Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jul 21, 2013 20:08:27 GMT
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it keeping the horrendous oil burner at the mo. mostly cos v8s run on costly petrol, whereas this can run on pretty much anything remotely flammable.
cheers for that info nitemare, the handbrake isnt cranked, its flat almost on the floor, so i assume thats the early type. ive got various steering wheels kicking round i could cobble on there with a bosskit, ile have to see whats going on.
its by no means as tidy as yours, but it is in quite good nick panel wise really. ive found some damage on one front wing under the checkerplate i took off cos i hate the stuff, and it has the usual tailgate dent from people dropping it on the towbar, plus the front bumpers a bit mangled, but the rest is quite straight.
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Jul 22, 2013 23:48:45 GMT
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the bumper being mangled is a minor problem, good (correct) drop down tailgates are getting harder to find and most have the towball dink in them now, folks generally live with it until they get lucky straight wings, tub and bulkhead are the important bits, doors can be changed relatively cheaply and easily, good catflaps are nice to have but do definitely do the thumbscrews up if you travel with it open that 4.203 could have come out of numerous applications and without full research you won't know if it was a compressor/forklift/combine harvester or commercial road vehicle but if it runs nicely it'll pull all day long, 3.54 diffs might make it more usable on the road giving you full use of all four gears or you could possibly stretch to the cost of an overdrive (a mate has an 88" with 4.203 and overdrive that sits at a steady 50-55mph without any trouble), i'd be a little careful of what you attempt to feed it in the way of fuel, i doubt the injector pump will enjoy veg oil and will likely seize and there's every chance the seals will fail if you attempt to run it for any length of time on bio unless you have it rebuilt with suitable seals, it's not like dropping a 200 or 300tdi in and then chucking anything you like in the tank (mine has the 200tdi under the bonnet was 2.25 petrol) that photo of mine (courtesy of Simon Hipperson) was taken not too long after a 9 month long full stripdown and rebuild, it's not quite that tidy any more as it's my daily driver and workhorse and really could do with a proper wash and polish again if you're interested in furthering your knowledge of that 2a (i've no idea of how much you already know) i'd suggest registering on the Series 2 forum, i've learnt a fair bit in the 5 years i've been tinkering with landrovers but there's much more to learn if i want to get all rivet countery
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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well ive been working on it, fact-finding mostly, and stripping it down ready for the weldathon. I plan similar to you nitemare, a stripdown/fix up before putting it into work, but I'm leaving the bodywork tatty. 3.54 diffs are the plan for now as they're cheapest option, and money is tight at the mo. this is the pump, its one of the screw-type CAV ones. can anyone enlighten on what the numbers mean? and I assume the pull cable is a fuel shutoff rather than timing adjust? as theres no decompressor on the engine so no other way of stopping it. so, me and the missus hit this hard the other weekend, and in 4 hours we managed this- floors, tunnel, seat box, door tops, roof, tub and all associated bits removed. I know the rear crossmember was borked, and heres the proof- though surprisingly, it doesnt extend as far as the rear spring hangers, ans the only other issue under the tub is this- on top of the passenger side outrigger. the rest is all pretty good- the bulkhead needs the usual kickplates on both sides - only other issues under the back are on the kickup just forward of the front spring hanger, the bottom of it is rotted out on both sides, pretty much as usual, but thats a nice easy repair really- the other side needs similar work, but its not as bad. its had the front fuel tank outrigger replaced as usual, and as usual its not been fully welded- amazingly it doesnt have the usual massive gaping hole in the chassis rail behind the tank though-
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Last Edit: Aug 8, 2013 19:55:56 GMT by Dez
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,256
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Dez, I have an unknown banjo wheel you are welcome to that Bryn gave me a few years back, I'll chuck it in the mg and drag it to the gathering if your going this year?
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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today saw the removal of the front wings and the grille panel and rad, to allow access to assess, clean down and weld the front of the chassis as well. in more 'as usual for a series landrover' news, the bottom inch or so of the grille panel needs needs replacing, so thats off and in the workshop to do one evening. the rad is a recore, no idea when but id guess at '92, as thats just after it last changed hands, and when I think it had the engine swap done (the new fuel lines fitted to do the swap are dated '92), although looking at the condition if it it could well be newer. oddly though its been tack welded to the grille panel rather than bolted, I think this is because its been moved forward a little to allow clearance for the water pump, which meant the mounting holes on the side didnt allign anymore, and as its impossible to redrill them with the rad and grille panel in-situ, they resorted to welding instead. ive dropped it off as one complete unit, adn will drill the holes through before cutting off the welds, so it can be dismantled in future if necessary. wings off- the fixings were a mix of metric and imperial, the splash panels were quite bodged up and the passenger one appears to have been refashioned from an old bit of machinery, indicating someone had been here before. amazingly it still had most of the steering box cover on though! drivers chassis rail is patched up around the dumb-iron as normal- but surprisingly good back at the kick-down/steering box mount/ rear spring hanger area- pass side is worse, dumb-iron is totally shot- and the lower edges of the spring hanger area are pretty bad too. not unfixable, just the spring will need removing which is always a challenge on these- so all in all, not a bad lot on the chassis welding really, considering this is a 300 quid series 2a thats been sat for at least 15 years by all accounts. this is the bulkhead footwells from the other side- crispy, but nothing I cant fix. the bulkhead has actually had a proper A-pillar repair panel fitted at some time, not the tidiest of jobs, but I can make it good and neat I recon- ive also had the brakes apart and freed them off, the sticking OSF was down to the shoes having delaminated and the friction material having fallen off, so they were floating round and jamming together as it rolled. no other brake issues were found, indeed they look to be in very good order, quite clean with genuine girling cyls all round and next to no drum wear. tbh I think this truck had quite an easy life before its extended lay-up as much of it is far better than it should be. someone has made a pretty good job of buggering up the rear wheel bolts and their threads in the hubs though, and made a mess of drilling out the drum retaining screws, so theres some stuff to put right there. I'm fairly sure splined 'repair studs' used to be available for this issue, I need to take a look. only other mechanical issue found is a buggered OSF wheel bearing, everything else seems ok so far. next job, welding!
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Last Edit: Aug 8, 2013 20:39:58 GMT by Dez
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dez, I have an unknown banjo wheel you are welcome to that Bryn gave me a few years back, I'll chuck it in the mg and drag it to the gathering if your going this year? that would be great rich, I'm not going this year though as it inconveniently falls right in the middle of a 'take our house project from a bare shell to livable in six weeks before the missus starts her new job and needs to move in' period ive got going on. i think davenger or pete luckygti shoud be able to convey it back my way if thats ok though?
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,256
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Dez, I have an unknown banjo wheel you are welcome to that Bryn gave me a few years back, I'll chuck it in the mg and drag it to the gathering if your going this year? that would be great rich, I'm not going this year though as it inconveniently falls right in the middle of a 'take our house project from a bare shell to livable in six weeks before the missus starts her new job and needs to move in' period ive got going on. I think davenger or pete luckygti shoud be able to convey it back my way if thats ok though? Fine with me buddy. It's quite.. Used.. But then that will suit I'm sure just let someone know who's passing your way and ill pass it on
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Bit of welding to do then! ;-)
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Koos
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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that would be great rich, I'm not going this year though as it inconveniently falls right in the middle of a 'take our house project from a bare shell to livable in six weeks before the missus starts her new job and needs to move in' period ive got going on. I think davenger or pete luckygti shoud be able to convey it back my way if thats ok though? Fine with me buddy. It's quite.. Used.. But then that will suit I'm sure just let someone know who's passing your way and ill pass it on suits the rest of it perfectly then ile talk to the chaps and see who can oblige, thanks very much. Bit of welding to do then! ;-) a bit- but nothing that taxing. the missus is away this weekend, so I'm gunna see how much i can get done in her absence as i think with no calamities ir distractions, i can get most of the chassis done and ready to paint. biggest issue at the mo is due to the aforementioned house project spare cash is tight, so the £85 needed to buy a new rear crossmember to do the job right is proving difficult to source, but i want to do it right rather than just chuck a bit of box or something on there. might be time to do a scrap run or two to drag in some pennies i think!
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Money always gets in the way of having fun! :-(
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Koos
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Going by the state of the chassis, I'm suprised how much of the original footwells are left. It's a shame that the reproduction pattern footwell repair panels don't have the pressed ribs in place, though if you have the time and tools to hand, making good replacement panels shouldn't be an issue.
Are you going to use the dumb-iron repair sections or make your own? The reason I ask is the last set I used were of awful quality without the required strengtheners for the bumper bolts.
The last chassis I repaired, I fabricated about half of the dumb-iron from scratch keeping as much of the good original metal as possible and improving the internal drain channels to minimise water/rust trap problems in the future.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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mdh, don't it always.
sowen, yeah surprisingly theres still enough there to act as patterns, and i have a bead roller (see the floor in my A/the pickup, the bomber seats I'm making, etc.) so my panels will have the swages in. i think ile probably add some to the other floor panels too, my OCD wont allow such a large flat panel to be refitted without some swaging!
ile make up my own dumb-irons, i have a profusion of appropriate materials and as you say the repros are a bit hokey, not to mention expensive. ile just replace what needs replacing really, the front crossmember is good so i know ive got that to work to. probably go up to 3mm rather than the 2pointsomething the repair bits usually are. biggest hassle is getting the front springs and axle off without removing every knuckle i have.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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oh, in other news heres some pics i took of getting the fuel filter to seal up properly. the PO had removed it to 'clean it up', and it had fallen apart and he couldnt get the O-ring to reseal. i still don't know what the engine is from, but from the dimensions i got i figured the fuel filter was the same as one of the massey ferguson ones, out of the half a dozen different option it could be. i fitted it blind as you cant really see whats going on from above and didnt fancy a faceful of diesel doing it from below, but still couldnt get it to seal. so i took the filter housing off and chucked it through the degreaser- here is the issue- the O-ring wasnt wide enough for the groove. but i didnt have the right one. they were either the right diameter but too narrow for the groove, or the right width for the groove but too big. so, i cut one down and superglued the cut ends back together. here it is next to the old perished one- fitted- then all back together on the engine, after spilling diesel all over it. but at least it seals up now! plus, i got the V5 back from DOOVLA, and its down as oct '65 for first reg.
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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hahaha - that takes me back
when I had a perkins in the truck, I also could find NO info on it, and so when I needed a fuel filter took the old one to my mate at the local tractor spares place - and mine too cross referenced as a massey one!
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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And i'm sweating about the two tiny holes in my LR chassis! ha! bookmarked
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Aug 10, 2013 21:14:17 GMT
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That doesn't look bad at all welding wise, to save cash could you just buy a crossmember and fab up the extentions?
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Aug 10, 2013 22:29:56 GMT
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Ha, didn't realise your Perkins was this type kev. Tractor motors ftw!
Terraroot, I'm used to welding. It's what I do all day every day, more or less! You should see the standard vanguard I'm doing for a customer at the mo, this is a peach in comparison.
Dodgerover, that is the price for just the cross member, one with the crappy sleeve-over the rust extensions is about £20 more.
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Aug 11, 2013 23:02:28 GMT
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Dodgerover, that is the price for just the cross member, one with the crappy sleeve-over the rust extensions is about £20 more. Ouch...I can remember them being £40 for the one with the extensions...Not much chance of finding a good one on a scrapper either.
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Aug 12, 2013 21:07:43 GMT
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Just catching up, pretty sure there was another one parked in the same spot last time I visited!!Liking this a lot, let me know if you need a hand housewise, I'm at home in the evenings and lacking motivation to get out into the garage myself (Coz I is lazy ) I am going to Prescott so I'll try and remember to collar Rich and his steering wheel!
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,715
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Aug 12, 2013 21:16:53 GMT
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so, the welding has begun! first i chopped off the not fully welded, lapped over fuel tank outrigger and sorted that- then, i started on the other rail. tbh, its a mess. i chopped this bit out to get the shape of the curve at the rear kickup first- i templated it off the other side, cut out a plate, and stuck it in. don't think i took a pic though. then i started sorting out the badly-replaced passenger side bulkhead outrigger. i made a big hole- its not very nice in there- the 'new' outrigger is rough too- one whack and the original weld on the repair panel broke. quality items. then i chopped the rotten bottom corner off, it had been badly fitted meaning it was collecting water/mud/leaves/small rodents. i made up a new bit- and them put a patch in the top where it was thin from mud sitting on it- then, miss a few steps, and here it is reattached to a new section of chassis rail- then, things got slightly out of hand...... i couldnt get in to sort the grot on the inside of the rail, so this happened- i chopped this bit off too cos it was doing my head in, and was rusty. battery will be going somewhere else. oh look, its a big smelly perkins. adapter setup is quite a nice bit of kit though.
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