adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Apr 26, 2013 14:28:32 GMT
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Yeah its an electric fuel pump, usually the clicking sound indicates that theres fuel going into the float bowls but ill have a go at double checking this.
The coil connections weren't moved at all while changing the starter but when i took the king lead off just now to have a look, the metal contact was covered in a blue powder, not sure what this is? some sort of corrosion? changed it for my spare and it didnt change anything.. will check for a spark though
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Apr 26, 2013 15:06:20 GMT
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Yeah its an electric fuel pump, usually the clicking sound indicates that theres fuel going into the float bowls but ill have a go at double checking this. The coil connections weren't moved at all while changing the starter but when I took the king lead off just now to have a look, the metal contact was covered in a blue powder, not sure what this is? some sort of corrosion? changed it for my spare and it didnt change anything.. will check for a spark though Yeah the powder will be corrosion. If I were you I'd remove everything you can and give it a really good blast with electrical cleaner,get a bit of sandpaper or scotchpad on the terminals of everything and give it a good clean. Did you take the battery out or disconnect when doing the starter? Could have snapped a poxy terminal on the battery connections or the like. Clean off any copper grease or such like on the terminals as I've had this cause all sorts of issues in the past. Ignition systems rely on good connections so don't be afraid to give everything involved a good scotch off where possible as it will make the world of difference. Do you have a multimeter?
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Apr 26, 2013 15:52:55 GMT
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Aye gonna go out and clean up some of the connections, before I changed the starter I cleaned up, sanded up the connections on the starter relay. And i also cleaned up the connections on the starter motor.
I just disconnected the battery using a screw in disconnect switch thing, got plenty of power from battery.
Havent got a multimeter which does make testing things a bit trickier..
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Apr 26, 2013 17:24:00 GMT
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Well theres definitely fuel getting to the carbs. Had the spark plugs out and they're all a nice brown colour, HT leads are good, cleaned corrosion from king lead and ignition coil. The distributor cap looks like its seen better days though.. You can see from the pictures that bits are missing from the plastic on the underside of the cap, could I need a new cap and/or rotor? Thanks for the help again
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Apr 26, 2013 17:58:43 GMT
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Did you test for a spark? Battery fully charged?
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Apr 26, 2013 18:24:48 GMT
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Wasnt able to test for spark as I couldnt crank the engine and look at the spark plug at the same time lol, the battery is fully charged as its happily spinning the engine over easily But I think the fact that the engine is turning over with fuel but not making any attempt to fire would indicate thats theres no spark at all? I cant see how changing the starter would have caused this as i took the connections off the starter and put them back in the same place on the replacement one
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Last Edit: Apr 26, 2013 18:32:39 GMT by adam73bgt
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Apr 26, 2013 19:28:31 GMT
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Unless it's an optical illusion your problem is the carbon rod on the centre of the distributor cap. Should be longer and make spring loaded contact with the rotor arm. Doesn't look like it is.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Apr 26, 2013 19:56:29 GMT
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As above, it doesn't seem to be poking out at all? I'm sure I read about someone else having the same issue.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Apr 26, 2013 23:03:03 GMT
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Yeah it was pretty much flush, looks as though its worn away.. Ive ordered a new distributor cap anyway as it seemed past its best, so ill see how that goes
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Apr 26, 2013 23:11:56 GMT
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That distributor cap is absolutely done. Replace it and the rotor arm wiith good branded ones.
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Apr 27, 2013 10:29:53 GMT
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With the condition of the dizzy cap. Id also be checking the dizzy for play, As it seems to have some uneven wear over the contacts of the cap. Like the rotor is moving around side to side.. And as above. The centre contact isnt making contact with the rotor by the looks of it...
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Apr 29, 2013 12:22:00 GMT
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Well worth investing in a little multimeter from maplin and the like,say £20 which will give you all the functions you'll ever need. Avoid the really cheap indicator style ones as often they'll show there's voltage there as ok but it might only be 8volts instead of 12 etc. Did you check all your fuses afterwards as well? Could be something that simple although the dizzy cap does look shot.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Apr 29, 2013 12:44:12 GMT
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Aye, it'll be something else to add to the shopping list i think, all four fuses are fine, I'd gone through the fusebox cleaning contacts before i changed the starter motor ( i only took off one wire at a time so i didnt put anything back in the wrong place though ) dizzy cap is in the post so hopefully ill be back on the road soon
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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New dizzy cap fitted and still no spark :/ engine turns but no attempt to fire at all, I'm now thinking it could be the ignition coil or the electronic ignition system? gonna have a closer look tomorrow at all the wiring in the ignition circuit
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,869
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Its fixed and now works! ;D The problem was self inflicted in the end... When i tried to improve the 'earth' connection for the dizzy, i took the black wire that was hanging on by a couple of strands and connected it to an earth on the body.. I'd assumed this was the right place for it, but the black wire from the dizzy was actually meant to go to the negative terminal on the coil instead Put the wire back where it should be and she fired straight up Is running even better than before as well, not sure if this is due to the improved negative connection for the dizzy or the new dizzy cap (which really needed doing!) Either way, thanks for all the suggestions and advice guys
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