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Aug 15, 2014 17:30:38 GMT
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Here is my skoda estelle, as you will see in the pics she needs a tad of work, I'm wondering if anyone has any knowledge in these? it needs wiring for the engine water pipes(i can do that) it needs engine mount bushes, where do i buy these as its got custom mounts, is it ment to have a gaping hole for the flywheel or do i need to make a plate/cover? and the gearbox, theirs a block of wood wedge underneaf it, i assume the gear box mounts need replacing/spacing or both? please see pictures. i have orderd the haynes for it but as its not an origanal engine I'm not sure how helpfull that will be, I'm an apprentice mechanic by day. Box of bits buggerd engine mount, both are like it OH hello flywheel as you can see, alot of loose wires i need a gear box dip stick and also any carb cable kits out their, my cable has come away from the metal shroud this is quite cool, little hatch inside leads to this theirs the flywheel again and heres the block off wood/gearbox mount anyone who can help, id like to get the car running by the end of the month but i understand that might not be possible, if anyone has a bonnet aswell, my front edge is a little cursty
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Aug 15, 2014 19:36:41 GMT
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Oh...you bought that car! Firstly go onto the Skoda OC facebook site - you will find lots of knowledgeable people over there. Parts are relatively readily available from Skoparts International - or Paul Wyatt as he is better knowm. You will find him on the OC site and his own FB Skoparts Int site. Don't worry about the flywheel being visible...it's normally covered by a tin plate but it's unlikely to come to much harm unless you're planning on going stage rallying. Your engine mounts look goosed - you can get a set new for about £40 from Skoparts. The gearbox is only supported at the front mounts - the back attaches to the engine and is held in place by it. The piece of wood should not be there - the mounts should support it. Front gearbox mounts are still available....I think they are under £40 but I could be imagining it. The Haynes is very useful and will cover most of what you need to know but the wiring diagrams are curse word.
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Aug 15, 2014 19:54:40 GMT
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Used to work on these back in the early 90's, cant remember the gearbox having a dipstick ( or any manual gearbox having a dipstick ) but i see a tube in the pic Is this the Skoda that used to have the Rotary engine ?
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72 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400. 95 BMW E34 525i Manual. 80 Lotus Elite, sold 86 Mk4 Escort RWD V8, sold
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Aug 15, 2014 21:22:51 GMT
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There is no gearbox dipstick - but there is a filler in the hatch in the pictures...there is also a plug half way up the gearbox - to fill the box to the correct level you remove the plug and then full until the oil starts to come out of the plug. The throttle cable is basic - a standard universal cable from bay for about £20 will be fine...just make sure you get one long enough. It attaches to a pivot that comes from the accelerator pedal in the car...there is access in the drive tunnel off the passenger footwell. Haynes is your friend!
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Aug 15, 2014 21:37:31 GMT
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ok cool cheers guys, il jack the car up tomorow and see where that tube leads to. its not the rotary one no but it is the one that use to run a 110bhp engine on twin 40's ive contacted paul cheers for the heads up and yeh, for 375quid of ebay, I'm pretty chuffed.
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Aug 15, 2014 22:18:04 GMT
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great buy for that sort of money
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Kieran
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,092
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Aug 15, 2014 22:33:04 GMT
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What you think is the the gearbox dipstick is probably a copper pipe that's fitted to the brake servo. It should go all the way to the front boot, connecting to the servo unit.
In the engine bay, you connect it to the inlet manifold horsetail, thus providing vacuum assistance, (or more accurately negative pressure!)
The Haynes book will be fine, it covers the later 136 Rapid which essentially had the same engine as the Felicia, bar dipstick location, etc.
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The Ashby Jackson fleet:-
1979 Mini Clubman 1.8 K series 1978 Skoda 110r Project 130RS K-oupe 1978 Austin Allegro 1500 SDL Estate 1984 BMW K100 Sidecar outfit 1999 Yamaha FZS 1000 Fazer 1991 Kawasaki ZXR400 race bike 2002 Kawasaki ZX9r race bike
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Aug 15, 2014 22:35:59 GMT
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Aug 16, 2014 13:26:55 GMT
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she use to alot better lol. hopefully i can restore her back but as she will be seeing the track, no expensive resprays for now.
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tenman
Part of things
m00000000000
Posts: 899
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Aug 16, 2014 13:47:51 GMT
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isn't that the engine dipstick and its in that position cos the engines been replaced by a FWD one from a Felica?...
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RWD Fanatic...
2003 BMW 320d Wagon (getting old and boring) 1996 Mini Kensington (SWMBO's)
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Aug 16, 2014 18:46:47 GMT
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isn't that the engine dipstick and its in that position cos the engines been replaced by a FWD one from a Felica?... Yes its the engine dipstick (Rapid 136 and LHD 135 Estelles) had the dipstick in a different place but I think he is talking about the open metal pipe to the left of the engine on the photo - which is (as Kieran says) almost certainly the vacuum feed for the servo. Long way to go to get it on track and it's got the wrong rear end for really decent handling but anything is possible with work. The 136 engine is relatively easy to get 90-100bhp out of with the right parts and set up.
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ftz313
Part of things
Posts: 221
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Aug 16, 2014 20:34:56 GMT
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Hi. That is my old engine. I sold it to the owner before the one you bought it from. I drove about on that engine as it was in my estelle for about a year before I fitted a Peugeot engine. There never were any covers for the gearbox that I can remember. The engine was in my 120L five. It is indeed a fwd felicia engine with a rwd sump and other such bits on it. I always meant to get round to sorting the exhaust, essentially taking out the 90' bends and putting curves in. It was a good engine that went well. Did 95 etc. The only issue I had was with the dizzy. It has a splined two piece shaft and it started jumping and being out of synch. I had to weld it together and grind the welds back. This was all done in a hurry one night but I then used it for 6 months like that and it never gave any issues. The other thing is you'll need an electric fuel pump as that engine originally had an electric in tank pump. To wire the engine up you just need to feed an ignition positive to the distributor. The engine should still be in good nick. It was never an oil burner and I used to rev the nuts off it. :-) Yes it was my engine but I never did any of the work to it so can't really tell you much about it. i.e what is what. However I know it was a good engine and I suggest you stick with it. :-) Good luck. Be nice to see it again in person one day. Iain.
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Aug 17, 2014 16:05:01 GMT
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its got a little facet cube pump next to the engine. so the tube is the servo vacumn? cool. i take it the if i wanted to i could replace the dizzy drive with another? as I'm looking at a felicia to take the engine out of and build up. do you know anything about the block of wood?
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Aug 17, 2014 16:07:27 GMT
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i plan to sort the exhaust out with a very small scorpion box, ive asked for a tig welder for xmas so hopefully i can weld a nice stainless system and manifold as i don't like using my curse word mig to much.
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Aug 17, 2014 18:53:04 GMT
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What's wrong with the dizzy drive? Be careful which Felicia you get an engine out of - some later ones don't have the indent for the spigot bearing that you need at the end of the crank. I would imagine the block of wood is there cause the mounts are goosed and the drive train is vibrating against the cross member. Unless you're planning on running a big Weber (like a 40) or 2 then you should be able to convert back to the mechanical pump - there will be a blanking plate you can remove below the camshaft follower gallery and fit one...3 bolts does it.
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ftz313
Part of things
Posts: 221
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Aug 17, 2014 20:28:48 GMT
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The dizzy will be perfect. I ran it for 6 months like that. It's splined and meant to be an interference fit. All I did was weld it to stop it coming off.
I don't think there is a blanking plate on the head or block. . It's cast without one as I remember looking at it.
Don't fret about the engine or exhaust. It should be perfect. Even the dizzy is timed up. :-)
I can remember the night I took that engine out. Must have been February 2011 !
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Aug 17, 2014 21:44:17 GMT
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oh right cool, i do plan to run webbers soon. I'm not threating about the exhaust, id just like my own on their if that makes sence. and yeh, u guys are right its the servo pipe, had a look in the boot and theirs a copper pipe pokeing up
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There is no point in sticking twin Webers on it unless you are going to do some fairly radical tuning - unless you want a world of hassle and big fuel bills....and MOT fails on emissions. It looks like it has a hefty Weber on it (is it a DGAS?) which is probably already over fuelling it - you don't need twin 40s until you get over 100bhp (and even then it's borderline) and they are expensive - not just to buy (manifold, linkage, carbs) but also to run and they regularly need rebalanced to keep their tune. The Skoda pushrod engine is hard to tune and getting over 100bhp is not easy - lots of people claim to have big power engines but are very rarely able to prove it. I've spent quite a few years now fiddling with various versions and have numerous rolling road graphs to tell the tale (often of woe). If I were you I would build an engine with the carb you've got now and see what it does - or go for bike carbs...Bogg Bros will make a manifold to fit and then you just need to find some roughly the right size. Much easier to set up, better on fuel and won't drown the engine if you aren't doing 6000rpm all the time.
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Aug 18, 2014 21:26:17 GMT
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intake manifold is not a problem as good freinds of mine own a massvie machining company and make manifolds every day. if ur pateint decent twin 40s can be bought for 100quid with a linkage at auto jumbles and ebay(ive done it), don't know where you take ur cars for mots but old cars don't really matter with emissions, all that solves it is tweaking with the carb a little. also my college has a rolling road and ive been told when ever i want to stick any of my cars on i am more than welcome so proving power is no worry for me, i prefer the sound of twin webers to bike carbs, but i may consider bike throttle bodies.
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My main point was that they are unneccesary unless you're building a race or rally engine - which is why Skoda never fitted them to road cars. The tuned sport models had a single 40 on a banana manifold and all others came with a single Jikov. If you have a cam and engine spec that needs twin 40s then it's going to be a lumpy old beast. You obviously want them and have experience of them and if you can find a pair with linkage for £100 (about a third of their Ebay going rate) then go for it. Be careful what engine you choose though because a lot of the Felicia's came without any facility to fit the spigot bearing (as I mentioned previously) and the MPI head which is the best head to have is fitted with entirely unsuitable valve springs and needs work/machining to sort it....oh and lots of them came with low compression 135 engines....and the pistons in most 136 engines won't handle race/rally tuning because they're made from Cadbury's Crunchie.
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