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Hello guys need some help, I have a 1990 merc r129 500sl, which has stood for a good few years, the temp reaches 100+ on stand still and driving it comes down, I have tested the viscous fan by sticking a rolled up cardboard whilst running and it pushes the cardboard away without stopping, I removed the thermostat And it looked rather rusty I did put it in to a pan and put it on the cooker and it did open when waster was boiling, I ran my hand over the radiator and it was warm all over and the bottom and top hose seem hot, now I did flush the system with water and it seems clear no bits of Rust or dark water, but someone suggested holts speed flush, now would this be ok or is it just not worth it if the water runs clear, also one of my mates used a coolant flush on his old merc and it ended up causing more problems with radiator, I have ordered a new thermostat and new anti freeze with de-ionized water so I'm hoping it be ok but if you guys have any suggestions it be great also if you guy think the flush is ok to do TIA
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If the rad is hot all over I would think that there is little point in using a flush, there's obviously good flow through it. I would do as you are, replace thermostat and try again. There is a bit of kit which will tell you if there is any exhaust gas in the coolant (not sure what it is, never used it) but if you suspected any HG issues you'd probably be beter off with a compression test.
I've had stats which appeared fine on test but were either too slow or not working under pressure significantly to cause problems. HTH
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,637
Club RR Member Number: 225
Member is Online
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Few questions about cooling !!ChrisT
@christ
Club Retro Rides Member 225
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Is the temp gauge reading right?
Could just be the sender unit or the power to the gauge giving you a higher reading. I know Mantas suffer from voltage regulator failure so the gauges read wrongly.....
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Is the temp gauge reading right? Could just be the sender unit or the power to the gauge giving you a higher reading. I know Mantas suffer from voltage regulator failure so the gauges read wrongly..... Hi, yes, Senders and gauges are not precision instruments. So try an infra red thermometer to check the temperatures and check for hot and cold spots on the rad, I know you've felt it with your hand but they can feel hot all over because they conduct heat well. Colin |
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Thanks for the reply guys, the car isnt loosing water and no mayo in the oil cap or signs of oil and water mixed, I have removed the thermostat but the temp still climbing, I left the expansion tank cap off and the water is bubbling like mad and bubbling out the expansion tank, really don't know what it could be, the car was previously owned by a very nutty driver who did push it to its limits and then the belt tensioner went so replaced that and its had this heat problem its been bleed and still nothing, I'm thinking how to test the water pump, the viscose fan seems ok I have rolled some cardboard up and tryed stopping it but still carried on pushing the cardboard away, its getting confusing why its doing this
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Ok guys right I had the car started and bleed valve off and kept pouring water in the expansion tank after half hour I out the bleed screw on slightly but still loose enuf for water to dribble out when I did this I had a few air bubbles but don't know if it was just the water bubbling any ways after the temp reached 100 degrees the expansion tank started to gurgle and splutter and no water coming through the bleed valve so then I undone the bleed valve and all I got was steam and loads of it, the expansion tank just kept gurgling and and steam kept coming really don't know what it could be any help some say it could be rad but the water was running fine through it then as it reached 100 it started to gurgle and steam all help appriciated
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,192
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Few questions about cooling !!ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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What kind of radiator is it? Where are the tanks on it? Does it flow from side to side or from top to bottom?
If the coolant is dirty and rusty in there I'd say your rad is toast despite being warm all over.
But if it were me I'd do the following:
1) Change the thermostat ; I'd personally go genuine here or get whoever makes the original one from elsewhere : it may be Wahler :I've never had an issue with a genuine item but I have with others on many occasions.
2) Check for water flow ; If it's not flowing around your water pump is probably shot
3) Rad swap ; change it if the above doesn't fix it ; most old cars benefit from a new rad IME anyway ; even cleanish rads aren't as efficient as they once were.
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Jul 10, 2017 20:34:39 GMT
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Genuine thermostat from Mercedes has been bought but the old one is opening and closing fine, also now I'm running the car without a thermostat so it should still be getting hot because of the stat, the expansion tank is located on the right hand side of the car an feeds on to The rad from a quater way of the bottom of the right side the water is not rusty and the radiator has been flush like I put water from top hose and it comes clear from the bottom, also how to I test for a water pump.? Thanks in advance
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Jul 11, 2017 10:25:09 GMT
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Running some engines without a stat can cause localised overheating whilst other parts of the engines stay cool - some systems rely on the stat to regulate flow to ensure it is even across the block. So I'm usually a bit wary of running without the stat fitted. If it's opening then removing it won't offer any benefit.
I had something similar a while back and having tried all else resorted to a flushing agent. Before that water from hosepipes ran through the block and rad with no problem so I didn't think a flush would make any difference - wrong! A load of curse word came out - and of course then promptly blocked the radiator.
I tried the usual tricks to clear the rad but flow must have always been restricted as fitting a replacement rad made it run cooler than it had in years.
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Jul 11, 2017 18:59:25 GMT
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I see , but is there anything else I could try to see if the head is blown , the normal signs like mayo in the cap and water from the exhaust and the car loosing water ain't there so is there anything else I could try, don't know if it true but is there a liquid that you can use to test is blown
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Jul 12, 2017 14:57:36 GMT
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You could have exhaust gases getting into the water but not water into the oil if the Hg has given up, so may be no mayo, could explain the bubbling, have you got a compression tester? If the car has been ragged stupid with no attention to maintenance then I suspect there may be underlying faults, sorry to be the harbinger of doom!
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Jul 15, 2017 22:09:20 GMT
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Thanks comfort, no I don't have a compression tester, do you know where no could get one from ? Lol I just want to get to the bottom of it and get it done and on the road
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They're pretty cheap on the bay of flea, or if you've got a good local motorfactors they should be able to help, cheap ones tend not to be too accurate, but at this stage I'd be looking to see if all the cyls read fairly equally, or whether one or more were low
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