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Nov 15, 2015 23:21:39 GMT
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Knock on a diesel is actually sometimes the opposite of in a petrol - t can be caused by late ignition. The idea is that the fuel ignites as it is injected and burns, but sometimes there is a delay between injection and ignition which causes an explosion instead of a burn and therefore knock. Think the reason for your higher petrol content mixes knocking a bit more would be that they require more pressure before igniting perhaps?
I don't think I'd be running straight veg any more now it's getting colder, my friend who used to regularly run veg in his d24 used to mix 5% petrol as you are and then dilute with 30% diesel during winter to lower the viscosity and avoid waxing.
Happy to do h/g as well if you like (go for an MLS type gasket, they hold boost better), I may have moved down to Bristol way by then but drop me a message and we can work something out.
Rich
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Last Edit: Nov 15, 2015 23:23:10 GMT by rich745
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Nov 16, 2015 15:58:39 GMT
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Really? Can't get my head round that, I used to heat and hold it at 60/80 degrees or so to dewater. Water and petrol don't mix from my experience stripping down carbs to remove blobs of water blocking the jets. I would guess its the % petrol that is making it noisy, veg oil burns slower than pump diesel retarding the ignition timing, (leading to a quieter engine at the same time) hence many people recommending advancing the timing slightly when running on veg. Ah this would explain it, as running on diesel it's absolutely fine, minus the pump ticking a bit but it doesn't seem to be getting any worse. Any way I can advance the timing just a touch, like a sort of "safe" amount without having to use timing tools. I'm not after precision, just a touch less knock knock.
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Nov 16, 2015 16:03:41 GMT
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Knock on a diesel is actually sometimes the opposite of in a petrol - t can be caused by late ignition. The idea is that the fuel ignites as it is injected and burns, but sometimes there is a delay between injection and ignition which causes an explosion instead of a burn and therefore knock. Think the reason for your higher petrol content mixes knocking a bit more would be that they require more pressure before igniting perhaps? I don't think I'd be running straight veg any more now it's getting colder, my friend who used to regularly run veg in his d24 used to mix 5% petrol as you are and then dilute with 30% diesel during winter to lower the viscosity and avoid waxing. Happy to do h/g as well if you like (go for an MLS type gasket, they hold boost better), I may have moved down to Bristol way by then but drop me a message and we can work something out. Rich H/G would be great, and Bristol is much closer to me as well! I'll PM you in the new year and we'll sort something out
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Nov 16, 2015 21:07:24 GMT
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I'm reading this with interest. My turbo diesel 309 seems to suffer with excessive diesel knock up till about 3k rpm. I only run it on pump diesel though. Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread
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Nov 16, 2015 21:48:13 GMT
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On most older diesels there are 3 nuts/ bolts holding the pump in place, these control the pump timing, mark where the pump is exactly in relation to the plate it's bolted to so you can return it to its original setting if needs be, then loosen the nuts maybe 1/2 to 1 turn each and you should be able to rotate the pump slightly, advancing it will make it noisier but give slightly better performance, retarding it will make it quieter, slightly less performance but IME easier starting from cold with a well worn engine. Too far retarded and it will white smoke.
You only need to move the pump a fraction... You can do this with the engine running if you are sensible, once you are happy nip the nuts back up again
If you are flash you can set the pump timing with a dial test indicator, snap on and seeley used to do kits but this setting would be for standard pump diesel not special brew.
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Last Edit: Nov 16, 2015 21:51:47 GMT by dodgerover
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Nov 16, 2015 22:18:56 GMT
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Also, there are a few other things that affect the advance (at least on VE pumps like the D24 has and at least some XUDs). In theory some more static advance should help with starting and make a bit more power?, but the downside of advance is higher EGTs and more knocking rattling noises. Cant comment for the effect of WVO on required timing as I don't run Veg in either my D24 or my other half's XUD.
Richard
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Nov 16, 2015 23:10:40 GMT
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On most older diesels there are 3 nuts/ bolts holding the pump in place, these control the pump timing, mark where the pump is exactly in relation to the plate it's bolted to so you can return it to its original setting if needs be, then loosen the nuts maybe 1/2 to 1 turn each and you should be able to rotate the pump slightly, advancing it will make it noisier but give slightly better performance, retarding it will make it quieter, slightly less performance but IME easier starting from cold with a well worn engine. Too far retarded and it will white smoke. You only need to move the pump a fraction... You can do this with the engine running if you are sensible, once you are happy nip the nuts back up again If you are flash you can set the pump timing with a dial test indicator, snap on and seeley used to do kits but this setting would be for standard pump diesel not special brew. that's what I thought I'd need to do, as I couldn't see any adjustment on the pulleys themselves. I'll have a look into moving the pump about tomorrow, do you know which way it should be turned to retard it? If not, I'll get the engine warm and go hit and miss with it, I know that the pump has limited adjustment without having the belts off so I'm pretty sure it'll still run and the adjusments should make it obvious.
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Nov 18, 2015 20:20:44 GMT
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off the top of my head i think that pushing the LDA towards the cylinder head will give more advance. theres an awkward bolt with an allen head down by no.6 injector too just to be a pain and a fourth bolt near no.4 injector by where the lines come out of the pump, easy to get to, others you'll see easy. Don't go too mad on advance, it might make it more responsive to drive but it will also increase fuel consumption, EGT and engine wear.
Rich
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Mini update, car is running well. serviced it twice since purchase, have now covered about 6k on chip fat. excluding the travel cost of getting to Ireland for the car, but including the three fuel filters and two extra services, the car has now paid for itself in fuel savings already! have purchased a fuel heater kit now as well, that should go on this month, along with a twin tank setup to allow me to start the car smoothly on diesel, and switch to veg oil once warm
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,339
Club RR Member Number: 84
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Feb 12, 2016 14:20:01 GMT
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ok, going on your last cars, you can't be just using this as an exercise in frugality. I *may* also have read elsewhere about some sneaky goings on, anything you'd like to get off your chest??
TELL ME!
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Feb 14, 2016 23:12:52 GMT
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I'm keeping nice and quiet, I'd be interested to know what you've heard... But as a teaser, an update is coming on the 18th and it's going to be the start of something very big.
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,339
Club RR Member Number: 84
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..I'd be interested to know what you've heard... Only what I stumbled across on the VOC about a spare shell. Some of the other things mentioned there gave me a few ideas what you might be up to. I'm excited about the twist this thread may be about to make
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Forget about Mpg, we all just want to see it going sideways.
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The Millenium Volcon"Get yourself a Volvo if that's what you really want, you might be dead next year. In the meantime, you could be going sideways in a gigantic land barge."
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Feb 15, 2016 22:37:28 GMT
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..I'd be interested to know what you've heard... Only what I stumbled across on the VOC about a spare shell. Some of the other things mentioned there gave me a few ideas what you might be up to. I'm excited about the twist this thread may be about to make you keep quiet now young man. now confirmed update on the 18th around 9pm. no reveal, but it is a tease.
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Feb 15, 2016 22:56:58 GMT
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miniature update: egg crate grille - 17" Steel wheels (ft. not sticking brakes)
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17" steels from what??
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72 MGB GT 88 Daimler Double Six 89 Rover Mini 91 Nissan Figaro 95 Lotus Esprit S4S 18 Discovery
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Feb 16, 2016 17:30:27 GMT
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Peugeot 406 I believe, 5mm spacers for clearance on the front struts, told they're not needed though
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Feb 16, 2016 17:56:43 GMT
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Can you take a pic from the side to show the 17's off?
I've been looking at 17inch steels myself but am struggling to see what they would look like on the car
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The Millenium Volcon"Get yourself a Volvo if that's what you really want, you might be dead next year. In the meantime, you could be going sideways in a gigantic land barge."
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yeah i'll get one tomorrow if I remember!
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Feb 18, 2016 22:43:58 GMT
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Major update: Chapter one: "and then there were two" This one's a runner with a failed head gasket, 2.3 petrol HPT turbo automatic, which at just £102 was a steal with MOT until November. It's a shame, as its a nice car, and with a lot of MOT on it and plenty of service history, but being auto and pretty scruffy and basic spec, it's not going to be missed too much. I'll be using it for many many things, and many reasons. More to come soon.
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