samta22
Club Retro Rides Member
Stuck in once more...
Posts: 1,275
Club RR Member Number: 32
|
Body & Paint Threadsamta22
@samta22
Club Retro Rides Member 32
|
|
Anyone got any recommendations on a good paint stripper, Bonnet on my TR7 is looking like crazy paving and given I have time on my hands it looks like the ideal time to strip an paint it, as far as I can make out it is the original TPA paint, a second coat of 2 pack then a final coat of cellulose. Can highly recommend Starchem Synstrip - has worked brilliantly in what I've given it so far: #
|
|
'37 Austin 7 '56 Austin A35 '58 Austin A35 '65 Triumph Herald 12/50 '69 MGB GT '74 MGB GT V8'73 TA22 Toyota Celica restoration'95 Mercedes SL320 '04 MGTF 135 'Cool Blue' (Mrs' Baby) '05 Land Rover Discovery 3 V8 '67 Abarth 595 (Mrs' runabout) '18 Disco V
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anyone got any recommendations on a good paint stripper, Bonnet on my TR7 is looking like crazy paving and given I have time on my hands it looks like the ideal time to strip an paint it, as far as I can make out it is the original TPA paint, a second coat of 2 pack then a final coat of cellulose. Has Sam mentioned above Synstrip is what I use in the workshop all the time - kept in stock its the only one that works effectively I took 15 layers / 65 years of paint off this bonnet in 3 hits with it Top tip (apart from either removing the bonnet off the car or sheeting everything over in polythene) is to use a course wire wool dipped in stripper has you get to bare metal - this prevents creating score marks in the panel from the scraper - decent gloves / marigolds are well recommended
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 9, 2020 20:43:21 GMT by Deleted
|
|
|
|
|
do you put it on and cover the car with plastic? Thats what ive done with that stuff to stop it drying out...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
do you put it on and cover the car with plastic? Thats what ive done with that stuff to stop it drying out... I know some that do - I don't - just put it on wet / thickly - wait 45 mins and off it comes - leave it to start to dry and it's a pain to remove
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sounds like thats the stuff then, thd bonnet will come off, it's only held on witg 5 bolts. First though I have a few otherc areas to go over,about 10 years ago I touched up a number of small areas of damage, using the same aerosol primer I had used for years, unfortunately they had changed their formulation to a low voc mixture, after about 6 months it started crazing and it has just got worse over time, these should just need flatting back below the primer and re-doing, there's also a couple of horizontal areas where something has etched into the surface leaving pin holes, objective is something which looks ok from 6 feet away so not going too mad.
|
|
|
|
gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
|
Body & Paint Threadgryphon
@gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member 157
|
Apr 10, 2020 12:20:41 GMT
|
A friend bought a delorian that had been painted black from new and has been stripping it over the last month or so. He found Peelaway 7 worked really well for what looked like cellulose. Not sure it's any good for you but it goes on as a skin safe putty that you spread over the panel, leave it covered in clingfilm for a couple of days, then (on the delorian) a plastic scraper took it straight down to bare metal. All layers at once and it came off in long strips with no messy chemicals involved.
He was very impressed by it. Not cheap stuff though, cost him about £300 to do the full car.
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 10, 2020 12:29:53 GMT by gryphon
|
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2020 21:38:53 GMT
|
i asked about priming the mini before i painted the underside, and i went for some spray can etch. now ive also used it on some of the top of the car, and when ive put filler over it, it softens the primer, and falls off.
So is the only answer to use 2k epoxy?
also why don't people use read oxide anymore? thanks
|
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2020 22:19:10 GMT
|
A friend bought a delorian that had been painted black from new and has been stripping it over the last month or so. He found Peelaway 7 worked really well for what looked like cellulose. Not sure it's any good for you but it goes on as a skin safe putty that you spread over the panel, leave it covered in clingfilm for a couple of days, then (on the delorian) a plastic scraper took it straight down to bare metal. All layers at once and it came off in long strips with no messy chemicals involved.
He was very impressed by it. Not cheap stuff though, cost him about £300 to do the full car. This is known has a poultice stripper - commonly utilised on plaster & stone work - I wouldn't be using it on something automotive that I was going to paint over though - its very strong in alkaline and should be neutralised upon completion
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 10, 2020 22:19:31 GMT by Deleted
|
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2020 22:26:17 GMT
|
i asked about priming the mini before i painted the underside, and i went for some spray can etch. now ive also used it on some of the top of the car, and when ive put filler over it, it softens the primer, and falls off. So is the only answer to use 2k epoxy? also why don't people use read oxide anymore? thanks Some primers are not compatible with etching primers even some of the 2 pack primers (especially the very high build spraying putties) - boring has it is - its always a good idea to read the full product spec / data sheets for the product compatibility Red oxide - not really used in the automotive industry any more because although it protective as a primer its moisture absorbent - the 2 pack primers are so much more advanced
|
|
|
|
|
Body & Paint Threadballbagbagins
@ballbagbagins
Club Retro Rides Member 164
|
Apr 11, 2020 17:42:32 GMT
|
Hello, i'd like some advice on one quite significant bit of ugliness on my partners car please. It's a 04 yaris we've had for the last 3 years, it's used to drive to and from the train station during the week and maybe a trip to the local ships at the weekend. Mechanically it's fine and doesn't owe us anything but I'd really like to keep it on the road for however long it's safe to do so. This is the worse bit of metal on the whole car. This is the offside edge of the wheel arch. And this is that same section but from underneather In the cupboard I have Vactan, Bonda Rust Primer, brushable seam sealer and tetrosyl stone chip in aerosol form. I have a grinder and no welder as I can't weld. 1) Can I do anything with the above products to slow the rot down? 2) Can I do anything on the drive with other products to slow the rot down? 3) Should I pay a competent person to do some cutting and welding? Any advice greatly appreciated Pete
|
|
|
|
|
|
Body & Paint Threadballbagbagins
@ballbagbagins
Club Retro Rides Member 164
|
Apr 11, 2020 17:45:21 GMT
|
Should add, there is a clear piece of adhesive material stuck on the body which is shown on both images. I presume was to limit any damage from stonechips. The same piece of material is on the nearside of the car also.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 11, 2020 18:38:39 GMT
|
Firstly - number 3 is the answer - underneath that original stone chip you are going to find some perforated metal - nothing stopping you from getting it cleaned back first then off for welding - I doubt that you are going to have a huge bill for the welding - its quite localised but its good that you have caught it at this stage - get the welder to cut the perforated steel out & plate it up - nothing stopping you from completing the rest of the job - may require a skim of filler to true the panel up over the repaired areas - you have the products in the cupboard that you list which are all usable - once you have applied the stone chip (prime the area first) you might want to consider applying a aerosol primer and then a colour coat over that to make it look presentable
Post up any further questions that you may have and I will get back to you - Chris
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 11, 2020 18:40:17 GMT by Deleted
|
|
|
Body & Paint Threadballbagbagins
@ballbagbagins
Club Retro Rides Member 164
|
Apr 11, 2020 19:01:22 GMT
|
Firstly - number 3 is the answer - underneath that original stone chip you are going to find some perforated metal - nothing stopping you from getting it cleaned back first then off for welding - I doubt that you are going to have a huge bill for the welding - its quite localised but its good that you have caught it at this stage - get the welder to cut the perforated steel out & plate it up - nothing stopping you from completing the rest of the job - may require a skim of filler to true the panel up over the repaired areas - you have the products in the cupboard that you list which are all usable - once you have applied the stone chip (prime the area first) you might want to consider applying a aerosol primer and then a colour coat over that to make it look presentable Post up any further questions that you may have and I will get back to you - Chris Thanks Chris, very helpful as always.
|
|
|
|
gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 330
Club RR Member Number: 157
|
Body & Paint Threadgryphon
@gryphon
Club Retro Rides Member 157
|
Apr 11, 2020 21:05:07 GMT
|
This is known has a poultice stripper - commonly utilised on plaster & stone work - I wouldn't be using it on something automotive that I was going to paint over though - its very strong in alkaline and should be neutralised upon completion Thank you! I suspect you've saved me some future pain there.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2020 15:16:15 GMT
|
thanks for the above advice again mate... I'm doing the mini and the quarter panels have distorted, I'm not good with filler, but i have started to knock them in a bit and fill them. Now, the problem maybe is that the thickness of the filler maybe 3/8" in places at a guess, and the panel will still bow in but i recon ill have to live with the bow... Now, the filler ive used is upol easy sand, is this a bodge, or should i carry on? thanks
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 15, 2020 15:21:18 GMT by DarrenW
|
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2020 15:48:54 GMT
|
thanks for the above advice again mate... I'm doing the mini and the quarter panels have distorted, I'm not good with filler, but i have started to knock them in a bit and fill them. Now, the problem maybe is that the thickness of the filler maybe 3/8" in places at a guess, and the panel will still bow in but i recon ill have to live with the bow... Now, the filler ive used is upol easy sand, is this a bodge, or should i carry on? thanks Not particularly a bodge providing the repair / metal behind it is sound - it takes many years of experience to obtain the skills in order to true panels within a fine tolerance - especially when the panel has been distorted by welded repairs and is difficult to access to true up - if you run a straight edge in a vertical & horizontal position on the flat areas of the repair areas it should indicate any inward or outward panel deviation which you can mark up - if you skim these areas up - come out further from the repair area with your filler then sand back with a block you should get reasonably straight repair - don't knock yourself either - let me assure you - you are good with filler but you just don't know it yet Post up any further issues of if you are struggling and I shall try to advise further - Chris
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 15, 2020 15:50:38 GMT by Deleted
|
|
|
Body & Paint Threadballbagbagins
@ballbagbagins
Club Retro Rides Member 164
|
Apr 15, 2020 17:41:25 GMT
|
I'm back with more Yaris woes. This rust is bendy where the ground wire connects to the body. Both suspension turrets are the same. Any ideas how much the welding for this in the engine bay and that on the rear arch would be?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2020 18:25:37 GMT
|
I'm back with more Yaris woes. This rust is bendy where the ground wire connects to the body. Both suspension turrets are the same. Any ideas how much the welding for this in the engine bay and that on the rear arch would be? All depends on far it extends when cleaned back but it looks quite localised to me - I would have thought that you are £150 in as a minimum but probably £300 as a maximum - its all dependent upon how much work is involved and sometimes you just cant tell until get into it - I would question the quality of what you are getting for anything less in price than the £150 I have stated - some places are very cheap and turn out decent work then again some places are expensive and turn out shocking work - then again they will be some on here that think that £50 for a bit of welding is expensive but you do get for what you pay for - why not try a couple of local places and see where you get to price wise
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 15, 2020 18:26:35 GMT by Deleted
|
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2020 18:39:10 GMT
|
I'd say thats pretty close to scrapping the car and getting another. An 04 Yaris is probably only worth £300?
|
|
|
|
mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,969
Club RR Member Number: 77
|
Body & Paint Threadmk2cossie
@mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member 77
|
Apr 15, 2020 19:19:34 GMT
|
I'd say thats pretty close to scrapping the car and getting another. An 04 Yaris is probably only worth £300? Unfortunately this man speaketh the truth. If that is what the easily seen parts are like, underneath will be worse I fear
|
|
|
|
|