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Aug 29, 2019 18:11:03 GMT
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Last Edit: Aug 29, 2019 18:20:03 GMT by Deleted
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Aug 29, 2019 18:26:54 GMT
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fantastic!
i'm interested how you dealt with the gouges in the (ABS?) plastic bumpers.
p.s i remember looking into one of those sprayable seam sealant guns, eek! i was hoping a roller might get me there instead lol
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Aug 29, 2019 18:38:02 GMT
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Aug 29, 2019 18:43:52 GMT
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Darren - The light gouges were simply prepped and skimmed over with a suitable filler - the cracks were rebonded with a specialist 2 pack adhesive - but this is readily available thanks for the reply normal body filler ? or is there a specialist flexible one?
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Aug 29, 2019 18:46:32 GMT
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Nice! Please tell me about the inverter dent puller. thanks Great piece of kit that I would not be without - however - it's no cheap investment - I think mine was circa £800 with some discount and the vat (its paid for itself several times over) - there are cheaper alternatives out there (but not has good) - do you have a job in mind for one ?? - I maybe able to suggest a similar / alternative method if you can advise on what you have planned - link to the suppliers website / video below www.power-tec.co.uk/product/92436
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Last Edit: Aug 29, 2019 18:49:36 GMT by Deleted
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Aug 29, 2019 18:48:41 GMT
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Darren - The light gouges were simply prepped and skimmed over with a suitable filler - the cracks were rebonded with a specialist 2 pack adhesive - but this is readily available thanks for the reply normal body filler ? or is there a specialist flexible one? You need a good quality one that is suitable for use with plastics - that said most decent body fillers are suitable for all types of substrates - for reference I used U Pols 'Fantastic'
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MiataMark
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,961
Club RR Member Number: 29
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Aug 29, 2019 20:14:05 GMT
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[ Mark - What you doing with the bumper is more than through enough to achieve a decent finish - the blistering is only within the repaint and not the original factory finish so no need to go to bare metal other than problem areas such has rust - a good 2 pack primer over the top of your prep should yield decent results - my top tips are stick with it - prep / rubbing down are the worlds most boring tasks - but poor prep shows right through paint of any type / quality like a sore thumb - I would also strip has much has you can in order to afford getting the paint behind trim rather than just masking it up too - you are very welcome to pop over anytime if you want to talk the process through in more detail - Chris Thanks. I intend to take the front and back bumpers off for repaint and remove as much trim as possible. For other seals lift them with some wire under the seal (as on another thread). Would be great to come over I'll PM you when I've got some free days, bit busy at the moment. Mark
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1990 Mazda MX-52012 BMW 118i (170bhp) - white appliance 2011 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4 2003 Land Rover Discovery II TD52007 Alfa Romeo 159 Sportwagon JTDm
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scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
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Aug 29, 2019 21:43:17 GMT
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Given the price of s/h panels for these, would it be an option to buy some decent ones in the right colour - or as better starting points if it’s getting a full repaint?
Edit for clarity, the miata not the TT 😀
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Last Edit: Aug 29, 2019 21:45:00 GMT by scimjim
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jpsmit
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,255
Member is Online
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jpsmit
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,255
Member is Online
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I suspect most if not all I can do with a hammer and dollies but ..... sigh ...... electric tools.
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I suspect most if not all I can do with a hammer and dollies but ..... sigh ...... electric tools. Once you are ready and have the area's prepped that you want to pull - send me a pm - you are welcome to loan my puller if it will help you - I don't use it often but its such a useful piece of kit for accessing the areas that you cant get to with the hammer & dolly
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Last Edit: Aug 30, 2019 15:26:09 GMT by Deleted
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Aug 30, 2019 14:32:21 GMT
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Chris - thanks the latest updates, I always enjoy your projects. The TT is particularly interesting as it would be considered modern by a lot of folk on here but as you say, is a fast appreciating classic. Although not to everyone's taste (including my own when new), the design and build techniques were quite revolutionary. The repairs are also very useful and can be applied by a lot of people to their more daily runners, such as the bumper cone repairs and sills.
I have a question for you as I appreciate your advice but apologies it isn't really related to your current projects. I have searched RR and Google but got a whole range of answers. I want to know what you would recommend for painting suspension components and ancillary parts in the dirty underside areas of a car. Quite a few forums still love things like Hammerite or POR 15 but others suggest Epoxy Mastic and even marine paints. Some say to use primer and some not. Some say single coat, others not.
This question is for my old VW Scirocco i'm rebuilding but relates to a thread i started questioning how modern cars deteriorate in different ways to old cars. A lot of modern cars still have good bodywork and mechanicals 10 years old, but then have very rusty suspension and brackets and make repairs very difficult. More expensive models such as the TT have alloy suspension parts. It all makes it interesting to adapt restoration techniques and repairs.
Anyway, thanks for your time reading this and appreciate any advice.
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jpsmit
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,255
Member is Online
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Aug 30, 2019 20:16:30 GMT
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I suspect most if not all I can do with a hammer and dollies but ..... sigh ...... electric tools. Once you are ready and have the area's prepped that you want to pull - send me a pm - you are welcome to loan my puller if it will help you - I don't use it often but its such a useful piece of kit for accessing the areas that you cant get to with the hammer & dolly That is an unbelieveably kind offer, thank you! Sadly by the time I have bought my ticket from Toronto, flown to England and figured out where you are, the 'economy of borrowing' is likely shot. OTOH it might still be worth it just to buy you a beer and say in person how much I enjoy your posts. Cheers!
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npp
Part of things
Posts: 121
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Aug 30, 2019 21:18:35 GMT
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I am intrigued by this as I am currently scratching my head about re-attaching an exhaust manifold heat shield to the bulkhead of my Elise. The mounting has fallen off - looks like it was glued on to the bulkhead with some kind of blackish goo. Do I have any chance of finding a product to stick it back on with, or do I have to bodge up a bracket (it would be a very bad bodge)? EDIT: the quote doesn't show up - what I quoted from your earlier post was this: "there are several different adhesives available including things like panel bond (stronger than a welded process) for bonded body panels & skins"
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Last Edit: Aug 30, 2019 21:21:15 GMT by npp
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Once you are ready and have the area's prepped that you want to pull - send me a pm - you are welcome to loan my puller if it will help you - I don't use it often but its such a useful piece of kit for accessing the areas that you cant get to with the hammer & dolly That is an unbelieveably kind offer, thank you! Sadly by the time I have bought my ticket from Toronto, flown to England and figured out where you are, the 'economy of borrowing' is likely shot. OTOH it might still be worth it just to buy you a beer and say in person how much I enjoy your posts. Cheers! Ho its such a unbelievably small world - my other half was born in Montreal, has lived in the UK for 30 years now but we fly into Toronto every few years to visit her sister & niece who reside in London, Ontario - Toronto is one of our favourite city's in the world
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Last Edit: Aug 31, 2019 8:48:52 GMT by Deleted
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I am intrigued by this as I am currently scratching my head about re-attaching an exhaust manifold heat shield to the bulkhead of my Elise. The mounting has fallen off - looks like it was glued on to the bulkhead with some kind of blackish goo. Do I have any chance of finding a product to stick it back on with, or do I have to bodge up a bracket (it would be a very bad bodge)? EDIT: the quote doesn't show up - what I quoted from your earlier post was this: "there are several different adhesives available including things like panel bond (stronger than a welded process) for bonded body panels & skins" Its certainly going to be a structural adhesive - I would be very surprised if the one quoted in the thread above when responding to darrenh would not work for you
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Chris - thanks the latest updates, I always enjoy your projects. The TT is particularly interesting as it would be considered modern by a lot of folk on here but as you say, is a fast appreciating classic. Although not to everyone's taste (including my own when new), the design and build techniques were quite revolutionary. The repairs are also very useful and can be applied by a lot of people to their more daily runners, such as the bumper cone repairs and sills. I have a question for you as I appreciate your advice but apologies it isn't really related to your current projects. I have searched RR and Google but got a whole range of answers. I want to know what you would recommend for painting suspension components and ancillary parts in the dirty underside areas of a car. Quite a few forums still love things like Hammerite or POR 15 but others suggest Epoxy Mastic and even marine paints. Some say to use primer and some not. Some say single coat, others not. This question is for my old VW Scirocco i'm rebuilding but relates to a thread i started questioning how modern cars deteriorate in different ways to old cars. A lot of modern cars still have good bodywork and mechanicals 10 years old, but then have very rusty suspension and brackets and make repairs very difficult. More expensive models such as the TT have alloy suspension parts. It all makes it interesting to adapt restoration techniques and repairs. Anyway, thanks for your time reading this and appreciate any advice. Personally I would not recommend Epoxy Mastics or POR 15 for your task - these set to a hard surface / shell finish (has does Hammerite) - when impacted by stone chips or debris the surface cracks allowing water to enter - the surface coating then acts has a capillary and the water travels under the paint surface and the rust issues continue. I would clean up / degrease the components and remove any loose rust has you can through abrasion / wire brush etc (I am assuming most of the components are still affixed to the car / not loose and you don't have access to a blasting cabinet) - I would treat with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/hydrate-80 Once dry you need to paint it with a suitable surface coating - Frosts Chassis Black is very good - available in either gloss or satin and either by the can or in aerosol format (unfortunately their website was down so I cant paste the links) - Frosts products are not cheap but they are good
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Last Edit: Aug 31, 2019 9:11:40 GMT by Deleted
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npp
Part of things
Posts: 121
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I am intrigued by this as I am currently scratching my head about re-attaching an exhaust manifold heat shield to the bulkhead of my Elise. The mounting has fallen off - looks like it was glued on to the bulkhead with some kind of blackish goo. Do I have any chance of finding a product to stick it back on with, or do I have to bodge up a bracket (it would be a very bad bodge)? EDIT: the quote doesn't show up - what I quoted from your earlier post was this: "there are several different adhesives available including things like panel bond (stronger than a welded process) for bonded body panels & skins" Its certainly going to be a structural adhesive - I would be very surprised if the one quoted in the thread above when responding to darrenh would not work for you thanks! There's lots of interesting stuff on that supplier's site!
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Aug 31, 2019 13:00:57 GMT
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I have found the help given by the FastMovers staff to be first rate. If you are not sure of the best product, drop them an email. I am currently testing their 'metal panel bond 20' 'fmt6390' to see if it suits my current job, results are looking very promising.
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Aug 31, 2019 13:22:26 GMT
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Fast Mover stock a whole range of bodyshop consumables & tools - some of it is a little on the expensive side but the majority is competitively priced - their website is also good for looking up / researching things that you are unsure of or even what its called - nothing worse than going to a trade counter and attempting to describe something that you need that you don't know the name or brand of - especially when said trade counter is full of other customers that are prepared to have a laugh at your own expense whilst the plonker behind the counter insists on making a idiot out of you in the front of others rather than being helpful (Alternatively you can ask that Grumpy bloke on Retro Rides who will attempt to give you a straight answer)
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