Paint advice needed.. (full respray)

[dazzag40]

Hello, haven't posted much on here, I'm more of a lurker.

Picked up a 91 Polo breadvan recently to mess about with. Its Tornado Red (ly3d iirc). Its very solid and has a full tax and test etc i just fancy tidying it up. I have done a bit of spraying at the college in the past but I'm a bit unsure as to what materials i will need (in terms of primer and clear coat/lacquer). I managed to get my hands on some 2k paint, activator and thinners cheap from another forum-
Jawel Paints 2k Acrylic Paint (2.5l)
OMI-CRON Fast activator (2l)
Octoral - UNI TA900 thinner (1l).

I also have the following equipment - 3.5hp compressor, airline and clarke spraygun (1.4mm nozzle fitted with air filter/water trap), DA sander, filler, discs and blocks etc...

I'm reasonably well clued up on the DOING, i just need to know what type of primer i need, and also what kind of top coat or lacquer/any hardeners or thinners etc i need...

I also plan on blowing over the bumpers and strips with some satin black as they have red overspray on them. What do i need to complete this?

Thanks very much for any help.

[cobblers]

Get Jawel paints on the phone (google them, they are good and pretty cheap, near birmingham).

You won't need a lacquer over the 2k paint unless it's metallic, in which case it'll be a 1k basecoat so I dunno why you have activator!

Get another 5l s of any old standard thinners for cleaning the gun and putting in the primer. It's not expensive and comes in so handy.

IIRC Jawel do a fairly decent high build 2k primer, which needs activator too, (but 4:1 ratio instead) plus a splash of thinners (5/10%)


Be careful with 2K paint - For hobby use most people are fine with it, but if you are sensitive it can be very very dangerous or fatal! You really should have an air fed mask and a full suit etc etc, but in reality you aren't going to, so at the very least paint some small bits and slowly introduce yourself to the stuff to make sure you aren't sensitive, rather than just jumping in and painting a full car in a garage with no ventilation!
It's potentially very bad stuff, but in practice most people get away OK.

[rodney]

if the paint is good you can often get away with flatting it down nice and painting over it ,

if going from red to another colour you may want to prime it up as red sometimes bleeds threw,

you can use cellulose primer to prime the repairs or even the whole car , flat it smooth then paint it , you will want plenty of standard thinners to mix up primer and clean guns etc ,

if your doing a base and clear you will obviously need base coat approx 1 to 1 and half liters depnding what your painting , and at least 3 liters of lacquer , mix lacquer 2 to 1 with hardener ,

if your doing straight solid colour then min 3 liters of paint with hardener , gloss built in so no lacquer needed,.

[dazzag40]

So what way will i mix the 2k dude? The ad for the paint said the following...

" the kit includes 2 litres of flash red acrylic jawel paint (paint code y3d), 2.5 litres of omi-cron fast dry hardener and 1 litre of octoral thinners as pictured, the ratio for the paint is 2 parts paint, 1 part hardener and 10% thinners"

[dazzag40]

ITs currently red and it's staying red...There will be some filler and a small bit of welding though so i would guess ill need a full coat of primer first?

[rodney]

celly kit...
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cellulose-Car-Paint-Full-Re-Spray-Kit-Inc-Spray-Gun-/390118097462?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item5ad4d9c236

2k kit solid colours.....
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-PAINT-FULL-PREP-REPAIR-RE-SPRAY-KIT-16-COLOURS-/290367053999?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item439b39a0af

base and clear 2k kit , metallics etc....
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-PAINT-BASECOAT-Full-Re-Spray-Car-Kit-Inc-Spray-Gun-/290325149449?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item4398ba3709

[rodney]

id just prime the repairs with high build primer ,

may need a bit more than 2 liters ,

2 parts paint , 1 part hardener , and 10% thinners if needed ,

[cobblers]

For 2k topcoat you'll do 2:1 paint:hardener, then usually a splash of thinners to taste, like they say maybe 10%. It's something you'll learn by "feel" more than anything. Getting the ratio of thinners right will help the paint come out of the gun right, and also settle on the panel right. Too little and it'll splatter out of the gun and look rough and dry on the panel, too much and it'll want to run. If you put 8-10% in you'll get by thought, usually.

You can get away without priming if you are painting over a very tidy panel, but if you have had to do any repairs, put a couple of coats of high build 2k primer over it before flatting off with 400, otherwise you might end up with a halo of the filler once the paint dries.

Personally on a DIY job I'd expect to prime the whole car and 400 grit flat it before topcoat, with a light misting of matt black (or a proper guide coat) over any repaired or suspect areas to show up low spots in the sanding - it'll highlight anything you've missed and allow you to sand out the minor stuff, plus it's a hell of a lot nicer to sand to a topcoat ready finish than normal paint. Doing this isn't really 100% necessary and most professionals won't (to save time) but it gives the rest of us another chance to pick out anything we've missed.

[dazzag40]

Brilliant information lads thanks very much. What about the plastic bumpers?

Acid etch plastic primer or what way would the satin black work?

[rodney]

you can buy plastic primer for the bumpers and similer , if the have over spray already , wipe em down with thinners , give em a good flat to remover shine and silicons , plastic prime then a good coat of normal primer then flat down smooth for paint,.