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Oooh, I'd love to change my leather interior to a nice dark brown from the current rather boring grey - how colourfast is that stuff? Or will I get out after a long journey looking like I've had a bit of an accident?!
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Well, I only finished the dying just before the easter holiday and it has survived so far un marked, but its not like head rests get a lot of wear and tear. I would do it again though as it was quite painless.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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I'd add, make sure you get the bits very clean, the paint will peel if not! Best to use a de-greaser.
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have a look on furnitureclinic.co.uk , they do alsorts of stuff for cars and it works well if you follow the prep instructions
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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The only stuff I've actually used was the Vinylkote branded stuff back in the day. They recommended you used their cleaner, prep spray and all, which we did, and the results were perfect. Having seen the results of other interior "painting" I was astounded.
with any of these things I think the key is prep prep prep
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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trimtechniques
Part of things
Porsche 928 4.7 ltrs of German grunt. Mazda MX-5 MK1 Dakar. VW T4 camper
Posts: 158
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I do this sort of stuff day in and day out for a living. All the products so far mentioned will probably give you a good result on your dash and door cards. So long as you prep properly first. I would use panel wipe or similar to ensure all grease & silicon (Mr Sheen) that has been used on the surface before is removed. You should not have any problems using panel wipe on plastic, but test in a small out of the way area first. To do the job professionally you would strictly speaking then coat with an adhesion promoter and then spray. Using several thin coats and allowing to dry between coats. Hope this is of help
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I'm glad this has been asked as I want to change my lux interior to beige/tan/browny colour, was looking at this stuff on ebay as well.
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p1RATE
Part of things
Posts: 355
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Interesting, I have been wanting a red leather interior for a while, i might give this a go at some point
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• 13 BMW 320d
• 92 Pink/Purple Mercedes 190e (Project)
• 97 Rover VI 1.8 (track car)
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I won't bother with spray painting the seats, My Cortina rear seat has been painted from blue to cream and it's awful, As it's a vinyl paint it stays sticky all the time meaning all the dirt and hair and clothes fabrics stick to it making it look really messy and mine had started to flake of in places too.
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Last Edit: May 3, 2012 12:58:39 GMT by g40jon
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aye, there is an important distinction between dyes and paints.
I've been recommended to try some 2K ink product, which apparently works really well on car trim, but I've not tried it so...
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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also be very aware many of the "dyes" are just paints that sit on the surface , any modern leather is coated so nothing will sink in like a dye
more saddles and belts n stuff that accept true dyes
stick with a known brand thats reccomended for what you are doing and follow the instructions and should work out nice
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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