Best way to sort this rust out?

[1430MK1]

I've had this shell for about 10 years now.

It's pretty much just sat there gathering dust. I'm looking to build it up soon but the inside is starting to look a little shabby. As you can see from the photos there is a fair amount of surface rust. I'm kind of thinking it must have been left outside at some point and also the paint is fairly thin which wont have helped

With regard to removing the surface rust, I'm thinking of stripping it bare (wire wheel perhaps?) and using a high quality rust treatment(any suggestions?). Giving it a decent zinc rich primer and top coat. There is also rust in the seams between panels and I'm not too sure what to do with it. I cant get anything in there to clean it out and a bit stumped....

I'm keen to know what people would recommend for dealing with both the surface rust and rust in the seams.

Many thanks,

Gareth

Sorry, the photos are a bit cack.

[stealthstylz]

I'd be taking those cage welds back and doing them properly first. A dog shagging a horse would get more penetration.

[93fxdl]

Wire brushing an entire shell could be seen as self mutilation, as that amount of vibration in the hands and noise in the ears can cause severe and long term health problems, options would be dipping or blasting, first will get into seams but reside can cause rusting later , second won't get into seams but hasn't any residual rust problems.
Can't advise as to which finish to use unless you fancy using aldi/lidl metal paint, as that is my finish of choice, (this week)
Ttfn Glenn

[86corolla]

Apr 4, 2015 19:47:17 GMT stealthstylz said:

I'd be taking those cage welds back and doing them properly first. A dog shagging a horse would get more penetration.

That made laugh well done that man

[86corolla]

Another thought is have u been welding or grinding near it

[1430MK1]

The paint work on the outside is fairly good so don't fancy dipping or blasting. I appreciate that would be the best way to sort it though.

It's is coming through the paint rather than something on the surface.

[eternaloptimist]

Depends how long you want it to last.

If you want to do a proper job, get it blasted. That will get you back to bare metal. If you want to get to the rust in the seams and overlaps, you're going to have to cut metal away, clean the seam up, plenty of inch rich weld through primer and put some new metal back.

If the paintwork on the shell is genuinely in good shape, you could just get the inside and underneath blasted.

If it's something you're going to use competitively, then beyond the comments around the quality of the welding on the cage, I'd be inclined to just get on and build it up.

[composimmonite]

Apr 4, 2015 20:06:35 GMT 86corolla said:

Apr 4, 2015 19:47:17 GMT stealthstylz said:

I'd be taking those cage welds back and doing them properly first. A dog shagging a horse would get more penetration.

That made laugh well done that man

Me too

[steveo3002]

as for high quality rust treatment , imo there is none , remove the rust totaly then epoxy prime it and its done for a good few years - none of the brush on and turn it black jollop will keep it at bay

[at200]

I would use a wire brush on a drill, or even a Dremmel, to get right into the seams. Dronco clean and strip fleeces are good too, but around £6 each.

If any rust remains, I have found Bilt Hamber Deox gel will pretty much deal with it. Then either epoxy primer (Lechler 29107 is non iso I believe and can be sprayed at home) or Bilt Hamber Electrox which is 90% zinc and comes in aerosols or tins so can be brushed or sprayed.

I don't think rust converters are any good, though I have used them on light rust inside where I just wanted to give a coat of metal paint. I wouldn't use them on a visible or structural bit as they just stabilise the rust and it will return eventually.

If you have gone to the trouble of having a respray, it's worth spending a bit and doing the time consuming job of eradicating the rust altogether.

[1430MK1]

Brill, thanks guys.

I appreciate the work on the cage could be better but I'm not going to cut it out now.

Thanks for the advice on the products, I'm off to have a look at the bilt hamber products.

Cheers

[taurus]

My method is to use a combination of a wire cup brush in an angle grinder, a powerfile fitted with a ceramic belt and a Dremel. I use an old screwdriver for seams. Clean back to bare metal as much as possible. I use two coats of Dinitrol Converust, then paint with Bonda Primer (high zinc), then prime and topcoat.

I doubt it kills the rust entirely, but it seems to last a good few years before any further signs appear.

For bits that don't show I've used Ronseal NoRust because I bought some by accident years ago to use on my boat trailer, and I've never had to repaint it since so it seems to last quite well. Given that previously I used Hammerite and had to repaint annually the Ronseal stuff seems to do quite well. It's 9 years since I last painted the trailer and it's been out in all weathers since then.

[at200]

Another vote for the power file from me. Probably the best tool I have bought to help with my car resto. Quickly removes paint and rust and gets into areas where a grinder or drill can't reach.

I have been at B and Q this aft and they have the one I got, the Black and Decker one, for £40, which is a good price.

I must admit I held off buying one as it just seemed like another expense, but it has been worth every penny in terms of time and effort saved. The B and D belts are expensive but if you buy the blue zirconia ones from eBay they last longer and are much cheaper.

[hario]

Apr 4, 2015 19:47:17 GMT stealthstylz said:

I'd be taking those cage welds back and doing them properly first. A dog shagging a horse would get more penetration.

LOL!


I used a spot blaster to de-rust bits like that on my mini, makes a mess though.

www.google.co.uk/search?q=spot+blaster&safe=off&biw=1350&bih=990&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=X0kuVZOLC8jzauWQgOgK&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAw

Is it for Miglia or casual? Linky to the build thread when it happens please!