75nut
Part of things
Posts: 512
|
|
Aug 22, 2012 12:28:12 GMT
|
Can I get some guidance on polishing the rim of my Saab alloy.  I don't want to damage the paint on the rest of the wheel, refueb and mirror polish the edge. Whats the best way to strip the old laquer and then polish the rim and what tools and pastes etc is recommended? I have compounds for paint like G10 and G8 and T-Cut etc and I have a dremmel and its atachements etc. Cheers  |
| |
90 Alfa 75 3.0 V6 Cloverleaf
79 MGB Roadster
88 Saab 900i Convertible
94 MK1 MX5 1.6
05 Volvo V70
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2012 12:44:24 GMT
|
|
Careful masking of the painted bits, then use a gentle abrasive disc in an angle grinder followed by sisal wheels and polishing soap.
The other alternative is to jack the car up and use emery paper then autosol.
I'm terminally lazy so id use the first option!
|
| |
Koos
|
|
rodney
Posted a lot
https://www.facebook.com/RD-vehicle-transport-and-recovery-services-525622614268010/
Posts: 1,677
|
|
|
|
|
remove paint , coarse wet and dry paper , then go fine , then go g3 compound or metal polish,.
|
| |
facebook: rodney dean / rd transport  |
|
75nut
Part of things
Posts: 512
|
|
Aug 24, 2012 12:30:14 GMT
|
|
Lol! Thats a brave way of doing it!!
|
| |
90 Alfa 75 3.0 V6 Cloverleaf
79 MGB Roadster
88 Saab 900i Convertible
94 MK1 MX5 1.6
05 Volvo V70
|
|
MattE
Part of things
Posts: 214
|
|
|
|
|
Start by rubbing down the rim with 120g wet and dry, then 240g then 360g then 600g if your still up for it after that move on to 800g. If your thinking of lacquering them then then use a fine grade scotch bright all over to key the paint and polish with t-cut and a good wax after lacquering . If you want a realy shiny rim follow on with 1200g after the 800g and polish the rim with autosol but you will have to do this every month or so to keep the shine i wouldnt recommend lacquering after polishing with autosol as the lacquer needs at least an 800g key to stick yo the rim.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2012 21:35:39 GMT
|
you're all wrong the answer is...  Jack up one wheel, handbrake on, all other wheels chocked. Start the engine, into 5th gear, sandpaper working through the grades until you get to the level of finish you require. The tyre has to come off and the valve has to come out but compared to buying loads of expensive chemicals removal and refitting of tyres isn't unrealistic. Even better if you were changing the tyres anyway. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2012 21:37:54 GMT
|
remove paint , coarse wet and dry paper , then go fine , then go g3 compound or metal polish,. Sorry, my apologies... only just clicked on your YouTube - it is the best way. |
| |
|
|
MattE
Part of things
Posts: 214
|
|
|
|
|
Fingers? or do you get used to typing with stumps.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2012 19:07:56 GMT
|
|
Well I wondered if it was dangerous when I started doing it but until you've tried you wouldn't know. I started off in low gears but realised pretty early on that even in 5th gear it was easy to cope. If your fingers hit the spokes you feel it but not at all painful and no danger. Of course if you timed it right and you tried to poke your finger in the hole as it hit the brake caliper then that could be nasty.
Other designs of wheel wouldn't work as well using this method, but for doing the rim on these Saab wheels the only better tool would be a proper wheel lathe.
|
| |
|
|
