Why do people still make copper brake lines....

[tristanh]

.....when cupronickel/Cunifer is pretty much the same price, almost as easily to flare, doesn't corrode, is very hard to kink, forms easily by hand and is so much stronger?

[fad]

Because old skool, init?

Seriously though, pass. Creatures of habit?

[ChasR]

I've had brake lines before with surface rust. Despite me cleaning and greasing them and then freeing off the semi seized unions I have yet to break a stock steel line.

Copper lines that are a few years old however I've never had any luck; The pipes has always twisted/snapped with barely any pressure from a spanner on the union. My 205 GTI ended up have its 2 year old rear brake lines changed because the unions/pipe were too brittle ; a shame as they cost the PO around a couple of hundred quid to have made and fitted by the garage!

I personally don't know why people use Copper. It work hardens and was curse word when it was new and still is. As you say, Kunifer is now the same money.

[gtviva]

on a different note you can buy brass fittings for the ends rather than the steel ones which like you say always seem to rust onto the pipes!

[porsche944]

Had a variety of flaring tools over the years & always used copper with brass ends to make new brake pipes. Never had an issue in any way. Certainly no problems with work hardening, although I've always clipped & tied them up properly.The burst level of 3/16" copper is way in excess of peak brake pressures so no issue there.

[droopsnoot]

I was worrying about the new copper brake lines I've just fitted on my project until the post above arrived. I've always used the brass fittings, because why on earth would you source copper for the pipes but then use steel for the fittings, other than they're much easier to get? But I did read somewhere that copper needs more support, so I've put more clips on that it would originally have had. It's not been on the road anywhere near long enough to know if it was a bad decision, but then a mate in the garage trade also always makes them from copper. The reason I steered clear of Kunifer this time was because I had some trouble getting it to grip in the flaring tool last time.

My only worry now is whether there will be electrolytic corrosion between the brass fittings and the steel master cylinder, wheel cylinders and calipers. There's probably a way to find out.

[welshpug]

Do you mean the yellow zinc passivated steel ones? never seen brass used.

my preference is oem steel fittings, they are much more corrosion resistant than the cheap motorfactor ones, a bit of grease also helps massively, which is something most people don't seem to bother with at all.

[gtviva]

Nope not plated steel they are turned from solid brass, never had one seize yet!

[porsche944]

Yup brass fittings, I have bought them from here in the past although these days there are other sources.
www.automec.co.uk/collections/brass-fittings
I use a proper pipe bender as well, although if needed have used paint cans & bits of pipe if I need a different radius.

[tristanh]

Good link. I plan on doing stainless lines on my mk1 when I get that far.

I bought a proper heavy duty sykes pickavant flaring tool a few years ago as I was struggling to do oem steel lines, and I was doing a LOT in work. goo.gl/images/XbSfp1

I've often used a large socket for a radius too, especially a 3/4 with a groove around it on the square end.

[droopsnoot]

Oh, that's similar to my SP flaring tool, but instead of the rotary thing on the top for the male part of the die, mine has removable sections, probably an older version.

On the subject of pipe bending, does anyone have advice on bending 1/2" copper pipe? The tank breather on mine is a steel pipe that I've de-rusted, but it's coming through again. I had a go with a piece of the above but it just kinks, but an internal spring sounds as if it would get stuck as it's quite a tight radius - it's like a shepherd's crook shape to just provide a high point. Is the only option heat?

[miker33]

I've done some pretty tight bends with the spring method, it is usually pullable with some strong force as that constrains the spring diameter so it should pull through (might be the end of the spring though after one use due to stretching beyond it's tolerance and not returning to shape).

Other option maybe to use longer tube than required, fill tightly with fine sand, seal the ends with copper seal caps (or crimp down the ends) soldered on and then bend. Chop off ends, empty sand, wash out any debris and sorted.

[sarkie83]

Dec 19, 2017 11:13:04 GMT welshpug said:

Do you mean the yellow zinc passivated steel ones? never seen brass used.

my preference is oem steel fittings, they are much more corrosion resistant than the cheap motorfactor ones, a bit of grease also helps massively, which is something most people don't seem to bother with at all.

agreed - always do this on every car I have. No matter how good general rust proofing has got - these always gives out even on relatively new cars. Bit of the oily stuff keeps them in good condition & stops the hassle of having to replace them all..