Aftermarket alarm removal

[ryanmil]

My Mazda Eunos has got an aftermarket Scorpion alarm/immobiliser fitted; carrier out by an authorised installer etc. however one of the fobs has stopped working (changed battery, but still not working) and I basically don't trust the system.

Previous experience tells me that dodgy alarms can be more trouble than they're worth!

Spoken to an auto electrician who wants £100 to remove, but I'm tight and I was wondering how difficult it would be to remove? I'm guessing they have some sort of anti-tamper device so that they fail-safe should someone try to just rip it out?

Thanks in advance

[Deleted]

It depends on the alarm model. You can get a wiring diagram for yours by emailing Scorpion.
Mine (Scorpion 738) has a small round key to turn it off. If yours does too then that's all you need to do.
To remove it completely you need to unplug the alarm loom reconnect those wires which were cut and spliced into the alarm loom. On mine this was the starter motor and the the central locking from the drivers door. It's easiest just to leave the alarm loom in place and reconnect them at the plug.

[chairchild]

basically, trace back the wires back, cut at the splices, and rejoin the original wires. That's pretty much all there is to it

[ChasR]

The above depends IMO Chairchild. Some Clifford alarms end up messing around with the stock loom quite a bit to make the cars 'unstealable'. Great if this has been installed via a good installer. Not so good (as it seems to be the case) if installed by a numpty out for a cheap buck.

In the case of my 306 (which came with a very poorly installed Clifford 650) I had to redo the bypass wires the PO had kindly put in for me (From tracing the history back, the Clifford would randomly go off, upon seeing how it was installed, this was not surprising in the slightest). That and I had an ex-Clifford employee talk me through it luckily.

Some alarms I do agree basically need yanking out.

[retrowrongun]

Should be really easy this mate , most alarms will have two or three immobilised circuits
Along with live an earth obviously

Remove the live and earth then trace the other wires back to the immobilised circuit
Usually ignition switch ,fuel pump or coil circuit

Each immo circuit will have two wires from the alarm box usually all black to make difficult for thieves

These are usually spliced into your cars wiring for eg lets just say its a coil circuit
You will have one black alarm wire attached to the live wire of coil which has been cut
then another black alarm wire attached to the other cut end of coil supply live

This creates a loop so in order for the coil circuit to work o. Your car it needs to be bypassed through your alarm and alarm switched off


Hope ya know what I'm jibbering on about

Just a case of joining your original loom wires back together on the immo circuits

[DavidB]

May 5, 2014 15:57:34 GMT @londonbabe said:

It depends on the alarm model. You can get a wiring diagram for yours by emailing Scorpion.
Mine (Scorpion 738) has a small round key to turn it off. If yours does too then that's all you need to do.
To remove it completely you need to unplug the alarm loom reconnect those wires which were cut and spliced into the alarm loom. On mine this was the starter motor and the the central locking from the drivers door. It's easiest just to leave the alarm loom in place and reconnect them at the plug.

I have the same alarm - they came as an option in mk1 MR2s and Mercs.

An afermarket only controls/gets a signal from the indicators, door switches, and to the sensor mounted inside the cabin. If it has an immobiliser, it will be bridging the fuel pump or the starter motor. Find the alarm and trace the plug wiring to wherever they're spliced into.

[welshpug]

No experience of the Mazda, but the 205 I helped a mate dismantle last weekend took barely a few minutes to bypass.

I did have the dashboard out of it however But chopping into the bright orange starter motor wire 6 inches from the ignition switch, then joining back up to it rather near by, and also a Beige fuel pump wire 3 inches from the fuel pump relay and back onto the same wire a few inches away made it REALLY difficult to bypass...