Bolt on body or weld in

[Paul Barrett]

After some advice from all you custome builders,
I'm looking at getting the body set onto the frame of my build very soon

retrorides.proboards.com/thread/161401/opel-manta-series-v8-1uzfe

I'm not sue whether to weld it. All together as I initially intended or now possibly bolt the body to the frame I have built, I'm unsure on how to go bout bolting it on, need some sort of out riggers possibly like a land. Rover etc,

Any. Advice ideas or links to other projects would be awesome

[bmw2101]

e28 diff, why have you done that if you don't mind me asking/ tell me more!


I have e36 compact./

[Paul Barrett]

Strong, can handle a lot of torque and LSD, quite cheap

[stealthstylz]

If youre putting the body onto a unmodified chassis that has a registration number (v5) already you have to bolt the body on.

If its a custom chassis or similar its upto you, but if you weld it on then IVA it, if in future you make alterations to the body in theory you'd have to IVA it again and it would be classed as a monocoque. Whereas if you bolt it on the body is then free to modify further if needed.

[Paul Barrett]

I know all the registering stuff etc as it is virtually a new car etc.

I'm after some guidance on the actual engineering to mount the body

Cheers

[Dez]

bolt it on, youll need a subfloor in it to add strength to the body though. i usually do it with thinwall(1.6mm) 25x25 and 50x25 ERW box section. youll only need 3 or 4 runs across the car at key locations (A/B pillars, etc) to add enough strength and it gives a good base to lay the floors off too.

[Paul Barrett]

Cheers dez

So basically get the body set to the level I want it, then build in a floor to just the dody with a frame so it's own solid structure.
Allow some key mount points like you say, would 6 points be enough?

[Paul Barrett]

I'll need to get the chassis prop route sorted with safety hoops in then get body and floor in

[Dez]

6 should suffice depening on where they are. staggering them height wise makes them much more effective. A and B post will usually always be at the same height, but if you can stick your rear one up on top of the subframe or something. if you build your prop loops and tunnel loops into it it makes making the tunnel easy as you can just bend it over the loops.

have a look in my pickup and model A threads in my sig, its how both of them are done, may take some digging to find the relevant bit though.