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Goodday everyone,
My car, a Volvo 850 2.5 20V non-turbo is probably gonna need a new exhaust after the upcoming winterperiod. I plan on assembling the system myself, including a new cat. Thing is, I want it to be a bit louder (ofcourse...) than stock. My concern is that it will sound like a diesel, like a lot of the turbo-models sound like when idling/low in the revrange with an aftermarket exhaust. Personally I love the 'older', raspier sound of classics. A great example would be the 6 cylinder E-type: that's the sort of sound I'm after! I would also like it to be almost drone-free, at least around cruising speeds.
Does anyone have some advice in how to pick the right mufflers, resonators, cat?
Cheers,
Koen
Btw: I'll be shooting for stainless steel, I've seen those aluminised steel systems rot through in as little as 2 years....
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The problem is you will have no idea of what it will sound like if you are going to build your own out of bits . Why not just buy one off the shelf from a good brand ? Its going to be a hell of a lot cheaper and a hell of a lot less messing around finding things do not fit or are to noisy .
Most cars sound bad because they have a to big a bore for the gas flow , some even sounding like gas bubbling through water [ ' tuned ' turbo diesels ]
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The problem is that there are not a lot of systems for the non-turbo models and the sound coming from the systems that are available are not to my taste. Above all: stainless systems for the non-turbo seem to be even rarer...
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have you checked if a turbo cat back would actually fit? half a chance they would.
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How do you know what it sounds like ? You can get a jetex half system and i have seen a decat pipe as well .
You can build your own but can you weld ?
If you can just take it off , measure the angle of the bends and order some . Then of course you will need to get sleeved sections made or buy them and weld them on . Up the pipe diameter by 1/4 " and buy some silencers to fit . It will probably cost you much more than buying one of the shelf .
And to be fair , in my experience you are not going to be able to magically transform the sound to similar to a old jag .
And to be honest you will just be making one from of the shelf parts similar to what the aftermarket manufacturers use anyway ....
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It will be a bit of experimenting ofcourse, and the Jag reference was more as a 'guideline'. I know there's lot's of other factors that affect the sound. Thing is: I'm looking at a system INCLuding the cat, so from the headers down. Till now I've heard 2 custom systems, ferrita's, OBX on turbo's and a simons system (which I quite liked, but was not available in RVS...). So yeah, I think that I'll just have a go at experimenting then  Thanks guys! Edit: the only system I've been liking more then the simons was a custom job, but cost the guy more then 800 euros, I thought it was... |
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Best sounding N/A 850:
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 Click picture for more |
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that's allllll induction noise, as its on ITB's  i.e <<<Those  |
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That car is the reason I'm driving an 850! It's from a Dutchman as well, and it's got a ferrita catback with a racecat in front of it. The noise you hear mainly is induction and the fact that it can rev to about 8500 rpm  There is another great video of it driving past on the straight of the TT-circuit in Assen. There he also has new, custom cams in it. Things to dream and plan about for the future Until then: chime in if you have any suggestions  |
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I'd say try and source a secondhand complete system so you have something to copy / take measurements rather than lying underneath your own car. You can weld stainless with mild steel MIG but it'll rust at that point just the same as a steel system. Have you therefore got a method of stainless welding (TIG ?). Don't go for a too large dia pipework - that is often the cause of poor sound. Remember specialist spend many thousands developing and testing their systems so you aren't going to achieve the same results at home with a DIY system so "at the end of the day" it might be better to save up the pennies and buy at least the main part of a ready made system and then only work your own magic on the rear / silencer. What about going side exit    Obviously you'd need to incorporate a Cherry Bomb or similar  Personally I'm an old f4rt so like the quiet plus know that a 100% standard Jag, BMW, Merc, 850T etc will pee all over a car that just has a loud exhaust as noise doesn't mean power |
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you can use SS wire in a mig with Argon.
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I'd say try and source a secondhand complete system so you have something to copy / take measurements rather than lying underneath your own car. That's something I had not thought about yet, good one! You can weld stainless with mild steel MIG but it'll rust at that point just the same as a steel system. Have you therefore got a method of stainless welding (TIG ?). I thought the same as Welshpug said above this post: isn't that a rust-free option? The welds won't be as nice as TIG, but I have a MIG machine handy... |
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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you can use SS wire in a mig with Argon. ^this Can be done with regular Argoshield CO2 mix, but the welds are horrible. I've got a feeling you'd need to reduce the pipe diameter to get the sound you want, most older cars run small diameter exhausts whilst moderns are generally larger diameter? I've made a few exhausts for my projects, generally unrestricted and straight through and they always drone badly on cruise. It's also a right pain in the  to do depending on the car and original routing. The exhaust manifold itself also has a big influence on the sound the exhaust makes |
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,386
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Is there any truth to the saying that stainless systems sounds different to a mild steel versions?
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Current
1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype
2004 TVR T350C
2017 BMW 340i
Previous
BMW 325d E91LCI - sold
Alfa Romeo GTV - sold
Citroen AX GT - at the breakers
Ford Puma 1.7 - sold
Volvo V50 2.0d - sold
MGB GT - wrecked by fire
MG ZT 1.8T - sold
VW E-golf Electric - sold
Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold
Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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Is there any truth to the saying that stainless systems sounds different to a mild steel versions? Cheap "off the shelf" stainless systems are often thinner walled tubing compared to steel so can sound more "tinny". If you make your own system then you dictate what walled tube is used so there is the option of alleviating that sound. |
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sb
Part of things
Posts: 725 
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Aug 10, 2015 16:12:44 GMT
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From my experience the less you put in the way, the more rasp, so no cat no silencer, all rasp.
From there the more silencers or larger back box the more it smoothes it into a single tone.
The larger the pipe diameter the lower the note.
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Aug 10, 2015 16:28:21 GMT
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Is there any truth to the saying that stainless systems sounds different to a mild steel versions? Hi, yes it does but you're not comparing like with like, The old mild steel system has lost some of its thickness through rusting and is sooted up inside which acts as a noise insulator. Even brand new mild steel systems sound different because of the lack of soot. If you give the stainless system time to soot up it will change note but you may not notice the change because it's gradual. In the past I have put second hand stainless systems on and they sound fine. Colin |
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mikeymk
Part of things
'85 Polo Coupe S 1.6 16v
Posts: 931
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Exhaust sound is rubbish, it's all about induction noise - get trumpets on that engine! I've made a few exhausts for my Polo over the years and learnt a few things. It's a wind instrument, and no two are the same. I grew to like it quiet and smooth at high revs, but with a choppy helicopter sound below 2k. The way forward on my car was a single box system, with a small bore pipework into a medium silencer. It's always sounded like a Lancaster bomber at medium revs on the motorway, though. My current system, for a 140bhp 1.6 16v, is a stock tubular GTi 4-1 manifold into a 47mm single downpipe, full 47mm pipe into a stock Astra 2.0 8v silencer. This gives me a factory hot hatch style system so the 38mm bike carbs can sing and be heard! Nothing beats the sound of open individual bodies so the exhaust shouldn't interrupt them if you want your car to sound great. Only four funnels - i'd love to hear a 5cyl on individual carbs!  Haven't got a pic of the current exhaust. This is an old one, which was not such a success with it's (iron manifold and) boomy Powerflow box (even though i chopped the twin tailpipe off and swapped for a pea-shooter item)   Very different car but they all do the same thing. |
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Last Edit: Aug 16, 2015 2:21:43 GMT by mikeymk
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 1,984
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Aug 16, 2015 16:43:09 GMT
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I was told this chap knows his business. He also has a webshop if you insist on building your own system. |
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Aug 16, 2015 18:55:47 GMT
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I've just changed from a 6-2-1 tubular manifold feeding into a 2 1/8" stainless system with single rear straight through box to a 6-3-1 tubular manifold feeding into a 2 1/2" mild steel system with single 'small body' cherry bomb.
The change in sound is nothing short of remarkable. Much deeper but not soft at all, and of course, a fair bit louder. Absolutely no fartiness at all. Although the mild steel tube I used is a good 1.6mm wall thickness
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