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If at first you don't succeed........
....Don't try skydiving!
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Oct 29, 2015 10:22:23 GMT
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It's not fantastic stuff and really hard to apply neatly and effectively, but it can work. Ideally take the glass or tailgate off so you can lay it flat to make life easier, but obviously that's not always practical.
Before you start, use a razor or something to scrape back the top surface for a couple of millimeters next to the break, to cut through any oxide/insulation layer and allow the paint to get a better connection to the heater line. Clean the area with something alcoholly to get any grease off.
I use thick electrical tape to mask up. Throw the little stencil away, it's useless. If the break is just a thin hairline scrape then you can mask flush with the edges of the demister line, If the break is longer then you'll have to increase the "width" of your repair to improve the conductivity, otherwise the repair won't last. If you have long sections (5mm+) missing then don't even bother.
To make the repair less visible get a good black permanent marker and colour in the area where you'll be applying the conductive paint to, avoiding going over the ends of the demister line you cleaned up - A black mark is a lot less noticeable from outside than the silver paint.
Ideally do this on a warm ish day, apply the paint as best you can. It's hard to get the stuff to go where you want it. Putting a "blob" at one end and spreading it along the line like grout seems to work OK.
Remove the electrical tape you used to mask up fairly soon or you'll end up peeling the repair back off with it. Again colour it all back in with a black marker to make it less visible from inside.
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Oct 29, 2015 11:17:58 GMT
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Thanks cobblers, helpful advice. The breaks seem to be just thin scratches so maybe it's do-able!
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If at first you don't succeed........
....Don't try skydiving!
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Oct 29, 2015 20:49:41 GMT
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I apply it then clean it up either side of the line with a razor
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