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Dec 15, 2009 23:51:12 GMT
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There's some really useful stuff here even if you're not building a hot rod. As someone who is currently building up a tool kit so I can work on my BMW and doesn;t really know right from wrong it's really useful. Infact on your recommendation I bought a makita angle grinder this afternoon to replace the bloody awful £10 one a mate gave me earlier in the year.
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Dec 16, 2009 14:36:38 GMT
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Grille & Bonnet. Ford E83W?
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1953 Minor (Long term project) PT Cruiser
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Dec 16, 2009 16:53:36 GMT
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What a deadly thread. What's significantly different to this project that you can do it whilst doing the model a? Is it simply because you're starting with a chassis?
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 16, 2009 17:14:26 GMT
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good work inspecteur bognor its more than I could have been bothered to do! bm348v8ng9eevibgidoeerntg44444(or whatever it is )- I had to chase this one a bit. I saw it for sale couple of years ago by a guy I know, but never bought it at the time for various reasons. when I started planning this a few months ago I contacted him about it on the offchance he still had it, he didnt but he said the guy he'd sold it to still had it and had advertised it recently, so I found him on a forum, got his number off him, rang him up and went to see it cos it was only 40 mins away. suffice to say I left with it in the back of my caddy!! hotrod forums are a good place to start looking for osmething like this, or post a wanted, or the usual ebay. cort16, you finger will than you for it moggyman, spot on sir! i like it cos it looks rather like a '36 truck grille. mr derry, yeah thats basically it. ive already got a rolling chassis with motor and stuff fitted there. bar for brakes and some of the steering, its mostly just bodywork, and the majority of that is fabbing from scratch rahter than tricky repairs. theres jsut far less scope for things to do really. that and the fact this one wont be built to such an incredibly anal standard as the model A. itll be done right, but for example I wont spend 3 weeks making steering arms from scratch..........
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Last Edit: Dec 16, 2009 17:22:48 GMT by Dez
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Dec 16, 2009 18:10:59 GMT
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needabeetle, it will all be slimmed down and put onto one page at sometime in the future. as mentioned before, if its deemed good enough to go into the useful thread section it will happen then. a lot of what other people have written is as valid as what ive put though, its not just my bits you want to be reading!! Definitely useful thread archive IMO. Agreed on keeping the other content, but it'll be fantastic once it's slimmed down and on one page, with the rest of the feedback/comments still readable. Thanks for putting the effort in!
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The journey of 1000 miles starts with a single coffee.
I don't like coffee!
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 21, 2009 21:52:29 GMT
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well, i just spent some more cash! a few weeks back i 'made it known' amongst my contacts that i wanted a 2L zetec mondeo, of pre-95 variety. today, my mate dirty damo called in to see if i was about, with the news his mate has a 1993 2L zetec mondeo with a knackered gearbox (no 2nd or 4th), itll cost £200 so the guy can afford to buy another car, which in my opinion is top money for a knackered mondeo, but he will throw in a couple of sets of spare wheels and stuff to get the weigh-in weight up. i went to see it, checked the engine out and its sweet as they get, mostly cos damo replaced it 20k ago, and it was from a 55k car, and its had the cambelt, plugs, leads, etc. replaced when it was fitted. it gets dropped off tomorrow!
with the cat cut off and weighed in seperately, the alloys weighed in seperately, and the shell filled with whatever scrap is kicking round before going over the weighbridge, i cant see it standing me in at any more than £50, and it will almost double my fuel economy, with a power hike too!!
why did it need to be pre-95? well, after me starting the 'pinto alternative' thread on here a while back, mr. SOC informed me you need the management system from a pre-95 so it doesnt have the nasty immobiliser system that cant be bypassed, so it made sense to keep an eye out for an earlier car as a single donor, to keep the price down.
so it looks as though ile be spending some time over christmas gutting the engine bay of a mondeo before weighing it in!
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Dec 21, 2009 22:27:49 GMT
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I think it looks 100% meaner without the window centre trim. If I was doing it i'd fill any trim holes, smooth it and paint it body coloured
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Your car is not 'epic', this thread is not 'epic'....the OCEAN is epic, the UNIVERSE is epic.... please stop misusing this word!! It would appear Hotrods are the new VWs - aint fashion funny! '69 BUICK LESABRE 350
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will
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,023
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Dec 22, 2009 11:18:43 GMT
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I think this thread is bringing the distant dream of hotrod ownership closer everytime I read an update Top stuff dez, bookmarked of course.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 31, 2009 12:55:38 GMT
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another little update. heres the beast I bought- two hundred pounds of your finest chav-spec slightly broken mondeo (limited edition stickers on the sills, limo tint windows, terribel stereo 'install', flaking laquer on the spoiler, cougar wheels, and various bits self tappered and ziptied back on ) but, the engine is now out- and looks to be a really clean and tidy little motor, with no leaks or any other problems, and as mentioned it has new leads, plugs, filters, and cambelt- turns out it was done 6k ago, not 20K as previously thought, so thats saved a few quid! plus its got a decent clutch, so there doesnt appear to be any spending needed on the engine- a good buy it seems! I was suprised at the amount of 'additional curse word' they have on them, but by the time id removed the air-con and PAS pumps and all the brackets and tensioners it was only half as wide, and when ive binned the warm air preheat thingies off the exhaust and made a 4 branch, that side of the motor should be cleaned up nicely, only the horrendously huge plastic inlet fannymould to try to clean up a bit then!! I also think I will have to make some hardlines for the water system to compensate for the change of engine orientation, but thats nothing difficult. I will also need to make a new alternator bracket and tensioner system as that was incorporated into the PAS pump brackets. just gotta hawk out a load of the mundano bits on ebay and sell the pinto ive got, to cover the purchase cost now
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2011 19:59:56 GMT by Dez
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 31, 2009 12:59:10 GMT
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I think it looks 100% meaner without the window centre trim. If I was doing it i'd fill any trim holes, smooth it and paint it body coloured i agree johnny. seeing as i havent got it, i think thats exactly what i will do.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 31, 2009 13:03:55 GMT
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on another note, i visited a friend who owed me a favour or two the other day, who is into landrovers. from him i managed to procure a series 3 fuel tank, and a series 2A radiator- which i think is just narrow enough to fit in between the bonnet sides, if its set back a couple of inches from the grille shell. it used to cool a 2.25L petrol motor in the landy, so should be plenty man enough to cool the zetec. landy fuel tanks are decent as they're quite 'square', have simple end mounts, will usually fit down between a propshaft and the chassis rail, and have the (electric) sender, pickup, return and filler all on the topside- perfect for this kind of build really.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Dec 31, 2009 14:09:01 GMT
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May I just say this is an awesome thread The good thing about landy rads is that you can get uprated ones if need be for a reasonable price. I've got a four core rad in my series landy v8 and that has no issues with cooling the bigger v8 On one of the landy's I've got, I seperated the fuel tank from the base carrier plate thing ( I think it was leaded together), then modified the base to mount flat in the bed in the back, just need to make some stainless straps to go over the top to hold it in place now.
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Nice work there, Dez - good thread.
I'm not sure I'll be building a rod at any stage, but it's a useful insight into how to do modifications etc., on a budget.
James
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tri
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,572
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One word: AWESOME.
*bookmarked*
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I forgot how to retro...
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,993
Club RR Member Number: 35
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Have you got any further with this Dez?
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nugget
Part of things
Posts: 840
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Apr 29, 2010 23:35:30 GMT
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Holy thread revival Batman! How's this project coming along?
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Is that dales old body???
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Remember the days when sex was safe and motorsport was dangerous. Vintage bling always attracts pussy.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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remember this? i have!!! theres big things happening on this this week, and some things have already happened. ch, yeah it is. well he owned it for a wile anyway. its mine now, and i think pretty soon it wont simply be known as 'dales old hudson cowl' anymore update to come once ive uploaded some pics and wrote something to annotate them.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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so, onto the updates. theyll cover a few things, things ive done to the stuff ive already got, buying more bits, roadtrips to collect them, and more general building advice. first update, relates to the stuff ive already got. before I can get anywhere with the bodywork on this thing, I need to asses the metalwork ive got, get it sat on the chassis, with the doors hung, and any fundemental rust repaired. so, the doors. or more specifically, their butchered hinges. I'm not that bothered about the condition of the bottoms yet, theres bigger fish to fry! now, sometime in the past, someone (who I'm not very pleased with tbh, but I don't know who it was) has removed the doors from the cowl section. but as they are rivetted with big old hot-rivets to both door and A-pillar, they decided the best way to do this was unceremoniously hack straight through them with a grinder, badly, on the curse word, and as close as they could to the bodywork. it had been done with a thick disc too, all of which left the little matter of re-attaching quite difficult. sorting out door hinges can always be a bit of a ballache, but its one of those jobs that is done right really makes all the difference to your ride. first, I had to get the 'barrels' of the hinges off the doors. these are they- notice they actually have a provision for lubing them, in the way of a small hole drilled to introduce oil to the pin. at first I did think about fabbing up some replacements, but although they're corroded, the bits that are corroded don't actually matter as they wont effect how the hinge works, so I decided just to refurb them and stick them back together. but, as they were sized solid and the pins were sh@gged, the best option was always going to be the oxy torch. so, with everything warmed up cherry red I used a long thin drift to knock the old pins out, which let the barrel part of the hinge drop out, and after torching and wire brushing up both parts of the hinge to get them clean, and a lick of file down the inside, conveniently left holes in both parts of the hinge that were a fraction under 8mm. why is that convenient? well, it means I can use a few of long stainless allen capscrews of the m8 variety, as new (removable) door pins. cheap, easy, hard enough to not wear out, and practical as the doors will now be removable without any hassle. all I had to do was enlarge the holes in the hinges slightly with a drill- but, todays really useful piece of info to take with you is thus. if you have a door with two hinges(or even three), the hinge pins will always be perfectly in line with each other, otherwise the door cant open. that means, that even if your hinges are buggered like these, you can re-allign them with a very simple jig, so theyll work perfectly again. this is all you need- a piece of all-thread. so called, cos that what is is, its all thread, nowt else! in this case, 8mm to suit the new pins. usually I hate this stuff, and deride the use of it on cars as its generally a right bodgers tool, but for making a simple jig like this, its great. all I needed are the all thread and 4 nuts, and it holds the two hinge barrels in the right place for me to reatttach them to the bits of hinge on the car. basically you set it up so the nuts sit were the door part of the hinge sits. all set up- and offered uo to the car in the correct place- you can see ive marked the bodywork to be trimmed slightly so I can get in to do a good weld, and grind up the hinges a bit ready for weld. I made sure they were on there vertical to each other(so the door doesnt swing itself open or closed) and aligned front to back ok too. done- so with them all welded on, you unscrew the nuts off(takes a while, you can just cut the all thread up but I needed it to do the other side), then slot your door on and drop some new pins in, and if youve got everything alligned right, your door gaps are perfect!! and thats the passenger side done. the drivers side has some rust in the bottom of the A-pillar that need to be addressed first though(the lower hinge section is actually totally broken off, but luckily I have it) but ive done as much as I can on it, I.e. freed off the hinge and repinned it, ready to go once the rust is sorted.
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2011 20:02:13 GMT by Dez
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Aug 11, 2010 21:50:52 GMT
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so, today involved a very important roadtrip. id finished paying for the donor car, after various calamities and delays, so it was off to collect it! we(i roped in my mate dirty damo to assist as he actually had a trailer and something to tow it with) were going to holbeach in lincs, from colchester. I actually bought the car(not sure if theres enough here to consitute a car? maybe I should just call it a chassis?!) off a guy on the isle of skye! but luckily his son lived in holbeach and he bought it down to him when he visited. he charged me £100 to do this, and looking at how far it is and what a trip it would be, I was only happy to pay so I didnt have to do it! obviously if youre doing a towing trip like this thats about 2.5hrs each way you need a good rig. enter dirty damos transit. possibly the most traveller transit around these parts, 94 vintage resplendent with its OSB rear windows, a furked propshaft centre bearing, and more rattles than a nursery. good job its got a decent stereo! couple that up to a 'car trailer' made from an old caravan chassis with a lot of scrap steel welded onto it, and youre good to go. pro, you know? 2 and a bit hours of turning the stereo up a notch to drown out the prop bearing and we were doing some of this- then after some creative strapping down after discovering we only had 2 straps with us (and we needed one to hold the ramps down) we chucked this lot in the back of the van- then spent another 2.5 hours listening to the prop bearing again. so, back at the den, its time to assess the haul. lots of interesting bits in boxes, and some cool seats- and more importantly, this- so, what is it? well, I know one or two people on here will have known instantly basically, its the rolling chassis and butchered bodyshell of a 1946 rover p2. the chassis is totally rustfree and original, as is all the suspension, leaves, shocks etc. that front beam is too, but the spindles and brakes are sherpa(bolt on fitment!) as is the rear axle. that came with a choice of diffs. pretty much everything running gear wise not fitted is in the boxes- brake bits, etc. but no engine and box. it has previously had a pinto and mt75 fitted though. the body is pretty sh@gged, but to be honest I had no interest in that anyway. and why did I choose this as the basis for my rod? well, a number of reasons. the biggest one being the v5, in that is has one that 100% correct for the car. and I will be able to keep that v5, as bar for drilling a few holes for brackets and stuff, I don't need to modify the chassis at all. the chassis is nice and long too, 115" wheelbase, which is perfect for the pickup I'm building, and the proportions of the cowl section I'm using. plus, the rather cool underslung rear chassis is very useful in allowing me to have it nice and low but the pickup bed still be usable- no pesky chassis rails getting in the way! have a few more pics- obviously we couldnt leave it sitting like that knowing that body was going, so a bit of messing about and mocking up whilst having a brew lead to this- suffice to say, I'm excited about this now
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2011 20:04:38 GMT by Dez
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