement for one of mine once, If your taking the rear to bits, bin it and get one from an XR4i with a slipper, its the single best mod you can do to the car and will make it LOTS more fun.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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It will probably end up with a slipper at some point. I'm half tempted to just drop the whole rear frame out. Ive got to make new brake lines under the rear anyway. And the arms have some rust on them....... Cant seem to find a mount though. Unless i opted for a expensive one |
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robg2
Part of things
Posts: 815
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I've no specific XR4i experience, but from other cars my money would be on the clutch being knackered. New pressure plate and friction plate req'd.
Riding / slipping the clutch can disguise the issue, but you'll get bored of it in normal driving.
Slack mounts might amplify the wobble, but it will start in the clutch.
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It will probably end up with a slipper at some point. I'm half tempted to just drop the whole rear frame out. Ive got to make new brake lines under the rear anyway. And the arms have some rust on them....... Cant seem to find a mount though. Unless I opted for a expensive one Thats what i did, gets complicated just swopping the diff because XR4x4's will have discs on the back and use different driveshafts that don't slot into the drum brake hubs, you can get a rear end with a slipper and drum brakes but they are so rare its not worth looking for one second hand these days. 2 litre 4x4's used a different diff ratio so you want a V6 one. |
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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MWF
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,945
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check the rear beam mounts and the trailing arm bushes....worth a 5 min check .. Seconded. Also worth uprating anyway, I had 9-0's on mine, might still be some left out there. |
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not a wise decision as it broke up as I accelerated down a dual carriageway
if they go. If memory serves they were fairly cheap in the late 90's a sI used to go threough a couple a year