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Apr 21, 2011 15:08:33 GMT
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Cheers!  markbognor: well I bet your not jelous of all the rust repairs...  Hmmm - she fired into life quit happily today, after almost exactely 1 month since the last time Wanted to switch the space as I hope it's a bit better working in the other half of the carport, at least the floor is level there And no, I did NOT crash-park her, that's just some planks on the floor there But... A fuel line is split and it ran much too rich. I guess that's because I depressed the pedal 3x before starting (cold start enrichment). Which is only meant for sub-zero temperatur starting... Whooops...  And as my bronchitis is curing, I'm positiv to start working on her tomorrow, starting where I left - searching for more rusty patches... In the meanwhile I got hold of original Workshop Manual CD - should help dismantling the dashboard etc. Cheers, Jan |
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Apr 22, 2011 14:33:25 GMT
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Happy easter surprise! Went to investigate the jammed driver's side door lock today. Well - first observation; the anti-mist membrane is missing, the inside of the door is covered in bitumen like everything on the car (annoying to remove!). And then - surprise! ;D This is supposed to be attached to the lock barrel...  And this is supposed to be freely moving...  So I dismantled the totaly rotten and dirty and effed lock - the barrel is basically scrap.    I'm searching for a replacement lock now, then transfere the discs and then it should work again Cheers, Jan PS: Hope you lot did find only nice easter surprises ;D |
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Apr 23, 2011 13:45:07 GMT
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Soooo - today I attacked the hatch (or do you call it boot lid!?) Luckily it wasn't as bad as it looks at first glance. But: it's 'rescue in last second'. The rust has allready bitten deep into the metal. I'll need a bit more aggresive brushes for the drill to remove it completely. But I think it's possible to save it. Badly covered rust:  But solid underneath. Pheew!  Welded up a smal pinhole...  Some dents I couldn't knock out, they needed a bit of lead. Bit more detailed than last time, as I guess it's still of interest First a thin coat of the flux is applied and heated up untill all the lead is molten and 'burned' into the metal (don't burn it though!!). The residue of the flux needswiping awaywith a wet rag.   Then the lead is applied. At first just put on lead - no need to distribute it yet. What matters now is to put material on the tin. Heat both tin and lead, keep it shiny. Put the lead on with a 'flick of the wrist'.  If you think it's enough to fill the dent, heat it, keep it shiny - but don't heat is as much to turn it liquid - it will run away... And then distrubute it with a wooden spatula. It's best to coat it with lin seal to avoid burning and the lead sticking to it. Work it like normal filler and stroke with the torch to keep it like a paste.  And remember: it needs less heat than you think  If the lead turns flakywhilst you distribute it, it needs a bit more heat. Keep it in a state that resembles normal filler.  And then, file it down with a rasp. Or sand or grind down, but wear a VERY good, professional respirator!! After all it's real lead...  And then - voilá! Dent-be-gone.  In this case I reworked the edge too, as there was a V shaped dent right on the edge that I could'nt knock out completely... Lead is very good for that kind or work.  And finaly, a very thin coat of filler to remove the grooves from the rasap and sanding and put on a coat of paint to prevent it from rusting again.  More on monday, when I get a thicker brush for rust removal. Then I'll attack the rest of the boot lid. On the inside it all covered with a truck load of wax... Very nice! And it actuallydid rust from the outside... So myhopes are high that it wont continue to rust if I can stop the surface rust I attacked now. Cheers, Jan |
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Apr 23, 2011 14:40:18 GMT
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Looks like it's the trim that's caused most of the problem with rusting on your tailgate, and it looks like you caught it in plenty of time. Keep up the good work |
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Apr 23, 2011 15:18:29 GMT
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Only thing I would say is that it is better to do one little bit at a time. Get the car on the road and driving every day and just do a little bit at a time.
I've done it the other way... that's to strip the car down and get the big work done... but that was 5 years ago and I still have not put it back together!
Just my personal opinion, but I prefer to keep the car working and to do one small bit at a time and complete it within a few hours. Keep the car complete and finish each job before starting the next one. Otherwise you will just end up with a load of parts and no car.
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Apr 23, 2011 15:27:42 GMT
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Oh, and must be really, really slow... isn't it? Today I'm doing a little bit of rust repair on my 900 8v daily driver. I'm running out of time. Want to get colour and clear-coat on before I go home today. I got this late last year. Didn't cost me anything. Great for smoking about in. 118bhp ! yipeee..  |
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Apr 23, 2011 15:40:41 GMT
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Only thing I would say is that it is better to do one little bit at a time. Get the car on the road and driving every day and just do a little bit at a time. Otherwise you will just end up with a load of parts and no car. Agreed, completely! If you can avoid taking a car off the road to work on it then you can at least enjoy it. As soon as you start stripping it down you find job after job and before you know it you have a car in bits Cracking looking Saab you've got there too. |
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Apr 23, 2011 16:21:43 GMT
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Only thing I would say is that it is better to do one little bit at a time. Get the car on the road and driving every day and just do a little bit at a time. I've done it the other way... that's to strip the car down and get the big work done... but that was 5 years ago and I still have not put it back together! Just my personal opinion, but I prefer to keep the car working and to do one small bit at a time and complete it within a few hours. Keep the car complete and finish each job before starting the next one. Otherwise you will just end up with a load of parts and no car. I absolutely agree! And that's what I plan... But: the holes I discovered now need urgent fixing,as with them I will not pass a TÜV inspection / MOT. Unfortunately that means to dissasemble the cockpit and interior to quite some extend... I try to keep the car together as far as possible. The pna is to fix her as far that she passes the TÜV/MOT and then go from there. She's stood long enough - it's time for her to return to the roads. On the other side - there's a hell of a lot of work that needs to be done... Like... Fitting wheels I went to inspect the rear brakes & wheels arches - all looking good, the caliper looks like it's brand new. Woo! And as I had the wheel off anyway, I couldn't resist... ;D     Bit close to the trailing arm - might need spacers, also close to the inner wheel arch/bump stop   Mmmmhm!  I guess about 2cm wider (hard to see in the picture) And as I went to the front wheel (sticking brake caliper... GRR!) - it started to rain. So I called it a day... Cheers, Jan |
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Apr 26, 2011 18:49:56 GMT
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OOOOOF - I think I know what colour it shall be once the car is finished...      That colour makes me horny!! 900 Surf Blue... That said; I hope I can avaoid a full respray. But if I can't - I think I'm going for that Surf Blue blue. Mmmmmmhyummy!! Didn't do anything to the car, holiday & work not permitting...  But tomorrow... Oh, and I've noticed that I forgott something quite important with my wing repair section...  Can you guess what...? ;D Cheers, Jan |
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To avoid a full respray, why not use that Surf Blue on the bottom half and repair any bits of the original top half paint as needed? You've got a nice smart line to work to with the chrome trim.
I do suggest two-tone paint a lot don't I?
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Mmmh - yes, I've toyed with that idea... But as the car is also sort of an financial investment for me, I'd like to keep it a single & original colour. That said I'm normaly a fan of good two-tone paint |
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Apr 27, 2011 12:28:12 GMT
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So, got me a wire brush wheel for the angle grinder this morning. To effectively remove the deep rust on the boot lid. Remember, this is how it looked... Every dark spot is corroded metal. After a first attack with the wire brush it looked like this...  Second attack with the wire brush, paint stripping disc and grinding disc and it looked like this...  Looks like blank, clean and rust free metal? Not realy... I've put on some flux - and it showed where there was still rust hiding. That's another cool thing with lead loading; it shows you ice-cold where no blank metal is... Every black spot means there's still rust or dirt/grease in the metal... If you'd put filler or paint over now - it would continue to rust. The rust has biten realy deep into the metal's pores. I guess that corner is very sensitive to rust, as the pressing probably caused a lot of microscopic cracks... So, that's all still very rusty:  So out with the dremel and remove every little spot of rust... Sometimes there were like 'rust bubbles' right through the core of the metal. I think it would've been easyer and better to cut out and replace with a new section - but where to take from, if not stealing? Most boot lids I've seen for sale are rusty at the very same spot (hencemy theory with the micro-cracks from pressing). IF you can one that doesn't cost a fortune... Dremel time:  Fluxed the metal again. And on with some lead... I still need to learn not to put too much material to the metal...  And a bit of shaping with the angle grinder and sanding paper, some paint to seal it:  And that's the worst corner (of the boot lid ;D) saved. On to the next one...  And last but not least, a still life from my working place...  Cheers, Jan |
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Apr 27, 2011 17:50:55 GMT
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hi jan,following this closely although i don't think i'll be going to the same extremes as you with the bodywork for the moment ! lol mines going to need more work underneath i think,(havnt got it home yet ) plus all the brakes will need sorting and the suspension lowering ! stroke of luck you doing a wagon too cheers mate, del. |
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Apr 27, 2011 18:21:23 GMT
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hi jan,following this closely although I don't think i'll be going to the same extremes as you with the bodywork for the moment ! lol mines going to need more work underneath I think,(havnt got it home yet ) plus all the brakes will need sorting and the suspension lowering ! stroke of luck you doing a wagon too cheers mate, del. Hi del! Well - some call me pedantic ;D The brakes on mine will probably need a rebuild, at least the front calipers are my concern. The rest is allready brand new (if 5 years old). Like pads & discs. I've not had a very close look on the floor yet - but I hope it's OK. At least at first glance it is. But I'm in two minds wheter to strip the rear suspension or not... I'll see... My plan is to work the car from the front to the rear and do everything that needs to be done urgently. Which is mostly rust as far as I can see yet. I'm still undecided if I should lower it or not... Maybe very slightly, 0.5-1" Cheers, Jan PS: Open up a project thread! I'd love to read about your wagon to keep me from working ;D PPS: Just for the record: I've broken the boot lock in an attempt to repair it... *ARGH!* |
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Apr 27, 2011 18:55:05 GMT
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yeh i'll start up a thread soon.going up to dads on saturday so i'll take some pics and post them up. it'll make yours look a minter good thing over here is as long as there are no major jagged edges on the bodywork,then the mot isnt so tough on the bodywork ! ( good job in mycase thankgoodness ! lol ) hoping to go alot lower than what you have planned,but we'll see when the time comes. cheers, del. |
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Apr 28, 2011 15:26:36 GMT
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yeh i'll start up a thread soon.going up to dads on saturday so i'll take some pics and post them up. it'll make yours look a minter TBH I prefere cars where the rot and damage is obvious - unlike my own car ;D Makes it a lot easyer to repair good thing over here is as long as there are no major jagged edges on the bodywork,then the mot isnt so tough on the bodywork ! ( good job in mycase thankgoodness ! lol ) hoping to go alot lower than what you have planned,but we'll see when the time comes. cheers, del. Yeah, german TÜV is tough... But so far I've always got my cars through with a new stamp Today these arrived with the post  Expensive, but they will make life a lot easyer Today I corrected my misstake on the wing. What I didn't realise is that there are TWO recesses to bolt the wing to the sill. The PO left it out with his bodge repair. And I didn't look at the other wing... Anyway; some drilling, some beating (goes very nice with that new hammer ) and some welding...    Dressed up as good as possible (I'd need an air grinder or something like that for corners like that) and drenched in paint. I'm probably going to swap that wing for a new one in the future. But for now it's a good object to practice bodywork and panel beating. Boot lid is finished aswell, but didn't take any photos. Same procedure as in the post above. Cheers, Jan |
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Apr 30, 2011 11:40:25 GMT
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ARGH. This is going to be a royal pain in the ass... Stripped a bit more of the underseal today...  But I have a plan of attack. What I don't know yet is how I'm going to cut in that corner, the angle grinder is too big. Guess I'll have to take the dremel... ARGH x2. And I have to fab all the panels myself, as they'r either not available or cost mega-money. And I don't realy want to buy a complete front arch with parts of the frame for 900€ and then cut it up for a few comparably smal patches. No no. And a very nice hifi install from the PO...   Ok, I can live with that^ But... What's that:  Nice! Blue tape FTW! ;D At least I know where I'm going to put the FM-modulator. Luckily I saved it from the W124 before I sold it. Heehee. As it will allow me to connect a MP3 player to the Blaupunkt (top of p. 2). Cheers, Jan |
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Finaly got round to convince myself that I could actually do a little more work on the car... So I stripped the sounddeadening on the firewall - which resulted in a lot of swearing. As the expensive PVC matt ripped apart and the disgusting, sticky sound deadening foam was still stuck to the firewall... After more swearing and heavy usage of a heat gun I got it off. With a sore back and more swearing... And found good news - and bad news. The good news is: the hole is much smaler than I thought it would be, and the floor pan,where it meets the sill is free of rot. This is another common place for the brown stuff - not on my car. Phew!  The bad news is - I discovered some other holes...  Hmm - there's only one hole supposed to be near the A-Pillar...  Dam. This means that I'm probably going to strip the complete dashboard and stuffand remove the connecting panel between A-pillar & wheel arch. There are soem more holes directely IN a drain... And if I can't fix it form the inside, I need to remove the complete wheel arch... Or hack it into pieces and but-weld it together... I need a new plan of attack... And that's where my mojo said "F**k you kind sir!" and left me for today... ;D If I continue with that speed it will take a few years to make it a car again Cheers, Jan |
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So, I removed the panel today... I guess it was high time to intervene...   And... Yes. That's...  The removed panel doesn't look any better... Rust has bitten deep...   ^The metal is so thin I ripped three holes in it with the knot wheel...  The new panel comes at a handy 60€! The panel I marked as 'kaputt' is NLA. I cut a W124 bonnet up to make a repair panel for the 'kaputt' panel. For the other panel from the A-Pilar... Well, I guess I have to spend the 60€. There are 3 overlapping panels that join in that corner which also serves as a drain. What a mess! So better to replace then keep rusty panels... But I guess it was a good idea to disasemble those panels rather than trying to work with rust inhibitors and converters... The rust has bitten deep - much better to replace with fresh metal Very complicated corner there - but better to start with the complicated stuff. Leves the more enjoyable work for the finish  Cheers, Jan |
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s123
Part of things
Posts: 45
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Great work! This is really a nice car :-)
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_______________________________________
Life's more painless for the brainless.
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If the lead turns flakywhilst you distribute it, it needs a bit more heat. Keep it in a state that resembles normal filler.
I guess about 2cm wider (hard to see in the picture)
Can you guess what...? ;D
The new panel comes at a handy 60€! The panel I marked as 'kaputt' is NLA. I cut a W124 bonnet up to make a repair panel for the 'kaputt' panel.