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Apr 28, 2012 16:49:13 GMT
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i've had to do some mods to the front suspension. where it had had the front springs cut and also now has a slightly heavier engine up front (cast iron head) well the suspensions bottoms out on anything but flat smooth roads and no corners. and thats steel on steel no bumpstops :shock: not the best. well, as i couldn't weld back on the bits that had been cut off the springs, or find uncut ones i've had to fix it another way. i've brought some spring assister rubbers. these are ment for fitting to the rear springs of cars that tow or carry heavy loads and are sagging. they go inbetween the coils and stop them from compressing, in doing so they will raise and uprate the suspension. so thats what i've fitted to the front. they've made a big difference, still need to sort out bump stops though, i'll have a hunt for some universial ones. and the big update i've started this is gonna be a long, hard job. all the black and the purple underneath needs to come off. it's already flaking off in parts and covered in crazings. trouble with it is the paints so curse word it's clogging up the sanding discs quickly. even tried out using water to stop the clogging. and i'm using 80 grit and 40 grit :shock: i've been stripping the car down quite far. all door rubbers, door trim, handles and chrome are off. bumpers, lights, badges, everything that i can get off is coming off. i'm a bit stuck on the chrome on the door glass surounds. i can't figure out how they come off?
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Apr 28, 2012 16:52:39 GMT
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Would it be easier to blast it one piece at a time?
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Apr 28, 2012 16:57:17 GMT
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Would it be easier to blast it one piece at a time? i have access to a couple of blasters but the metal on these isn't as thick as you'd think. thats why the're fairly lightweight for there size. so i'd risk warping the panels quite badly. also there's not many panels that can be removed. i'm open to suggestions though! my painter/prepper is not very happy with me
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Apr 28, 2012 17:08:38 GMT
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Apr 28, 2012 18:43:59 GMT
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yep. got a couple of them in the front springs now.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,784
Club RR Member Number: 34
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1978 Datsun 280C Cedric Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Apr 28, 2012 18:47:32 GMT
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you need some of them scotch wheels for the grinder. theyll rip the paint off easy, don't clog too badly, and wont touch the steel underneath (or get it hot either). iirc they're quite pricey, but worth it.
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Apr 28, 2012 19:22:42 GMT
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This is developing nicely mate! Cracking pace of work too! you need some of them scotch wheels for the grinder. theyll rip the paint off easy, don't clog too badly, and wont touch the steel underneath (or get it hot either). iirc they're quite pricey, but worth it. Agree with Dez on this - those poly discs are worth their weight in gold when it comes to shifting curse word paint. They almost make prep enjoyable..... Joe
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Apr 28, 2012 19:37:40 GMT
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yeh got some of em. this paint even clogs them! yes. really. i didn't think anything could clog them. it sort of melts into the scotch tried thinners but the paints to thick for that. just sort of makes a black greasey mess. might end up using paint stripper on the larger areas and then sanding down the last bit. but i REALLY don't like that stuff.
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Apr 28, 2012 21:23:53 GMT
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Has it been done with household paint in the past as i've seen that clogging effect before when trying to shift it. Don't think thinners will shift anything really but, have used gallons of Nitromors (spelt wrong) over the years but always always wear gloves its doesn't do you hands any favours at all and you can eventually end up with a reaction just to the smell of it.....Try a test piece first as it seems to strip some paints better than others despite what it says on the tins it never seemed to shift more than 1 or 2 coats at once no matter how long you left it for. A bit drastic but what about one of the knot wheels on the grinder to shift the really nasty stuff
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,536
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Apr 28, 2012 21:51:25 GMT
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well, as I couldn't weld back on the bits that had been cut off the springs, or find uncut ones How about getting some new ones made? Could be made to your choice of rate and length then. This was the place I used last. www.alphasprings.co.uk/car-springs.html
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Snoozin
Posted a lot
Toyophile
Posts: 1,557
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For springs, look to Australia to get ones to suit HQ Holdens. I used these in my 230 shape Cedric to great success.
King springs, and Dobinsons would be 2 companies worth investigating, and they come in a variety of sizes and spring rates. Cheap too.
Otherwise I have some spare uncut stock springs here, but I'm in NZ...
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because the front suspension is double wishbone it's a little tricky to work out spring rate and length. i have a proper nissan manual which states rates and lengths but as i'd like to stiffen it a fair bit i'd have to work out the leverage ratio etc. and then prob just make a guess on that. when i get a little bit more time i'll have a go. for now i'm all about the paint i think the paint was celly, thou it could be anything really. i'm gonna give the paint stripper a go today. if i can shift the bulk of the black then it should make the job a lot easier.
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Apr 29, 2012 16:00:45 GMT
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ok grabbed a few hours at work today with the paint stripper. much easier going then the sanding discs and less risk of damage to the panels from heat build up or pressing to hard and warping them. i'll still have to sand off the last bits but this is going to be much easier now. the original nissan paint is very thin. that, plus the thinness of the steel means it's unsurprizing that these old japanese cars didn't last that well in this country....
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orangecords
Part of things
yawner extraordinaire
Posts: 892
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Apr 29, 2012 18:32:38 GMT
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i dunno if i could carry on from this point if it was me....it'd be too tempting to clear lacquer it and roll it like this ;D
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I then wanted to start cleaning the interior as it stinks of wood (the material not the smell of a boner) best quote ever!
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Apr 29, 2012 19:12:52 GMT
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I'm surprised no one mentioned using a wire cup brush or wire wheel on it. Munched straight through the paint and cracked filler on the flanks of my Dolly.
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Apr 29, 2012 19:53:15 GMT
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If you can lock the DA sander so it just spins without "wiggling" you'll smash paint off in no time without clogging disks. I'm told some have a hole that you can put a pin in, but the ones I used didn't so I just whacked a jubilee clip round.
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Apr 29, 2012 20:47:00 GMT
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I'm surprised no one mentioned using a wire cup brush or wire wheel on it. Munched straight through the paint and cracked filler on the flanks of my Dolly. i've used them but find they really rip the metal to bits. the scotch discs are normally really good and what i'd use. but this paint is a little strange.
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Apr 29, 2012 20:48:44 GMT
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If you can lock the DA sander so it just spins without "wiggling" you'll smash paint off in no time without clogging disks. I'm told some have a hole that you can put a pin in, but the ones I used didn't so I just whacked a jubilee clip round. interesting. i'll look into that. don't wanna break the works only DA thou mind you, we do have a slightly broken lecy one i could modify.....
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Last Edit: Apr 29, 2012 20:49:37 GMT by Al Ramone
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I'm surprised no one mentioned using a wire cup brush or wire wheel on it. Munched straight through the paint and cracked filler on the flanks of my Dolly. i've used them but find they really rip the metal to bits. the scotch discs are normally really good and what i'd use. but this paint is a little strange. I find that very surprising, when doing anything paint/welding related on mine, the wire brush is the first thing I pick up. The only bits it makes a mess of usually, is the bits that were already resembling a colander.
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MattW
Part of things
Posts: 841
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this reminds me of the old johnny somerset car. unless thats johnny under a new name.
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