BT
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,772
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Mar 27, 2016 14:05:28 GMT
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Hello Retro Rides. I did have a search through the forum prior to posting this, I managed to find a thread for the earlier MG metro, but not the Rover metro. I am looking at another project, but a short term kind of job. Nothing too involving, just a little bit of summer fun. I am a total mini nut, I love them, but their prices are going up to a point where they are getting a little silly which is what has made me start looking elsewhere. Now for some reason I got looking online last night and came across the trusty Rover Metro or the 100 of the same era, I think they are the same thing aren't they? Anyway, they seem to be incredibly cheap, I suspect the demand for them isn't overly high, and with the stupidly low scrap rate at the minute has resulted in some pretty cheap examples being advertised for sale. These seem to be an ideal candidate for a "budget" style project, which is exactly what I want. So to those of you who have owned them, or know more about the, what makes them cool? There has to be something, every vehicle has its own individual characteristic that stands it apart from the rest. Another reason for starting this thread is because I was hoping that maybe some of you have some interesting examples stashed away somewhere. Here are a couple I have found. This car used to be on another forum I used and at the time I loved it, I still like it a lot now, seems a perfect example of less is more. I think the colour is a winner as well, Tahiti Blue, always wanted a sportspack mini in this colour years ago when they were semi affordable. And why I want one Now looking from a potential project car point of view it would seem to me as though they have got a lot going for them. Earlier ones will qualify for classic insurance which is handy. Parts seem to be affordable and readily available, it seems as though parts from later models can me used, like brakes, engines and so on, PCD seems to be a common size so wheel choice should be plentiful, 13" sticky tyres are readily available and affordable, there is always a load of rovers/mgs in scrap yards so parts should surely be easily sourced. I understand they are prone to rot in the rear arches but replacement panels appear to be super affordable and readily available, plus I am used to minis, so I don't think there is much worse! So please share any impressive photographs and share any input you may have. Can these little things actually be any good?
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mikeymk
Part of things
'85 Polo Coupe S 1.6 16v
Posts: 931
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Mar 27, 2016 15:25:43 GMT
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They were mostly killed by copious amounts of rust in the rear end. Your first search will be for one with it's original rear arches, although, replacements will probably be better than Rover's effort.
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BT
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,772
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Mar 27, 2016 15:33:42 GMT
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Having looked a lot of them do have atrocious rear arches, some not as bad as others but its just a matter of time it seems, which I suspect has travelled further inboard significantly. My brief searches show that there are still some whole rear quarter panels available for not a lot of money. Chop the old one out, all associated areas, repair and then replace, I am hopeful that a decent amount of rust preventative treatment should make them last a bit longer than the OEM Rover equivalent.
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Mar 27, 2016 15:39:00 GMT
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I bought a D reg / 6 month old Austin Metro City for my wife and when they came out debated changing it for a new Rover Metro version. Most of the failings that the old model had seemed to have been sorted on the Rover and the 1.1 K Series with matching gearbox a lot nicer than the old A Series. OK this is a long time ago on a newish / brand new car comparison but still feel the Rover Metro is worth considering.
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Mar 27, 2016 17:15:36 GMT
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It wasn't just the rear arches, they rot everywhere. My mate used to love them, had around ten different models with all engine variations in the early 00's and most were rotten even back then.
He had a 1.1s Gti replica as his first car, he used to thrash the knackers off it, jump bridges and all sorts being a typical 17 year old. Took it for an mot when it expired and must have had the longest failure sheet I've seen to this day. It' was about four pages long mostly due to rust, and the scary part was the front seats and subframes were pretty much only held in by hopes and prayers. I reckon the slightest crash and the car would of turned to dust.
My nan also had a H plate from new, always kept clean and in a heated garage, only covered 23k miles in nearly 20 years and even stay started bubbling the rear arches.
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BT
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,772
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Mar 27, 2016 17:35:59 GMT
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My nan also had a H plate from new, always kept clean and in a heated garage, only covered 23k miles in nearly 20 years and even stay started bubbling the rear arches. There is one advertised at the moment at 9,900 miles which has bubbled rear arches.
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maxlee
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,200
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Mar 27, 2016 19:32:22 GMT
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that 1st red one is cool
this video made me smile
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Mar 27, 2016 19:35:52 GMT
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The one I bought had a new passenger side door at 4-5 years old as rotted so bad. At same time main agent changed front and rear valances. Rear wheel arches were rot free though - but to be fair I pressure washed them most weeks as mud traps. I should add it failed it's first MOT at 3 years old and under 10,000 miles / FSH on quite a number of things that were basically down to poor build quality.
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Ryannn
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,421
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Mar 27, 2016 19:52:21 GMT
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I'm handing mine over to its new owner soon. It's my second one but I only had it for a couple of months whilst I was between cars.
As above, check the rear arches. The windscreens like to leak and rot the floors out. Trim is starting to become hard to get, there just aren't as many knocking around as there used to be!
On the plus side, 99.9% of K-Series engines fit, I was planning on dropping a 1.8 in mine if I was keeping it. Popular mods include upgrading to MGF/TF suspension.
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Last Edit: Mar 28, 2016 8:39:42 GMT by Ryannn
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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Mar 27, 2016 22:10:14 GMT
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My father in law had one which I welded up. The arches were bad but it also went along the edges of the floor where it met the sills. I was going to cut the rear arches off and fit Metro Turbo arches on it just at the back but he got a local body repair place to stick some new metal ones onto it badly. When they started going rusty it was too bad to do anything with then unfortunately.
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Mar 27, 2016 23:15:37 GMT
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Awesome cars, I love them. I'm currently building a MK3 van using a rotten mk2 donor van and a mint early mk3 base model non-sunroof shell. Got an L-series (2.0 diesel) mocked-up on a TF front subframe which will be getting plonked in once I've figured how to lower the engine so I don't have to lift the bonnet but still let me run low. I've had all the other common builds so thought the diesel would be something different.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,091
Club RR Member Number: 146
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The Rover Metro vulgalour
@vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member 146
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In every conceivable way, the Metro is better than the Mini. That's because it had to be. The Rover versions come with more toys than the earlier Austin versions and, arguably, are of a better quality all round. As has already been mentioned, rear arches, sill ends and rear subframe areas all rust but that's true of just about any hatchback of the same era, most of the really bad ones are gone now so providing you buy on condition you should be good to go. Probably my favourite Rover 100 is this one. It's absolutely right. In a similar vein is this one. Aesthetically you don't need to do much. Lower it and you're done really. Stick some different wheels on, make it spotless, do engine things if you want but they don't really need it, they're fun straight out of the box (providing it's not an auto which can be a bit sluggish). I'm fairly certain that 100s are on 4x3.75" (or 4x95.25mm in metric, I think) where earlier metros are same as Mini which is 4x4", I think. Someone will be along shortly to confirm/deny this. Anyway, here's some other interesting Rover 100s.
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Ryannn
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,421
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Austins use Mini pcd, 4x101 Rovers use Triumph pcd, 4x95.something, the same as an MGF, maestro etc
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BT
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,772
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Mar 28, 2016 10:22:07 GMT
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Thanks very much for all of the replies chaps, I am on my phone now so it's always a struggle to reply efficiently.
Thanks very much for all of the extra info, that black one on THs looks fantastic, the metro seems to very much be a "less is more".
My struggle at the minute is one that isn't totally rotten, I'm sure searches will prevail.
I have limited to no rover/mg knowledge. However the k series conversion into the classic mini is very popular and I did a lot of research with the intentions of installi one into a mini, one commonly used route is a metro frame bolted into the mini with the 1.8 VVC engine. From what I understood this for straight into the metro frame, I suppose this would be mated with the R56 box as allowed to the PG1 (due to size?) utilising the standard shafts and a RAVE cd/manual should contain all that is required for the loom conversion.
I assume brakes are interchangeable? Is the suspension a hydro elastic based system? So can be lowered by releasing fluid or gas? Is it possible to update the dampers or such to improve handling?
Thanks again for all of the help and info.
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Ryannn
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,421
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Mar 28, 2016 11:00:39 GMT
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If you know you'll want to drop a VVC in, save yourself some hassle and buy a Rover 100 rather than a Metro. 100's are MPi and are much easier to convert. As far as dropping the suspension goes, you can let the fluid out yes, but it will impact the ride more than just cutting the sprngs on a normal car. You could get hold of MGTF subframes/suspension and go down that route instead.
Gearbox wise, theres tonnes of info/builds on the MetroPower facebook page, so much so that I can't even remeber which flywheel/gearbox setup is best.
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qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,410
Club RR Member Number: 52
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The Rover Metro qwerty
@qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member 52
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Mar 28, 2016 12:11:27 GMT
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The suspension can be uprated and lowered with the correct lowering links which stop the need for draining fluid and adding some GTI shocks.
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BT
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,772
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Mar 28, 2016 12:18:32 GMT
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Thanks even more chaps, I didn't realise the metro was SPI and the 100 was MPI. I had a quick read on metro power and the list of parts required to VVC is minimal in comparison to the SPI.
I know there is a lot of choice in the am series gearboxes, simply from the mini chaps using them, I think the BRM even came with a factory fitted LSD.
I have found a pretty clean looking car, rear arches look very good for a £400, however it is a diesel, but if a complete 160 VVC car is bought, everything required for the conversion should be there, plus it's a good chance to see the engine running, and also a chance to recoup some costs with breaking larger items.
Thanks again chaps.
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Mar 28, 2016 12:29:45 GMT
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Cracking little cars, just be aware they do rust. The 1.1 is a screamer of an engine and being a K, you can lob all of them in (1.8VVC/Turbos are quite good fun in 650kg...). Wheels are Triumph PCD which means most Triumphs, Marina, Ital, Maestro, Montego, MGF/TF wheels will fit but remember the arches are restricted in size. They are also tardis-like inside with the seats down. I bought a 1.1 Kensington which was en route to the scrapyard six years ago for £50 for spares; it's still going strong and had new rear arches and fuel tank this year, next project is either rebuild the engine or swap it out for a bit more poke. Have a good poke around and if you find a good one, grab it!
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Rover Metro - The TARDIS - brake problems.....Stored Rover 75 - Barge MGZTT Cdti 160+ - Winter Hack and Audi botherer... MGF - The Golden Shot...Stored Project Minion........ Can you see the theme?
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BT
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,772
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Mar 29, 2016 16:32:06 GMT
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that 1st red one is cool this video made me smile This it why I want one, they seem to be an insanely capable car for not a huge amount of money. Through my reading and research I have found the following build thread which was an interesting read. Build thread here. retrorides.proboards.com/thread/129613Then I found this one which is also shown earlier in the thread but in black. I have managed to find an ascot quite local in the purple colour that was breaking for spares but the seller has said he will part with the remainder of the car (only thing gone is the front bumper which seems easily sourced and the parcel shelf, which will be going in the tip anyway). Hoping to have a look at it and assess the rear arch situation. It is also the 100, so hopefully the 160 swap will be simple enough. Are the looms on the 100 to 160 or vvc engines a plug and play kind of deal or is it a splicing job?
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mgmrw
Part of things
Posts: 701
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Mar 29, 2016 19:55:08 GMT
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You lot are evil. For the last 12 months I've been looking at my rarely used ,220 GTI, the fact it won't fit down the driveway etc... And could sell for decent £££.
I've talked myself out of a vvc metro about once a day for that whole period.
Now. I'm back looking again. And designing a 160vvc tro track car in my head.
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