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Hi everyone. I have been a long time reader of this forum and finally decided to post some pictures of my car. This is Brian (named by previous owner), I bought him around 5 years ago when I first moved to Australia. Progress has been very slow and not so steady as there have been 2 new jobs, 2 houses,a baby and 4 years of part time study since I took ownership. I will let the pics tell the tale so far but I am hoping to get things moving again now I have a bit more time. My first go at this so here goes........ When first viewed  Inside Tidy and New Carpet  Painted by stevie wonder and got a good run for my money (was in a car port in a rented property so I wanted it tidy )  At this point it moved to my new house and the pushrod power had pushed one last time, about 30psi of compression on each cylinder so engine out and that was it for a while. More updates to follow ![]() |
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1974 mum and dad bought one of these in a base baby blue wagon model. A 1.3 power house. Added extra's zero.
No clock, no lighter no nothing.
Dad picked it up in the morning. On the way to grandma someone did not see us stopping and rear ended us.
The car was written of on the same day as it was picked up with 21 KM's on the clock.
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I would LOVE to find one as nice as that!
Interested in where this goes.
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1974 mum and dad bought one of these in a base baby blue wagon model. A 1.3 power house. Added extra's zero. No clock, no lighter no nothing. Dad picked it up in the morning. On the way to grandma someone did not see us stopping and rear ended us. The car was written of on the same day as it was picked up with 21 KM's on the clock. Amazing how many stories like this people have when I tell them about the car. Here are a few more of it progressing with a black painted grill and quarter bumpers  |
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I would LOVE to find one as nice as that! Interested in where this goes. Thanks for the compliment but it is really not as nice as it looks in the photo's  . In saying that, the chances of finding a cheap,straight, Mk1 3 door are much lower here now than they were a few years ago so I was quite lucky I guess. I was feeling inspired by all this positivity at the weekend so got to work. I finally got my ally sump on the pinto and sealed in place. The baffle plate in the sump required some fettling as it was contacting the pick-up pipe that came with it  A spot of painting too  This is where we are at right now, wheels are a bit too wide but I like the look of it in this picture  |
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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What's not to like? Looks great.
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Hi all, Another update on the escort for you. As I said before, with everything happening in the wrong order through circumstances of life, the plan was to finish the engine and work on the under bonnet area of the car. With the engine finally together and on the stand, I have been able to start making progress......  I spent the weekend before last wrestling the exhaust over the back axle and removing the gearbox. Turns out I have a very early box where the bell housing and box are all one casting. I am going to need to change this as I want to go to full RS 2000 spec so I will need the RS bell housing on a later box.Anyway, this has made room to start on the AVO mods. I started with the slam panel/radiator last weekend   |
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All 1.3 gearboxes have cast in bell housings. You need a type E gearbox off a pinto engine for separate bellhousing. Nice car by the way.
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MK2VR6
Posted a lot
Mk2 Golf GTi 90 Spec
Posts: 3,328
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Jun 28, 2016 10:56:15 GMT
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Stunnnnnning. Looks lovely in white - pretty much the perfect colour for a mk1. Can't believe I'm saying it, but I agree that the steels actually look a little too wide; however, better looking than standard. I guess you bought it at the right time - I enquired with a colleague who lives in Oz around 12 months ago about looking out for a tidy mk1 to ship to UK shores, and he reckoned that they were few and far between, and usually with a silly price tag. Unless he was having me on, I guess your prices have started to catch up with the nutty UK ones?
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Jun 28, 2016 12:11:23 GMT
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Or fit a type 9 5 speed from a sierra/ Granada / capri, from memory they are pretty much a straight swap for the type E box, I also seem to remember there were two types of trans tunnel the autos and ones with the type E had the larger one, the others a smaller one you will probably need to modify yours.
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Jun 28, 2016 16:17:20 GMT
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The Escort with the type E gearbox used a standard tunnel but you need to use the aluminium bell housings from an RS2000 as it's a bit smaller than the cast making fitting easier) and also the rear mount uses a couple of aluminium blocks to space the mount down and back.
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All 1.3 gearboxes have cast in bell housings. You need a type E gearbox off a pinto engine for separate bellhousing. Nice car by the way. Thank you, I didn't know that. I do have a friend that stripped a MK2 1.6 to use the drive line for a kit car. He has agreed to swap with me as he isn't bothered about the bell housing so I will hopefully get the box and switch the housing. Hoping to get hold a single piece prop shaft too. |
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Stunnnnnning. Looks lovely in white - pretty much the perfect colour for a mk1. Can't believe I'm saying it, but I agree that the steels actually look a little too wide; however, better looking than standard. I guess you bought it at the right time - I enquired with a colleague who lives in Oz around 12 months ago about looking out for a tidy mk1 to ship to UK shores, and he reckoned that they were few and far between, and usually with a silly price tag. Unless he was having me on, I guess your prices have started to catch up with the nutty UK ones? Thanks for the nice compliments. Its actually Focus RS frozen white as I thought it might be easier to go a bit more modern. Up close, the spray job is actually terrible but it will do for now. The steels are 7 inches wide which is too wide for standard arches ( which I want to keep ). About 4 years ago, I had a set of banded steels sent over from the UK that are 6 inches wide and they cost a fortune. When I saw these come up locally for not much money, I couldn't resist buying them to roll around on while I work on it. Your friend is not having you on. I paid $2k for this in 2010 registered and driving ( no MOT's or roadworthy tests in Western Australia ). An unregistered rolling shell would probably cost 3 imes that now. |
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Or fit a type 9 5 speed from a sierra/ Granada / capri, from memory they are pretty much a straight swap for the type E box, I also seem to remember there were two types of trans tunnel the autos and ones with the type E had the larger one, the others a smaller one you will probably need to modify yours. Would be nice, but there aren't many of these hanging around in Western Australia. Its a big investment to make from overseas at this stage so I think its something that can come much later. I think I should be ok with the RS bellhousing ? The ones at Burton power are now quick release and will also fit a type 9 making the change easier at a later date. |
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The Escort with the type E gearbox used a standard tunnel but you need to use the aluminium bell housings from an RS2000 as it's a bit smaller than the cast making fitting easier) and also the rear mount uses a couple of aluminium blocks to space the mount down and back. This is my understanding too. I have heard of come people keeping the standard housing an bashing the tunnel to make it fit but I want to do it to the proper spec. I did wonder what the mount blocks were for, do you know if these are still needed if you use one of Burton's universal gearbox mounts ? |
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The Escort with the type E gearbox used a standard tunnel but you need to use the aluminium bell housings from an RS2000 as it's a bit smaller than the cast making fitting easier) and also the rear mount uses a couple of aluminium blocks to space the mount down and back. This is my understanding too. I have heard of come people keeping the standard housing an bashing the tunnel to make it fit but I want to do it to the proper spec. I did wonder what the mount blocks were for, do you know if these are still needed if you use one of Burton's universal gearbox mounts ? A bit of inch box, drilled through, will do the job perfectly well if you need the spacer blocks, but will also mean you don't need to buy any if you don't need them. Spray them silver and no-one's the wiser. |
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This is my understanding too. I have heard of come people keeping the standard housing an bashing the tunnel to make it fit but I want to do it to the proper spec. I did wonder what the mount blocks were for, do you know if these are still needed if you use one of Burton's universal gearbox mounts ? A bit of inch box, drilled through, will do the job perfectly well if you need the spacer blocks, but will also mean you don't need to buy any if you don't need them. Spray them silver and no-one's the wiser. I was planning on getting the cross member and mounts and getting the engine and box all assembled on it and and on a trolley so I can wheel it under the car then hoist up into position. This looks to be the easiest way and I guess I can see about the blocks then ? |
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A further update, I decided to remove the front suspension and rack while I was there so I can clean up under the bonnet properly  When I came to drop out the cross member, I noticed a small gap on one side between the lip on the cross member and the inner wing which makes me think it may have had a hit at some point. Does anyone have any thoughts on upgrading to the world cup cross member ?  Much better access for cleaning and painting now  |
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Unless you like lots of noise and rattles do NOT fit a world cup cross member.
They are a competition part.
Never designed for road cars.
Those crossmembers like you have are very very tough. Just wack the bends back out with a hammer before you paint it.
If you don't want to buy alloy engine mounting brackets, just use the original steel ones and use Land Rover hockey puck mounts instead.
Good bit stiffer without the harshness of the wcxm.
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Unless you like lots of noise and rattles do NOT fit a world cup cross member. They are a competition part. Never designed for road cars. Those crossmembers like you have are very very tough. Just wack the bends back out with a hammer before you paint it. If you don't want to buy alloy engine mounting brackets, just use the original steel ones and use Land Rover hockey puck mounts instead. Good bit stiffer without the harshness of the wcxm. Exactly what I needed, thanks. I know Burton's warn about it but I have always been an 80's ford person so am learning as I go on the Mk1 and don't know anyone who has tried one. I do already have the mounts for the pinto that will go on this cross member so decision made.Thanks quickrack1, |
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. In saying that, the chances of finding a cheap,straight, Mk1 3 door are much lower here now than they were a few years ago so I was quite lucky I guess. I was feeling inspired by all this positivity at the weekend so got to work.
