Reliant Scimitar GTE-tell me what you know...

[Maxxxer]

As i mentioned over on the 2017 resolution thread, I'm planning on looking for one of these in the coming months, having been inspired of a few already on here.

I'm aiming for a rough and ready 5 or 6, requiring tlc, and i felt this would be a good place to ask ifanyone has any tips.

So far i know;

- fibreglass body, steel chassis (galvanised in later cars)
- Ford engined (V6 3.0 essex, or 2.9 cologne, followed by the 2.9 granada unit (what is the 2.0 lump like?)
- Some parts are rare as hens teeth, most bits are obtainable thankully

Are there any particular rot spots to look out for?
What PCD are the wheels (presumably Ford fitment?)
Are the engines tunable at all of would a transplant be a better option?

Anything else useful would be great.....

And to make it a bit less wordy, have some pics stolen from another thread...

[vitessetony]

outriggers and pre galvanized chassis' rust for fun at the very mention of any sort of moisture, ask me how I know........ I bought a 'mint' se5a sight unseen on the word of the previous owner. Lesson learned.

[penski]

4x114.3 so readily available modern and retro loveliness!

*n

[chris y]

I think there is so much difference in size you should work out whether a 5 or a 6 is for you.

I'd call the 5 a small sporty car and the 6 a large car, others may well disagree.

I knew I wanted a 6 and bought one, it was great but I stupidly sold it after a year.

Unless you want major work buy based on the chassis, ideally maybe an older restoration where the chassis is clearly rust free but the rest of it needs work.
I think only the 6b had a galvanised chassis from the factory and they are worth a lot more.

I think they are great cars and easy to use daily. I regret selling mine but needed the money at the time. It went to France, never seen it since.

[hopeso]

There is a Scimitar forum which, although I haven't been on it for a while, is a great source of information.

I bought a SE5A in rough and ready condition. It had a MOT but needed work. Engine and running gear is easy worked on but it drove and handled like an old car. The body work is expensive and time consuming to put right and needs to be done properly if it is to last.

I never really got on with it, I have a 1800ti SS1 which is far more fun and feels quite modern in comparison, so sold it on.

Try the forum and buy the best car you can afford.

[rbs]

You've just missed this one.



www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RELIANT-SCIMITAR-BLUE-/262732585739?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=GGSFfFnNpDjunTObmrDj96yNTcI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

[Rob M]

Dec 30, 2016 13:38:31 GMT penski said:

4x114.3 so readily available modern and retro loveliness!

*n

That's half right.
The Scimitar runs an ET of about zero or there abouts. That means bolt ons will have to be thought out and spacers/adaptors used. The 240/260Z range is probably as close to wheel interchangeability as you will find.
All things are possible with some thought.
Ive had 6 Scimitars, all but one were 6As and, personally the 6 is better to live with than the 5A if you are tall and broad with big feet.........
Rust isn't the issue but access to the rusty sections can be. Answer? You carefully cut out the fibreglass sections that are in the way, weld then glass back in the cut out sections. Really, it does work.
Lowering is possible, I had a set of AVO adjustables on one of mine and it was low, looked good too.
Engines? Everybody loves to give the Essex lump a good kicking but it really suits the Scimitar and its no slouch. The Auto felt, to me, like I was driving a lazy V8, the manual is more for driving 'briskly' and better fuel consumption which, to be fair, with overdrive I found very respectable.
Loads of engines have been transplanted into both 5s and 6s, obviously the Essex is more tuneable than the Cologne.
Very few parts are 'as rare as hens teeth' stuff like 5 series quarter light rubbers are ( IIRC) but the major mechanical stuff is Triumph, Ford and the like, I found parts cheap, plentiful and easy to buy.
Fibreglass can craze or crack, all repairable and, for me, better than having to weld bodywork!
Superb cars, distinctive, durable, good looking, a sports car/saloon/Estate rolled into one.
I'm biased tho.
Better advice is waiting on the Scimweb forum.

[penski]

Dec 30, 2016 23:24:04 GMT Rob M said:

Dec 30, 2016 13:38:31 GMT penski said:

4x114.3 so readily available modern and retro loveliness!

*n

That's half right.

Nope, it's fully correct; spacers are both affordable and readily available, as are wheels in the correct offset.

*n

[scimjim]

The Reliant never had the 2.9 - just the 3.0 Essex or 2.8 Cologne (both carb, never injection). The Middlebridge had the 2.9i but is well out of your price bracket based on your OP. Only the last few 6b and GTC were galv (but all Middlebridge were). Essex gets expensive to tune beyond around 190BHP, turbos and SC have been done though. Common swap was the rover V8, newer swaps are Lexus V8, GM V6, couple of diesels, LS has been done, etc.

Chassis only generally rust at the easily replaceable extremities (obviously if it's been in a field for 30 years any car will be toast, so if the main chassis rails have holes, walk away) - front outriggers, side rails (inc B post and seat belt mounting points) and rear diagonals. If the A posts are gone it can start to get awkward (check for door drop) and the trailing arm mounts on the axles can corrode if the drain holes haven't been cleared out.

Paint and bespoke interior trim are no more expensive than any other car to fix - but GRP and low volume production puts the uneducated off.

Any detailed questions - drop me a PM



Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), 1400 SS1 (G97), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 1300 SS1, 3 x 1600 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre.
Chief mechanic for: SE6a (Katrina), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick), 1600/K series SS1 (Megan), Ti SS1 (snotty), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.

[Maxxxer]

Thanks for all your input!

I didnt realise there was so much difference in size between the 5 & 6; i knew the 6 was a bit longer, but I'll have to look into that a bit more.

Although there is the option of the SS1, Ive never really been a fan of the styling. Granted I could get an SST but then thats getting a bit too new for me (plus I've just sold a 2 seater convertible in the Midget, and I fancy something different...)

Good idea with cutting out the fibreglass to access welding though-hadn't thought of that, and it would be muxh easier than removing the whole shell!

I've signed up to Scimitarweb (albeit is as Max3er as Maxxxer is not allowed!) so Ill have a nosey over there and see what info I can glean. I've been keeping an eye on the for sale section quite a bit of late....

I think it will be a case of playing the waiting game until the right one comes along then; I can deal with the bodywork, so I just need to find one with a solid chassis.

Cheers chaps (and chapesses)!

[Rob M]

Dec 31, 2016 1:06:48 GMT penski said:

Dec 30, 2016 23:24:04 GMT Rob M said:

That's half right.

Nope, it's fully correct; spacers are both affordable and readily available, as are wheels in the correct offset.

*n

With respect, you made a post which gave the OP the impression that, because of the PCD, there would be a whole plethora of wheels out there to choose from which he could just go out and buy and bolt on.
Why do you think so many Scimitars still run standard Woofies/Steels and 'Princess Anne' jobbies?
Yes, you can get wheels for them but you have to consider spacing ( ive got some I never got round to using in the garage), some J fitments ( Ive got 240z rims ..ditto, the garage) run ETs of around 38 ( IIRC?) which means big spacers and longer studs.
Your post neither detailed the probability of such spacers and studs which COULD make aftermarket and other makes wheels 'readily available' and bolt on.
There are way fewer cars out there with the same offset as the Scimitar, most of us owners/ex owners have worn that trodden path over and over.
We haven't even touched on the centre bore.
Yes, you were half right, the PCD was correct, the assumption that the OP has some sort of Santas Grotto of wheel choice in standard ET isn't. Yes, there are off the shelf wheels but nowhere near the choice alluded to.
As I said, anything is possible with some thought.