adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Paint adviceadam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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Hi everyone, basically the issue ive got is that the paint on my MGB (especially the roof as pictured) is rather shagged at some point i would like to get a full respray, but being a student my funds don't really stretch to that at the moment now i don't mind having some slightly scabby paint but theres a bit of rust (hopefully cosmetic) starting to show through here and there and i don't want to leave it so long that i get a nice hole in the roof! so ive got some wet and dry paper and some green hammerite kicking about and I'm thinking of doing a bit of a student quick fix.. but before i do, i thought id ask on here to see what people who know what they're doing would do et le pics on the last photo, it would appear a previous owner has tried to temp. fix the paint themselves cheers adam
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Hi, if at somtime in the future you intend to get your car sprayed the best thing to do is try and prevent any futher corrosion. Rub down the affected area to remove any loose paint and rust. Then paint the area with a couple of coats of your hamerite. Keep an eye on the areas you paint as any sighns of further rust will need to be treated. Keeping the area sealed from water and air will preserve the metal till the time you can get your car sprayed. It wont look pretty but at least you will still have good metal when it comes to spraying your car.
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Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but as a pinter with over 25yrs experience you need to take the roof down to bare metal as it has crazed very badly,Now I fully realise you are a student and no dosh so to speak BUT all is NOT lost.Beg steal(NO don't DO THAT)Borrow a flat sander...YES I do KNOW it is not ideal but it will get you out of the mire so to speak,Rub the whole roof down with 80 Grit paper.Go down to your nearest Motor panit factor and buy yourself a 1 ltr tin of primer filler and activator approx price £25,You will need to mix the primer in a ratio of 4 paint to 1 activator and apply with a radiator roller give it 3 or 4 coats allowing around 5 mins between coats,allow to dry approx 12 hrs, you will notice that NO mention of anything smoother than 80 grit paper has been mentioned so far.JUST do it GO for it,the primer filler will cover the scratch marks of the rough paper,now giev the roof a dust coat of satin black and after 5 mins rub this down with 180 grit wet and dry NOT wet but DRY ....wear a mask....reaply primer if necc if you have rubbed through....Now apply the hammerite with a small radiator roller ad whilst it is drying go for a pint ...YOU will deserve it.....Now the above prop can be used on any car whatsoever BUT if top coating then you will need to use 500 grit paper dry and the results will be dammed good......I do it on a daily basis trust me it will turn out right
Dave
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I have to agree with Dave I'm afraid.... If you don't take the roof to bare metal, you will find that the paint damage will spread around the area you do a temp repair on. The method Dave has suggested will give a good base for a future respray while preventing any further damage occurring. Just my opinion, based on 30 years experience as a car body repairer.....
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'96 Volvo 850T5 x2, '97 Alfa 145 Cloverleaf '96 Alfa 155, '91 XR2i 2.0 Zetec (sold), '88 BMW 520i slug (sold), '81 Escort Mk3 Project, '68 Mk1 Escort Estate, Berlingo Parts Chaser.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Paint adviceadam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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ah thanks for the advice there guys, especially the guide as to what to do but the cheapy student in me still has to ask, what if i sanded back only the rusty areas to bare metal and painted those with a couple of coats of hammerite for now? like could i do that to stop the rust at least and then it would be a case of sanding the whole thing back to bare metal whenever i get a full respray done? also will there be damage happening to the metal underneath the crazed paint? I'm not meaning to cause any offence by me carrying on asking about a quick fix, i just want to get a better idea of whats going on with the paint really (I'm pretty much resigned to having to do some pretty extensive work on the paint anyway, especially as the paint has gone bad on the front wings and other areas too) thanks again
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If you look at where the rust has broken thru, you can see that the paint was crazed before the rust came thru. I would say there is damage occuring under the crazing, and it won't take long to burst thru as it has elsewhere on the roof. It doesn't look like there is gonna be any holes yet, just surface rust. However, if you don't do a reasonable repair now, when you get around to doing the bodywork properly, you will likely find the damage is far more severe, and more complex/expensive to repair.
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'96 Volvo 850T5 x2, '97 Alfa 145 Cloverleaf '96 Alfa 155, '91 XR2i 2.0 Zetec (sold), '88 BMW 520i slug (sold), '81 Escort Mk3 Project, '68 Mk1 Escort Estate, Berlingo Parts Chaser.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Paint adviceadam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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aye i thought that might be the case thats fair enough, well i shall just have to wait for a bit of good weather and crack the electric sander out after buying some primer first of course..
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Good luck with it mate. If you follow the procedure Dave gave you, I reckon you won't have any problems. Let us know how you get on, or if you need any more help.
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'96 Volvo 850T5 x2, '97 Alfa 145 Cloverleaf '96 Alfa 155, '91 XR2i 2.0 Zetec (sold), '88 BMW 520i slug (sold), '81 Escort Mk3 Project, '68 Mk1 Escort Estate, Berlingo Parts Chaser.
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yeah, as above. Painting on crazed paint is just a waste of paint,
Also Hammerite is rubbish for cars.
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,993
Club RR Member Number: 35
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Paint advicecraig1010cc
@craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member 35
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I would go for Rustoleum as the top coat (they can even mix it to your paint code so you get a good match) or i've seen some good results with Dulux liquid gloss (it is a metal paint, not what you paint your living room with )
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Paint adviceadam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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oh right, in what sense is the hammerite rubbish? cos i don't mind if its not a particularly great finish as I'm only wanting it to be a temporary solution until i get the whole car painted (its currently about 4 or 5 shades of green already )
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I find it does not "cure" the rust, it cracks or lifts, and you have to be careful to remove all traces of if when you re-repaint the panel as it reacts with any other kind of paint it comes in contact with if you don't.
Fine for gates, drain pipes, tool boxes, etc. But I don't like to use it on cars any more as I've had bother with it in the past.
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Paint adviceadam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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ah right, hmm i may look into one of the other options then in that case, as long as i can get some at a decent price aha on closer inspection it would appear the tin of hammerite i have in the garage is hammered finish, would look interesting...
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If you end up using aerosols to cover it up.. Graffiti paint seems to generally better quality and better priced than automotive stuff. I really like the Montana Black range though the ethics of the company's origins are apparently a bit shaky. It doesn't hugely bother me as the two companies seem to coexist well enough now and the past doesn't appear to have had a detrimental effect on either.. I've ordered from here before and been very happy.
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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Good advice above but my fear with that is the rust is coming from the inside out so to fully cure it would need the roof lining taking off and the rust treated/welded from the inside. I'm sure the above will look fine for a few years to come yet!!!
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,842
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Paint advicestealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Buy a cheapo angle grinder from tescos or similar and a knot wheel, knock the whole lot back to bare metal. Take grinder back to tescos as it'll be broken, then use the money to buy the paint mentioned above. Might be better wacking a tin of gloss black over it for now will mean you just have to flat it off when it gets painted properly.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Paint adviceadam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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aye it doesnt seem too difficult to take the headlining out so i could do that if i was feeling up to it..
is spray can filler primer just as good as the 2 pack stuff? cos ive not been able to find any tins for sale that are less than 5 litres but there seems to be plenty of spray cans about which are supposedly filler primer..
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I wouldn't use the aerosol stuff to be honest, it's only single pack and won't cover the sanding marks really. You need to go to an automotive paint supplier for the 2 pack stuff. A quick search has turned up Bee Bee Supplies in Ipswich, 14 Boss Hall Road, IP1 5BN. Tel 01473 241510. They will supply primer in 1 litre kits.
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'96 Volvo 850T5 x2, '97 Alfa 145 Cloverleaf '96 Alfa 155, '91 XR2i 2.0 Zetec (sold), '88 BMW 520i slug (sold), '81 Escort Mk3 Project, '68 Mk1 Escort Estate, Berlingo Parts Chaser.
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,993
Club RR Member Number: 35
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Paint advicecraig1010cc
@craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member 35
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Spray can primer (even filler primer) wont build up the thickness enough. The last time I brought some 2pk primer I was told that the difference between the 2 was down to how much you thinned it? Anyway, if you are going to apply with a roller, any primer will be fine as it goes on a lot thicker and if your woried, add an extra coat
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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that rust looks almost certainly to be caused by the paint cracking. wouldnt bother ripping the headliner off untill you have sanded the crazed paint off and found out if the rust is just surface rust. I'm gonna go against what others have said here and suggest you don't go anywhere near 2k paints, I would also suggest you read up on spray painting safety www.mig-welding.co.uk/paint-safety.htmIf I were in your situation, I would sand the crazed paint off, treat the rust, roller it with a suitable primer, flat back till level, repaint coat of primer till a good level is built up, then do the same but with some gloss black brush paint/rustoleum. It will easilly be the most cost effective solution for someone with no spray painting experience and not much in the way of cash. a user on here called volksangyl would be a good person to talk to, as they have been doing a budget repaint using a similar method
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Last Edit: Aug 8, 2012 11:52:18 GMT by g40jon
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