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Dec 14, 2009 17:18:20 GMT
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blimey. seeing how they manage to put that concise, govt approved legislation freely and easily available to all FOC on a government website makes our authorites look like a bunch of amateurs. when were here having to have extended discussions about our builds because VOSA cant even decide what the rules are/aren't!! That's something we are trying to achieve but without making them think it's a bigger problem than it is... requiring a sledgehammer to deal with it:( Building a ground up is well catered for by the BIVA / SVA regs. It is the middle ground of modifying an existing car that creates problems with the rules ( as there is no rulebook on line ,or anywhere, that 'we' have access to ) . Have a search through for ADR2000 rules which cater for limitations /modifications to existing vehicles in Australia.
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Last Edit: Dec 14, 2009 18:40:06 GMT by kapri
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Dec 14, 2009 17:40:16 GMT
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I've got something to add about grinders. Bosch, Dewalt and Makita are basically king in the grinder world. However, Dewalt ones are ridiculously noisy in comparison and I don't like the placement of the spindle lock. Bosch are very expensive and Makita seems to bridge the gap between them all so gets the vote from me too.
I disagree with Dez about the cutting discs. I bought a pack of Makita 1mm ones over the Erbauer ones and they were a lot more expensive but they just don't wear out. I did loads of work on a mate's Zodiac and only half used two discs. I was really surprised, so pay a bit more and it'll pay back later.
Looking after your cutting discs helps as well. As per what Dez said I can't stress how important it is to not force a cut. Just let the grinder do the work and don't push the disc through too far and it'll last forever.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 14, 2009 18:27:48 GMT
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i most definately agree about dewalt johnny they are very noisy, and the head is a lot bigger- it kinda has a 'point' to it at the front which really hampers access. the one i had lasted less than a year too. to me the large head and excess noise indicates lower build quality than the other two brands, as does the shorter service life, and its because of this i wouldnt put them in the same league as bosch or makita.
ive never used makita cutting discs, as they're way too spendy for me. i get through large amounts of cutting discs with metalwork being my trade, so i bulk buy- i can get two BOC ones to the price of one makita, hence me never using them, but from using their grinding discs id expect what you say to be perfectly true.
oh, and as somebody said further up, get some steel toecap boots if you havent already. i dropped a big ol' chunk of 1/4" steel on my toe today and id have a broken toe or two right now if i hadnt had changed form my trainers to boots when i got here this morning, as it cut through the leather to the toecap!
they just need to invent steel fingercap gloves now- in the last year or so ive smashed off two fingernails that have each taken about 4 months to grow back, once bashing my hand with a th400 gearbox, and once by dropping a 10"x15" steel rim on my hand. ouch!!
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Dec 14, 2009 23:01:06 GMT
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Okay, a couple of questions for the experts.
First of all, with regards to wearing gloves whilst using grinders. I have been told in the past by various people, including TAFE (tech school) teachers, that it is dangerous to wear gloves when using a grinder, particularly a bench grinder, as the spinning wheel will grab the glove and drag you in. Would you say that this doesn't apply to angle grinders? Obviously with the angle grinder you don't get your hand quite so close to the grinding surface, so are the gloves more for protection from sparks?
My next question is regarding the MIG welders. I'm currently in the process of researching the purchase of one. At a shop yesterday I was told that if I was going to be doing any welding outside, I would need to use the gasless wire, as even the slightest wind will blow away the gas shield and cause weld contamination when using solid wire. Is this true? Also, for the moment I am only planning on welding a few small bits on my cars, perhaps 4 or 5 linear metres of weld at the most within the first few months of owning the welder. Is it worth buying a disposable bottle for this, and not renting a bottle of gas until after I start a more serious project?
Lastly, I'm currently deciding between a transformer-type CIG welder with only four power settings plus wire speed, and a significantly more expensive inverter-type UNIMIG with full control over current, voltage and wire speed. Is it worth stepping straight up to the expensive inverter for a beginner (and poor uni student)? In the experience of those who have used them, is a welder with four power settings controllable enough for thin sheet metal work?
Thanks a lot to all who are contributing to this thread, it's a great source of knowledge. Oh, and as an Automotive Engineering student, I have read the Street Rod regs and the Light Vehicle Modifications NCOP, and I have to say that they are indeed well written in plain english and excellent resources for telling you what's legal and what's not. I wish you guys luck in getting all of your regulations sorted out also.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 14, 2009 23:32:17 GMT
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id agree with not using it for a bench grinder, for the reason you say. on a bench grinder with an adjustable gate and full cased guard there is the potential for a glove to be sucked in between the grinding stone and the gate. i don't wear gloves for that anyway as i like to be able to feel whats going on more. if the workpiece gets to hot to hold ile put a clamp or molegrips on it to hold it. biggest reason i use gloves is cos i don't use a guard on the grinder- ive had too many bad experiences caused by the guard jamming against the disc or what I'm grinding to be comfortable with one. i know a lot of people would say this isnt clever either, but conversly theres more than a few people who think the same as me, and i wear gloves and am always aware of where the disc is in relation to my hands. so its a bit of take your choice really, i certainly wouldnt recommend anyone to do what i do and run without. the gasless wire thing is an absolute load of curse word. anyone telling you that must have been trying to sell you a gasless mig i weld outside using argoshield light, and yeah you will need to shield it form the wind to get good results- just cupping your gloved hand around it is usually enough. if you weld outside a lot, standard argoshield is better, as its got a higher argon content so is heavier= doesnt blow away as much. but doing most jobs indoor in my workshop, i use light as its cheaper cos of the lower argon content. i don't know how many linear metres youd get- depends on how fast you draw the weld, wire speed, etc. gas flow is measured in time cos of this. it should say on the manufactures blurb what cfm/hr you get from the cyl. id expect its still cheaper to tool up properly though. ive used a welder with the 4 power settings. it usually has one setting just too low to get adiquate penetration, and the next setting is just high enough to constantly blow holes in the sheetmetal. if youre experienced you can compensate for this, but youre a beginner, so you wont be able to! unless youre exceptionally patient, youll get very frustrated with it and end up giving it up as bad job. this wont be your fault, its cos the cheap equipment youre trying to use isnt right for the job in hand. adjustability is your friend, especially if your a beginner, as you can just tweak it a tidy bit and go from blowing holes to laying really good beads.
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Dec 14, 2009 23:48:03 GMT
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blimey. seeing how they manage to put that concise, govt approved legislation freely and easily available to all FOC on a government website makes our authorites look like a bunch of amateurs. when were here having to have extended discussions about our builds because VOSA cant even decide what the rules are/aren't!! Problem is in our country an awful lot of people seem to make an awful lot of money deciding what the rules are/aren't..... and almost always at our expense
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Last Edit: Dec 14, 2009 23:49:09 GMT by arrocuda
'71 Arrocuda.... '71 Sunbeam Rapier Turbo (The Grim Rapier).... '63 Hymek D7076..... Audi GT5S
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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time to move onto the next phase methinks!! now then, we can talk about buying stuff importantly, you need to break up your budget a bit here. don't go blowing all of it on a project car, as you'll then have no money to do buy anything for it or do anything to it. id say spend between a third and half of your budget on the base vehicle, then about a quarter to a third on the other major components- engines, any body panels you don't have, axles, wheels, etc. leaving you a quarter to a third for finishing- all the little bits that make everything work but soon add up to a big chunk of your spending. heres how my budget breaks down so far. base car= £1000 (+ £200 delivery) came with a lot of extra parts I need, inc. the rest of the body, seats, some spares, etc. body=£170. additional body bits £5. grille shell and bonnet= approx £30 (bought as part of a job lot) headlights= £80 rear lights= already had engine and gearbox= already had, paid £50 for engine and got gearbox, flywheel and clutch free with another project. steering wheel- already had. so I'm up to about £1535, and the major bits I still need to buy are- tyres steel to make the pickup bed and cab floor fuel tank brake master cyl. radiator. any other bits I will probably have laying round, or can be improvised form leftovers/scrap yard bargains. so I bet you,re all itching to see what ive bought so far aren't you?! well, you cant see the donor car just yet, cos it hasnt been delivered yet- that not happening til early january. it was my own personal choice that this car had to be all steel. I'm not saying theres anything wrong at all with fiberglass cars, and if youre on a budget and what something thirties or forties looking you really should be looking at them, but my forte is steel, not composites, so I prefer to work in metal. but, you can see the body and the grille and bonnet. serious trainspotter points to anyone who can ID the body (unless ive already told you or you know the person I got it off!). obscurity really was my friend on this one! I'm certain its ex-military as its RHD, has loads of extra switches and gubbins under the dash, and was originally drab green. overall, it has very little rust considering its age, and no major damage. the only real issue is the butchered/seized door hinges, which are rivetted on but have been cut in half, so need some repair. basically its the cowl, firewall, dash, front floor kickup, and the 2 front doors- it was originally a 4 door sedan, but with a little work with make the perfect (and very cheap) pickup cab. I see it as a bit of a compromise between condition, application, desirability, and looks. it certainly looks cool, especially from the front, but needs some adaptation to work as a pickup cab- the cab back making, the door corners radiusing, and the doors bringing in so they're parallel to each other, as they originally flare out as the back of the car is much wider. condition is good bar for a little rust at the bottom of the A-pillars and the surrounding area of floor, but this isnt too much of a concern as this area will need modifying when it gets channeled anyway. desirability is the point here- its obscurity is why it was cheap! its suprisingly complete too, all the door latch mechs are there, the drop glass (but not the 1/4 lights unfortunately), one window winder is there, the opposite side garnish moulding, and all the front screen garnish mouldings are there. theres even the throttle pedal and linkage still attached, and the ign. switch with the majority of the wiring loom! as mentioned its missing one window winder, on inner door window trim, the dash trim, glovebox lid and gauge panel, but in the scheme of things its nothing major, and not really anything that cant be replicated. it actually has some really, really cool features on it- nice cast ally handbrake handle with the complete mech there, so I can utilise it- one thing ticked off the list! amazingly cool deco-ish gauges. I really hope I can get these working!! cowl vent. needs the hinges free off and a missing linkage bar replacing, but the operating lever is there so it should be easy to get working. if whatever you buy has cool features like this, make use of them!! and to go with it, I picked up this grille and bonnet sides- less trainspotter points here, but it is still reasonably 'out-there'. again, that means less desirable, so I picked it up cheap. its steel too, a bit bashed in the centre and needing the bottom repairing (As youd expect really) and reattaching as its bizarrely been cut off, but fundimentally sound. I got three bonnet sides with it for some reason too, not sure where the thirds ones appeared from!! the last 5 quid of the body went on these- 2 model A sedan rear roof corners. perfect for making the top rear corners of the pickup cab
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2011 19:57:24 GMT by Dez
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this is gonna be one of those threads that makes a bit o history
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'90 Audi B3 Coupe 2.3 Auto [gone] '92 Audi S4 Avant 2.2 AAN Turbo Auto [gone] '93 Audi 80 Avant 1.9TDi [gone] '96 Audi A4 Avant 2.6 Quattro [gone] '97 VW T4 1.9td LWB [gone] '03 Skoda Octavia 1.9TDi [gone] '05 VW T5 Shuttle LWB 1.9TDi '15 VW Caddy Maxi Kombi 1.6TDi
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 15, 2009 21:04:05 GMT
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well, I think we'll have to see how good itll be as a thread- a long way to go yet! anyway, heres some pics of the other bits ive got. headlights- from a pre-war vauxhall 14, I think. side mount gives it away really though. pretty good nick, cast ally mounts, brass bowls and rims, all internals there and working, with the old style single filament bulb with a tilting mechanism to dip it, which I find fascinatingly cool. these were bought for something else but didnt suit, so were turned over to this project as I think sidemounted off the grille shell just above the bottom edge of the bonnet sides, they will look sweet. they ran me to 88 quid I think with delivery, but tbh that isnt much more than a pair of new 7" chrome sealed beam kitcar things, and I know what id rather have I like unusual parts ive had these pork pie rear lights for about 7 years now. they have reflectors mounted in the middle that the rims are rusty on(but makes them MOT friendly), but other than that appear to be NOS. they were a bit too 'utility' for my model A, but are ideal for a truck. gearbox. the ubiquitous type 9 out of sierra. cheap, cheerful, and can get another for about 50p if I break it being silly. that and it should drop straight onto existing mounts that have been fitted to chassis! will dig out engine and get some pics of that soon too. I'm fitting the pinto I already have in it to start with as the chassis I'm getting has got pinto mounts fitted, then will zetec it once a suitable donor turns up. I need to clean and paint it and refit the ancillaries before the chassis turns up anyway, will give me something to do in the evenings, and to try out the blast cabinet and parts washer ive just bought. there appears to be a bit of a running theme that everything ive bought so far for this build is at least partially green, so I think I may well keep that colour for the finished truck. in my head I see it green, beige or brown, with black or bronze(hammerite do a colour I really like) chassis/wheels/etc.
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2011 19:58:24 GMT by Dez
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Dec 15, 2009 21:15:27 GMT
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I don't have a scooby-doo what the hell the body is but its a lovely shape - and the windscreen is drool-worthy
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Your car is not 'epic', this thread is not 'epic'....the OCEAN is epic, the UNIVERSE is epic.... please stop misusing this word!! It would appear Hotrods are the new VWs - aint fashion funny! '69 BUICK LESABRE 350
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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Dec 15, 2009 21:45:41 GMT
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is it that 38 hudson (?) cowl section that was floating about a while back??
cool selection of bits there dez, enjoying seeing this one progress
- kfw
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,968
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Dec 15, 2009 22:00:46 GMT
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curse word! I've just spent the evening finding out what it is, to return to the thread and see the cat is already out of the bag. 1938 Hudson Terraplane
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Dec 15, 2009 22:03:01 GMT
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Dude, loving the thread. But you NEEED to put everything - beginning to end in the first post/on the first page.
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The journey of 1000 miles starts with a single coffee.
I don't like coffee!
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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Dec 15, 2009 22:14:11 GMT
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haha! - unlucky mark!! although there do seem to be some differences? - I remember frantically looking for ^^ dez's cowl section when on ebay a complete terraplance turned up - which had been dredged from a canal!! - it was roached - roof was peeled off like a sardine can, but bizzarely the front sheetmetal was pretty much all there - wonder what happened to it? iirc only sold for like 150 quid, but I was on a 'project ban' at the time...
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,968
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Dec 15, 2009 22:24:33 GMT
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I don't feel as unlucky about it as I did last week when my missus read the email I sent asking the seller to post what I had bought to work so that the wife didn't find out. I was wondering about that "missing" cowl vent on some other pictures I saw, but I think it just sits so flush, that unless it is actually a pic of the cowl its near invisible. This pic seems to show it, as does
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Last Edit: Dec 15, 2009 22:44:05 GMT by markbognor
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 15, 2009 22:30:33 GMT
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indeed it is kev. it has been floating round for a good long while now. mark, i cant believe you actually got it with no clues/words to search on. must have taken you a while!! id love to have those dash trims that are still fitted on that one, but ive been thinking i can replicate them close enough. ally plate cut and shaped, with the groves machined in should look pretty close i think, and i can use any old trim for the chrome stripe. i can fab up a new ashtray lid no problem, same goes for glovebox lid too. i idnt actually like that big round bit on it anyway, so i can do away with that, and i need more gauges in the drivers side, so i will probably do an ally panel that fills the whole glovebox blanking plate area. oh, and the woodgrain effect paint will be going too needabeetle, it will all be slimmed down and put onto one page at sometime in the future. as mentioned before, if its deemed good enough to go into the useful thread section it will happen then. a lot of what other people have written is as valid as what ive put though, its not just my bits you want to be reading!! kev, from what i can see, what ive got is identical to that one. id love to see pics of the canal one- i wonder how the hell it ended up there?!
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 15, 2009 22:32:54 GMT
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yeah, the cowl vent does sit very flush. the lever to operate it is there under the dash, so i assume its got it!
looks like I'm missing the cool trim down the centre of the screen and the funky wipers too.....
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markbognor
South East
Posts: 9,968
Club RR Member Number: 56
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Dec 15, 2009 22:41:55 GMT
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I started with a google image search of "Staff Car", because I remembered that you found olive green paint. That didn't work so I tried "1935 Sedan" onwards, till I found a 37 hudson, but the side moulding was wrong as was the dash. I was looking at the screen shape and rake in all the pics that came up from the search and looking closer at anything that seemed simmilar, flicking back and fourth between your posts and the search results. I went backwards but they are suiside doored, so tried a year forward and bingo. It actually didn't take as long as it might have, I probably didn't get more than five pages in on easch search result.
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Dec 15, 2009 23:04:22 GMT
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Where did you find that body Dez? Where do these things lie? Nice find.
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