|
|
|
Dear wise people. I was travelling in a friends Rover V8 on the weekend. If started from cold, it would fire promptly and settle to a good idle. However if the car has been running for a while and hot, it has problems restarting.
If switched off and immediately back on, it will run. However if it sits for 5 to 10 minutes, and you attempt to restart it, lots of cranking and it wont start. Eventually playing with the throttle and a bit of luck and it will fire, but will then run lumpy for a few miles.
Are there any common causes?
|
|
|
|
jamesv
Part of things
Posts: 207
|
|
|
Sounds like the symptoms of fuel vaporization to me, might be worth looking at some heat shielding under the carbs?
Basically the fuel boils in the carbs and evaporates before it has a chance to get into the engine, by the time 5 -10 mins has gone, the engine has cooled enough to let it restart.
My old man has a Ducati which suffers horrifically with it in hot weather, though that is injected.
|
|
James, Mk1 Golf 16v ITB'd, RS's, TT interior - in bits Affalterbach tweaked CLK - commuter mobile And a couple of GSXR's
|
|
alecf
Part of things
Posts: 424
|
|
|
My old 3.5 on rebuilt twin St's did that in summer it was in an offroad range rover and would be a curse word to start when hot.
As said heat Sheild is the only way
|
|
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
|
What kind of fuel pump is it on? Does he wait for it to "prime"?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
It's the standard in tank pump, no idea about waiting to prime. If he starts it hot he has half throttle. We also tried it no throttle but it didn't make much difference.
|
|
|
|
Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,697
Club RR Member Number: 39
|
|
|
It may also be worthwhile checking the movement of the pistons to make sure that they lift from closed easily when hot and that they are not sticking. Make sure that all of the breathers on the carb are free and not kinked or blocked.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2016 14:14:12 GMT
|
to alleviate the hot start problems on later SD1's they fitted a return pipe, basically the fuel line goes to one carb then the other then through a restrictor (looks about 1mm from memory) back to the tank.
I have not used it on my TR7v8 conversion and don't have any problems but that said I do run on LPG 99% of the time anyway.
|
|
|
|
hario
Part of things
S202 C300STD
Posts: 421
|
|
Jun 16, 2016 12:29:11 GMT
|
Is there oil in the dash pots?
Same issue with minis, I blanked off the coolant fittings on the inlet manifold and looped the pipes to remove the 'inlet heating'.
Or like kevins says making a return type fuel supply system would stop fuel boiling in the carbs (technically it would prime them afterwards rather).
|
|
*S202 C300TD Wagon* Installed: OM606 & 722.6, Evo6 IC, S600AMG callipers & 345mm rotors. No catz. Leatherish seats.. Rust.. Future: DIY manifolds & turbo compound build. Built IP, & some kind of software. Less rust..
|
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2016 13:45:43 GMT
|
I have had problems in hot weather with my V8 on both the 3500 and SD1 . Bad starting due to fuel vaporisation
|
|
|
|