Creaking clutch!!

[datsundrew]

I have an odd creaking clutch situation that is really doing my head in
When it is cold, the clutch is fine but as it warms up and / or gets used it starts to creak, and it feels rough, as if it has a cable that's about to break. In traffic it becomes difficult to drive smoothly as the pedal jumps up in notches, rather than smoothly.
The vehicle is my s 2 land rover, (mercedes land rover) it's got a new clutch and arm and I used a little copper slip on the splines and fork pivot. It also has a new master and slave cylinder. Now the totally weird thing is that once it's up to full creak capacity, if I tun the engine off, it's smooth again. Start up, creak.
What is going on? I have run out of ideas now.

[rockhouse]

old clutch cable?
adjusted to tight
broken finger on pressure plate?
how much play on cable

[rockhouse]

just reread slave cylinder oops
sorry senior moment

[datsundrew]

The clutch was out 2 weeks ago, and all was well and looking like new. I just can't understand what the difference between the engine running and not, apart from something that changes with centrifugal force....

[rockhouse]

damaged 1st motion shaft?
was it happening on old clutch

[rockhouse]

bush on clutch pedal worn

[datsundrew]

I was wondering about input shaft, but why only when running and hot, it's great hot with engine off, and cold engine on! The creak definitely comes from the bell housing area and not the pedal.

[composimmonite]

Apr 20, 2013 10:34:19 GMT rockhouse said:

bush on clutch pedal worn

I had this happen to my SIIA so is my guess as well.

Paul h

[rockhouse]

does the clutch plate move freely over splines
does mean gearbox out though, could be bearing
on first motion shaft or bent shaft itself
don't know what else it can be. either way i think its gearbox out
or the easy way sell it only joking
i had a creaky clutch on a sierra turned out to be the quadrant on top of pedal
no help to you as that was cable clutch

[sowen]

Apart from the pedal pivot bush (one seized up on me, every clutch change required the pedal lifting up again!), is the gearbox perfectly aligned with the engine, and is the depth of the clutch to gearbox identical to standard specs?

[datsundrew]

There are a few unknowns.....I made the adaptor plate myself, so it's a possible alignment problem.....that'll be fun to fix then. I recently changed the master and slave, there is a lot of play in the pivot on the pedal, so that's not seized, but it is possible. If it is an issue with the input shaft alignment, there is no sign of any clutch judder. Will try oiling some pivots later!

[composimmonite]

Apr 23, 2013 0:06:39 GMT datsundrew said:

there is a lot of play in the pivot on the pedal,

I had several brand new master cylinders fail on my old SIIa - one leaving me stranded in middle of France
I contacted Lockheed Girling and they said important that no wear in the pedal pivot. What happens, with a Land Rover, is the pivot bush wears oval. That means when pushing the pedal down it moves within this oval. Part way during the push rod into the master cylinder pushing the piston the forces change due to the oval pivot and cause the piston to then very slighty shift to one side. Over time this shift in the piston causes metal on metal (instead of seal on metal) wear until it reaches the point that seal can no longer do it's job and leaks then complete failure occurs. The chaps at Lockheed Girling told me it was a common problem yet everybody assumes it's their product that is faulty. I changed the pedal bushes (cheap - just a few quid) and no further failures.
BTW if you can find a 90/110/ Defender clutch pedal than all the better as it has a spring for assistance meaning less effort needed to hold the pedal down such as in traffic.

Paul h

[datsundrew]

That's interesting.....I know it's oval, and yes, I've had 3 master cylinders in 11 years.