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Hi guys got an issue thats bugging me on my 1100 mk2 fiesta its ran beautifully until recently when left for overnight or for over 12 hours or so basically when the engine is cold it take a few turns / cranks to get it running it never used to be like this so my first place to check would be the diaphram right?
As from reading ihave seen that an old worn out diaphram can cause cold start issues , the battery and starter motor are fine i have checked those.
Just asking as i am on the lookout for a weber but probing hars to find and this vv carb has been brillaint bar this recent cold start issue
Cheers
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The diaphragm can get hard with age. When VV carbs were common I've ended up changing them at 5-6 years old with noticeable improvements in running. Whether they affect cold stating however I can't say but "gut" feeling is problem is elsewhere.
Going back to the beginning.
You say you have to crank over the car for a while before it starts. Is it spluttering and trying to start during this period ? Does it have a manual or auto choke ? If manual is the knob operating the mechanism the full travel ? If auto is it set up correctly - ie choke fully on when cold (remove air filter and visibly see if choke closed) ? Are plugs all good and gaped correctly ? Has it got points / condenser or electronic ignition ? If points are they correctly adjusted and again in good condition ? Is there a ballast resistor in the coil feed ? If so then normally there is another wire from the starter so coil gets full 12v when starter operated. Is the top end noisy - valve clearances properly set ? If too quiet that can also mean a problem with gaps closing up so valves slightly open - can happens with leaded cars running on unleaded for a long period (years)
If it's pre Feb 1986 then it won't have hardened valve seats and unleaded additive would be needed. If pre Feb 86 and additive not used then valve seats could be damaged and therefore compression low.
Good luck sorting out the problem
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Hi, are the non return valves in the fuel pump shot allowing the fuel to drain back? Has to be churned to get the fuel back up.
Colin
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barty
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,088
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repair by all means but your best bet is to change to a weber, you will notice the difference.
seems like that old carb is okish till it starts to mess about then most people just swap carbs to a weber, try a wanted ad in this forum
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Hi, are the non return valves in the fuel pump shot allowing the fuel to drain back? Has to be churned to get the fuel back up. Colin I thought of that too but the car should still start on the fuel in the float chamber. |
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The diaphragm can get hard with age. When VV carbs were common I've ended up changing them at 5-6 years old with noticeable improvements in running. Whether they affect cold stating however I can't say but "gut" feeling is problem is elsewhere. Going back to the beginning. You say you have to crank over the car for a while before it starts. Is it spluttering and trying to start during this period ? Does it have a manual or auto choke ? If manual is the knob operating the mechanism the full travel ? If auto is it set up correctly - ie choke fully on when cold (remove air filter and visibly see if choke closed) ? Are plugs all good and gaped correctly ? Has it got points / condenser or electronic ignition ? If points are they correctly adjusted and again in good condition ? Is there a ballast resistor in the coil feed ? If so then normally there is another wire from the starter so coil gets full 12v when starter operated. Is the top end noisy - valve clearances properly set ? If too quiet that can also mean a problem with gaps closing up so valves slightly open - can happens with leaded cars running on unleaded for a long period (years) If it's pre Feb 1986 then it won't have hardened valve seats and unleaded additive would be needed. If pre Feb 86 and additive not used then valve seats could be damaged and therefore compression low. Good luck sorting out the problem Wow cheers for the reply mike! The car cranks fine just doesnt fire after two or three goes and me touching the throttle a few times.. I even pump the pedal 2 or so times before starting so am starting it properly. Manual choke full travel yes even if i pull it out doesnt seem to help that much on the cold start front. Have yet to check the plugs inassume they need changing cheap enough anyway . Its electronic ignition and dizzy cap looks old from the outside tried the wd40 trick disnt really help as well so i will order a new one when i service it. Its 1988 so unleaded seats it does have , so suited for unleaded theres no issue with compression there sobthat can be written off! Not sure if it has a ballast resistor wire to starter if it does what should i be looking for to check / maintane? Top ends not that noisy at all but have to admit they probably need checking. Pointing towards a good thourough service so far and replacing the diaphram checking timing before i jump to a weber carb then ! Thanks for your help so far tho guys |
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Dec 11, 2014 19:21:24 GMT
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problems still here this cars testing me I tell you guys!
basically 1st key it will just turn over and not fire , then turn the key again for the second or maybe third time and if I pump the accelerator a fair few times it might come to life...
this is always from cold /24hrs later once its warm starts up fine.
would this be fuel pump related ? or from my symptoms definitely the vv carb ?
has new sparks new battery, even changed the dizzy cap and rotor arm. leads are arriving tomorrow as well..
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koma
Part of things
Posts: 238
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Dec 20, 2014 21:24:01 GMT
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Might be an idea to check your timing, if its a bit retarded from base spec it'll be harder to start when cold.
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Dec 20, 2014 21:30:24 GMT
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well funnily enough I found a cracked spark plug so changed all the leads sparks (still got to time it up) but it fires perfect from cold now- how odd ,I'm not complaining!  |
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