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Apr 30, 2017 17:43:45 GMT
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fitted an electronic ignition kit from 'powerspark' and the fulvia started first time and seemed great. The fueling trouble I had seemed to be sorted as I cleaned out the whole fuel system. Set the valve tappets and went for a run. It ran really nice but now I cant start the car. It started to have a few troubles with running fast and idleing running badly by running fast for no reason then I fiddled a bit with the slow running and the sycronisation screw for the twin carbs. No good set them back to what they were .Now it will not start. Anyone else had trouble with hot starting problems with electronic ignition?
I feel like going back to points and I didnt have any trouble like this. Any help?
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fulvia series 1 1200. rolling restoration
fulvia series 1 1300. definitely in bits
golf Mk4 v6 4motion. weekend fun
T4 transporter. daily
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Apr 30, 2017 18:03:35 GMT
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Don't be fooled by the obvious... If you are getting good spark and your timing is set correctly then it's likely not the electronic ignition. Could be clogged up carb from cleaning out your fuel system.
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Last Edit: May 1, 2017 7:58:20 GMT by fad
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It was clogged up carbs and fuel starvation. Cheers for your help
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fulvia series 1 1200. rolling restoration
fulvia series 1 1300. definitely in bits
golf Mk4 v6 4motion. weekend fun
T4 transporter. daily
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^ as above, check for a spark (I normally pull the center "king" lead from the distibutor leave other end attached to the coil, rest the free end near the engine and turn the motor over on the starter - watch for a spark from the lead to the engine block) Does the new ignition need a ballast-coil or non-ballast-coil? ( maybe the coil is fine for points but not for your new setup?) Just a thought ... I try to make 1 change at a time, then it's easier to guess what's stopped it working  |
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^ as above, check for a spark (I normally pull the center "king" lead from the distibutor leave other end attached to the coil, rest the free end near the engine and turn the motor over on the starter - watch for a spark from the lead to the engine block) Does the new ignition need a ballast-coil or non-ballast-coil? ( maybe the coil is fine for points but not for your new setup?) Just a thought ... I try to make 1 change at a time, then it's easier to guess what's stopped it working I think you may have a point with the coil. ?? its a non ballast I think but maybe I need something with a bit more oommph than the one on the car? |
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fulvia series 1 1200. rolling restoration
fulvia series 1 1300. definitely in bits
golf Mk4 v6 4motion. weekend fun
T4 transporter. daily
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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I personally would keep your old coil if it is correct. New coils IME are very iffy and even Bosch ones are not immune to the odd duff one being made. The ballast will come down to whether the car's wiring has a resistor either at the coil itself or one in the loom. In BL cars they were only introduced in the early 1970s. The idea was that the coil would have a lower resistance ; 1.5 Ohms compared to 3.0 Ohms. Why. To give better cold starting. -There will be a wire going from the starter exciter/solenoid to the coil which will effectively bypass the ballast. With a lower Ohmage the car will have a fatter spark. It can't run for too long like this otherwise the coil will get hot. -With it running the ballast will be used again for normal running. Hopefully that explains it  . As always be logical and test before buying things. With the spark for example. A rotor arm would also give the issues you have ; getting good quality ones is tricky these days. |
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Last Edit: May 6, 2017 8:42:26 GMT by ChasR
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